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Old 12-30-2004, 02:53 PM   #6031
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It's those crazy 6 turn motors we send you randy...... lol. I never remember having that problem at nationals or when I had my evo 3........

-Korey
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Old 12-30-2004, 03:00 PM   #6032
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If your diff is loosening during the run, I'm guessing your nylon lock on the nuts shot?
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Old 12-30-2004, 03:55 PM   #6033
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sushi Boy
It's those crazy 6 turn motors we send you randy...... lol. I never remember having that problem at nationals or when I had my evo 3........

-Korey
I know they are a part of the problem, I'll figure it out, maybe backup the threads with some CA glue.

PM me with your e-mail addy and I'll send you that setup sheet.
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Old 12-30-2004, 04:32 PM   #6034
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Quote:
Originally posted by TryHard
Thanks for the pic, it clears up (in my mind at least) what everyone has been talking about, with reagrds to flipping the blocks.
Just a few questions for you though.
1) what screw length are you using to hold the blocks in?
2) have you had any problems with blocks bending when set like this? I had a couple of blocks bend big time on the rear when running 1mm shims underneath, hence why i invested in a set of Evo4 blocks for such situations.
3) also whoose diff pulley is that mounted on your car??

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1) When I built the car for the first time, I replaced all the black screws with stainless steel screws, which happened to be a little longer. The actual length is just over 10mm.

2) ...not yet (knock on wood). They are undoubtedly more vulnerable this way, though. The effect on the car's handling is well worth any risk as far as I am concerned.

3) Actually, the diff pulley is completely stock; it is the outdrives that I modified. I filed a flat area on the diff outdrives and glued a shield on to keep carpet fibers out of my diff. The shields are not actually connected to the pulley, they just barely rub against it. The outdrives are actually modified EVOIII units. I just made another out of delrin just yesterday...here's a pic.
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Old 12-30-2004, 04:34 PM   #6035
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carpet fibres are a royal pain in the a**! I feel I'm always rebuilding diffs to clean the fibres out.
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Old 12-30-2004, 06:47 PM   #6036
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welcome to carpet racing my friend go buy youre self a set of very fine twizers (bad spelling)
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Old 12-30-2004, 08:57 PM   #6037
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Quote:
Originally posted by Arun
1) When I built the car for the first time, I replaced all the black screws with stainless steel screws, which happened to be a little longer. The actual length is just over 10mm.

2) ...not yet (knock on wood). They are undoubtedly more vulnerable this way, though. The effect on the car's handling is well worth any risk as far as I am concerned.

3) Actually, the diff pulley is completely stock; it is the outdrives that I modified. I filed a flat area on the diff outdrives and glued a shield on to keep carpet fibers out of my diff. The shields are not actually connected to the pulley, they just barely rub against it. The outdrives are actually modified EVOIII units. I just made another out of delrin just yesterday...here's a pic.
I like that diff idea, very clever. might have to look into doing that on the rear, I have a spare set of plastic outdrives I can try it on.

I've been thinking about the block flipping idea, and I can see how it works (lowering roll centre) but I wonder would it not be easier to run the 414 blocks, which i believe are 1mm lower than the 415 blocks? would this not acheive the same effect with out problems with vunerability by placing them so high on spacers?
Thats not ment as a knock to the technique, more of a general query, just to see if anyones tried the 414 blocks as well, and if so does this result in the same effect?

Anyway, time for bed methinks.
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Old 12-30-2004, 09:14 PM   #6038
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I didnt know about the 414 blocks, I ordered a spare set of blocks and I was going to have them milled down 1mm...
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Old 12-30-2004, 09:19 PM   #6039
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Quote:
Originally posted by rtypec
Neil, if you don't want a flexy nut holder try using the holder from 50877 TA04 Ball Differential Pulley parts. It'll let you really crank down on the diff screw without the plastic bit boogering on you.
Rod, did you use shims to keep the diff/front one way from moving laterally? I notice there is alot of slop side to side.
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Old 12-30-2004, 09:45 PM   #6040
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Tryhard I have used the 414 WCR block on the front of the car before I had the A bridge that Tamiya released.
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Old 12-30-2004, 09:48 PM   #6041
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Hey Neil, you gonna be up at SoCal next tuesday with the new toy?
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Old 12-31-2004, 12:02 AM   #6042
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Quote:
Originally posted by TryHard
I like that diff idea, very clever. might have to look into doing that on the rear, I have a spare set of plastic outdrives I can try it on.

I've been thinking about the block flipping idea, and I can see how it works (lowering roll centre) but I wonder would it not be easier to run the 414 blocks, which i believe are 1mm lower than the 415 blocks? would this not acheive the same effect with out problems with vunerability by placing them so high on spacers?
Thats not ment as a knock to the technique, more of a general query, just to see if anyones tried the 414 blocks as well, and if so does this result in the same effect?

Anyway, time for bed methinks.
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I put the shield on both my front and rear diffs. The plastic that I used is the "plastruct" stuff that you can find in hobby stores, and I used shoe-goo to glue them to the outdrives.

We considered the 414 blocks at first, but, as far as we knew, they did not make an A bridge. I never had a 414, so correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 12-31-2004, 12:38 AM   #6043
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Yay, I finally got my 415!!!!! Just going through it right now and seting it up for carpet.

-Korey
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Old 12-31-2004, 03:44 AM   #6044
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Quote:
Originally posted by Arun
I put the shield on both my front and rear diffs. The plastic that I used is the "plastruct" stuff that you can find in hobby stores, and I used shoe-goo to glue them to the outdrives.

We considered the 414 blocks at first, but, as far as we knew, they did not make an A bridge. I never had a 414, so correct me if I'm wrong.
Correction : the rear block on the front end of the 414M corresponds in size to the A bridge, but you will probably have to mill it down a bit to let the belt go through as it was made for an offset belt.

Last edited by TRF415boy; 12-31-2004 at 07:16 AM.
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Old 12-31-2004, 07:34 AM   #6045
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Integy shows some premade covers, but i havent used them. they show for the 414/TA04, but i figure they should fit the 415 also...

http://integy.automated-shops.com/cg...31104340702.8e
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