Viper RC -
#9181
Tech Adept
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 210
well went to LCRC this weekend and had 2 ecs issues one with my boys and one with mine. His was in his buggy it acted like it lost conection with the Reciever steering very slow and then nothing. running a futaba 3pl tried new reciever and new servo still the same.
Mine was got steering but no motor.. tried 2 other motors that i know worked and still nothing.
Mine was got steering but no motor.. tried 2 other motors that i know worked and still nothing.
My losi has done that to me a few times. If I crash or come down hard I would still have steering.
Trying to isolate it to see which part is causing it
#9182
Motorman-- probably want to turn the brake up slightly from 80 - its a personal feel, think mine was like 90.
Brake Freq - 5000hz
Dynamic Brake - Disable (use this more in on road)
Throttle Freq - 12000hz
Race Blinky mode -- no boost
Motor Direction - Normal
Motor Type - 4 pole
SBEC Voltage - 6.0v
Forward Power - 100
Reverse Power - na
Auto Power Off - off
Battery Cut Off - 12.8v
Motor Temperature Cut - 230
ESC Temperature Cut - 220
This is what I used to start, should put you in the ball park.
Brake Freq - 5000hz
Dynamic Brake - Disable (use this more in on road)
Throttle Freq - 12000hz
Race Blinky mode -- no boost
Motor Direction - Normal
Motor Type - 4 pole
SBEC Voltage - 6.0v
Forward Power - 100
Reverse Power - na
Auto Power Off - off
Battery Cut Off - 12.8v
Motor Temperature Cut - 230
ESC Temperature Cut - 220
This is what I used to start, should put you in the ball park.
Diff are
4 front 4 center 750 rear.
Worked perfectly. Thank sir
#9183
#9184
#9185
Ok maybe someone knows what's going on with my copperhead sc system. This all worked perfectly about a month and a half ago so yesterday I decide to run a second class just for the fun of it. I power up the system and touch the steering and throttle just to see if it works and all is good...Set the truck down on pit lane walk to Driverstand and nothing. I got steering but no throttle. The red and green light are on, if I try to power the system down nothing happens but the orange light is on while pressing the button. I've tried re binding the radio and re calibrator the esc but it won't even let me do that.. Any suggestions? I've used the system for my 5 year old for one short novice race day and it sat ever since.
#9186
weyant, for the first issue I have no clue. You'll need to wait for someone else to respond if they have encountered it. For the second....that sounds very much like a disconnected or bad sensor wire. Hope that helps.
#9188
The usual culprit is the sensor cable.
I actually experienced this on my brand new VTX8 during the 5th race. I thought my soldering had come undone and killed the power but I realised that there was power and steering worked. Can't quite remember what I did but throttle came back and I continued the race. Didn't get my place back but it did not affect my overall result of the day. Had it happened in two races then it would have been a pain.
Anyhow, I did try reusing the old sensor cable so I will swap it for new and have a look at the settings via the PC interface.
I actually experienced this on my brand new VTX8 during the 5th race. I thought my soldering had come undone and killed the power but I realised that there was power and steering worked. Can't quite remember what I did but throttle came back and I continued the race. Didn't get my place back but it did not affect my overall result of the day. Had it happened in two races then it would have been a pain.
Anyhow, I did try reusing the old sensor cable so I will swap it for new and have a look at the settings via the PC interface.
#9189
well I did try one sensor wire but ill try another one I have that I know works and ill see if that does it
#9190
I use a new wire to make sure. I removed my first wire before I ran the car and it was flaky and was perfect when I replaced it with a brand new one.
This time I reused the wire and it seems to be flaky on a brand new ESC so I have just swapped it over for a new one. If it still does it, something else is up, but we'll see in two weeks.
This time I reused the wire and it seems to be flaky on a brand new ESC so I have just swapped it over for a new one. If it still does it, something else is up, but we'll see in two weeks.
#9191
Tech Adept
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 210
It did happen to me in my losi though with a castle setup now thinking about it. After it happened with the viper in there I put a glitch buster cap but it did it again. However I switched out the battery and it didnt happen anymore throughout the night. So perhaps a bad lipo or something?
#9192
Typically if a part of the system fails the end result is that you still have power through the receiver - so the servo works, but the motor will not run. Some options to try:
With VTX (sensored systems)
- sensor wire
- different motor
- check calibration
- confirm all solder joints (actually re-flow the solder)
- make sure capacitor on esc are ok
With Copperhead
- check bullet connectors (loose or arching condition)
- check calibration
- different motor
If you have been running the system (or ran the system previous), did anything strange happen in previous runs? What type of temperature did you record after the runs (more than just it didn't "feel" hot)? How long did you run? All these things make a difference. If the system work, then suddenly it doesn't -- something happen, somewhere in the mix.
With VTX (sensored systems)
- sensor wire
- different motor
- check calibration
- confirm all solder joints (actually re-flow the solder)
- make sure capacitor on esc are ok
With Copperhead
- check bullet connectors (loose or arching condition)
- check calibration
- different motor
If you have been running the system (or ran the system previous), did anything strange happen in previous runs? What type of temperature did you record after the runs (more than just it didn't "feel" hot)? How long did you run? All these things make a difference. If the system work, then suddenly it doesn't -- something happen, somewhere in the mix.
#9194
If you are running and "crash hard" or "land hard" off of jump - there could be a large amp spike, dropping the battery below LVC. They system will reset. Meaning it will go through the start up sequence again, takes 5-10 seconds to do that. That is a battery issue, the battery (or a cell with in it) not able to hold adequate voltage through the spike. Even thought that spike is only a few milliseconds at most.



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