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Tamiya TRF415

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Old 12-29-2004, 10:29 PM
  #6016  
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Originally posted by Neil Rabara
I'm missing the A1 part of the differential. The plastic piece that the diff nut sets into. Is that part hiding somewhere on a parts tree, or was it suppose to be in the same bag as the differential?
Ahh comeon Neil, havent you ever built a Tamiya kit before, you should know that half the pieces in the kit will be in the last bag you expect That one, however, is right with the front bumper/body posts.
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Old 12-29-2004, 10:29 PM
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Originally posted by forty6
It's in the bumper holder/body post parts tree if I am not mistaken.
Thanks, I'll check it out.
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Old 12-29-2004, 10:30 PM
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I finally got a really dialed setup for SoCal in modified, gonna try a couple more things and see if I can get it even better, it was extremely impressive so far though
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Old 12-30-2004, 04:02 AM
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Originally posted by Arun
My laps were quicker overall after the change, and my best lap improved by two tenths.

Rear toe-1.5 degrees (al. 1deg upright with 1C-1D blocks)

My front roll centers are...well...interesting.
I have a lowered ballstud in the upper-outer position (foam tire clearance). I have a 1mm shim under the upper-inner ballstud.
On the bottom, I have flipped the roll center blocks, ground the area where the screw normally protrudes flat as I described above, and placed 4mm of shims underneath. This, in effect, lowers the pivot point by 1mm, giving the car more steering. My front-rear block is a 1A (which, when flipped, becomes a bridge), and my front-front block is a 1B.
This 1A-1B front combo also gives .5deg of in-board toe out, helping the car react quicker into and out of a corner.

This picture should clear up any confusion.
Thanks for the pic, it clears up (in my mind at least) what everyone has been talking about, with reagrds to flipping the blocks.
Just a few questions for you though.
1) what screw length are you using to hold the blocks in?
2) have you had any problems with blocks bending when set like this? I had a couple of blocks bend big time on the rear when running 1mm shims underneath, hence why i invested in a set of Evo4 blocks for such situations.
3) also whoose diff pulley is that mounted on your car??

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Old 12-30-2004, 04:06 AM
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Originally posted by Jack Smash
I've been thinking about getting a 415 but thought the setup sheet could be cleaned up a bit for us non-japanese speaking drivers.

Check it out.

http://209.151.201.222/smash/trf415lw.pdf
hey jack, I have a couple of versions of an english worded setup sheet on the website in my sig. They make it much easier to note down setups on, as I'm sure your finding

And on that point, can i just mention again, if anyone has a setup they want to be posted, I'm more than happy to place them onto my site. Just send me the details of the setup (or an image of it), and I'll put it up.

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Old 12-30-2004, 11:08 AM
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Originally posted by Neil Rabara
I'm missing the A1 part of the differential. The plastic piece that the diff nut sets into. Is that part hiding somewhere on a parts tree, or was it suppose to be in the same bag as the differential?
Neil, if you don't want a flexy nut holder try using the holder from 50877 TA04 Ball Differential Pulley parts. It'll let you really crank down on the diff screw without the plastic bit boogering on you.
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Old 12-30-2004, 11:26 AM
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Originally posted by BlackKat
Thanks, I noticed that but was wondering what the change did in the car's handling?
Can't remember which one is which, but basically the bow setup gives a much higher roll centre, thus giving less steering. It also gives a bit more bump steer than if you swap them, adding a bit of off power steering and on power stability (but less mid-corner steering). If you decide to try swapping them, beware of your ride height as it will change quite a lot, and make sure the rim won't rub the upper ball cup (24mm won't but 26mm+ will).
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Old 12-30-2004, 11:46 AM
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I just tried posting my SoCal setup sheet, but it's about 3 times too big, anyone that wants it, PM me with your e-mail address. It's for mod on high bite asphault.
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Old 12-30-2004, 12:07 PM
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So what servo is everyone running. Time to upgrade. Randy it looks like yours is the 9550. Do you know the specs, i cant seem to find anything on Futaba.
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Old 12-30-2004, 12:09 PM
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Originally posted by tcmerf
So what servo is everyone running. Time to upgrade. Randy it looks like yours is the 9550. Do you know the specs, i cant seem to find anything on Futaba.
I dont remember the specs off it, propably a .11 or .12 transit, 80oz of torque, more than enough for a sedan.
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Old 12-30-2004, 12:24 PM
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Originally posted by Jack Smash
I've been thinking about getting a 415 but thought the setup sheet could be cleaned up a bit for us non-japanese speaking drivers.

Check it out.

http://209.151.201.222/smash/trf415lw.pdf
could be cleaned up? let me know how. im the one that modified that set up sheet. i can make some fixes for you. let me know. (i decided to keep the japanese on there, just in case Tamiya Japan wanted to use it)
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Old 12-30-2004, 12:37 PM
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Actually, I posted the wrong one. I made an english only version that but posted the original. I will post the correct one when I get home tonight.
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Old 12-30-2004, 02:08 PM
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Is there a secret to keeping the diff tight? I usually run it really loose so I dont have any problem, but I tried it tighter on Tuesday and liked it, but had to readjust the tension every couple runs.
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Old 12-30-2004, 02:32 PM
  #6029  
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tcmurf, try this: http://www.futabarc.com
Randy's specs are close, .11sec/83oz It's a great servo. I'm using one, to get more space for rest of electronics, but once I switched to KO302 and VFS-1, now I have about 1/2" gap infront of the motor If space isn't an issue, 9451 is better servo though. BTW.. GreatPlanes (sole distributor for Futaba) has been having sale on 9550 to dealers at $53.00


Randy, if you used the kit diff plastic nut holder, you might have stripped it. Use the part rtypec recommended, or quick cheap fix is take a little piece of paper, lay it flat on the top of the nutholder, then put the nut in, so paper is jammed inbetween nut and the nutholder. That should fix it permanently. The soft plastic gives out easy, had same problem on my diff. After 2 rebuilds, it's still working great.

Last edited by razzo; 12-30-2004 at 02:40 PM.
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Old 12-30-2004, 02:50 PM
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I glued the nut into the cup when I built it, and it doesnt slip when I try to tighten or loosen it, so that isnt the problem. My diff is actually loosening as I run.
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