I finally got my kit built last week, and when I hooked everything up, my steering is way out of whack, and the motor does not turn the belt.

So I disassembled the front enough to get to my steering servo, and fix the alignment on the servo.

Do I need to disassemble the whole front end and use the alignment tool to get the servo aligned back on the chassis again? I removed the servo to fix the steering alignment.

I am hoping that I tightened things too much on the belt and rear gears. I know that the motor works, because after I removed the belt, the motor did turn the gears.

I was so fustrated that I went out and bought the rtr Racers Edge Pro2 to get some driving in. The SC10 4x4 is my first RC vehicle, and I have been learning as I go. I can't wait to drive it for the first time. I had a blast on the Pro2, so I know the SC is going be more fun.

sorry am mia here. got to fine a new place to live. and i got a new losi truggy

Don't believe storing the car on the wheels & just sitting warps the arms, rather its the hard landings that is bending the arms ...

No. Just have the servo horn off. Turn your radio on and make sure your Radio has the steering centred.

Then put the steering horn on straight up and down. Test your steering left and right... If it's set right... put some lock tight on the servo horn screw and tighten down the screw for the horn. Re-assemble truck. Also make sure you set your end points on your radio so that the servo isn't forcing past it's reach.

HI

Just got the FT kit yesterday, and found that a wrong part was given, instead of the steering bell crank, I got 2 of the servo alignment tool.

Just wanted to is am I the first one that lucky?

Cheers

Maybe as far as getting 2 servo alignments, but several kits have been known to be missing parts etc, just call AE and talk to Chris Jaroz he'll send you out the part you need right away.....

I will racing at Dave's RC Tracks in Hubbard, OR if the weather stays nice on Sunday.

Bummer, was looking forward to you taking a look at the truck. I am interested in running at Dave's as well, but Sundays are a no-go, church, family time, etc...

Kev

Love the new body!

check the 3 bolts that hold the gearbox together on both the front and the back. If your back turns OK, but the front is too tight, it will bind up the whole works. Also, if BOTH front and back are a LITTLE too tight, the combination of that, plus a tight belt could be the difference between the motor turning everything when the belt is removed (only with the extra resistance of the rear gearbox) and binding up entirely.

Without the belt, you can spin the spur gear by hand, and spin the front pulley by hand, and the wheels turn easily, you probably just had the belt too tight.

Anyone out there have feedback on the panther ratlers (traction foams ect.)?

My sponsor carries them now....

They work great! Either their new Orange inserts or the AKA reds are a little softer if you need that. I normally like the supersoft compound for wet to dry clay. They have a new gold compound too but I have not tested that one yet.

I thought I would try the soft compound for trcr

Not to disagree with Jimmy, but that's not enough with these arms. I already store my chassis with the tires off (the only time they ever have tires on them is at the track), but after I destroyed my third set of arms I took the extra step to physically remove the shocks off the chassis. Same result.

Certainly you can wreck a set of arms storing the car on the tires, particularly on a hot day.

Yeah the way that track is soft(red) or gold should be best. Clay(pink) or Super Soft(white) would bald in a few runs.

Sorry, but no. The warping is not acceptable, especially not as quickly as this happens.. my Traxxas Slash is running the same RPM arms I got 3 years ago and they are not warped one bit, my E-Revo is standing on stock arms that survived huge jumps and crashes without any deformation, etc.
In fact, I haven't seen this issue on any truck at our track either, or heard about it in forums aside from the SC10 4x4 arms.