5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
04-18-2012 | 02:32 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 289
From: SoCal
The stock arms are softer and more flexible.
I need to start flipping the arms after every race night as Craig suggested to minimize the warping. The constant force of the shock on the front part of the arm is causing it to warp.
04-18-2012 | 02:44 PM
But we shouldn't have to flip them! I came from 1/8 scale nitro, and it didn't seem to be much of a problem. Losi 8 has been known to warp, but never saw other cars with the problem. Any one have to swap you AE RC8 arms?
04-18-2012 | 02:45 PM
I found that one under each gear was too loose, and 2 under each gear was too tight. If I put one under one side, and 2 under the other, it seemed just right. (I feel like I'm reading Goldilocks and the three bears to my 4 yr old!)
Since I don't like the idea of uneven shimming (not sure why...I just don't!) I decided to try to find some 0.3mm shims. Xray has some 5x15x0.3mm "washers" that fit perfectly, and with the extra outer diameter, they seem to allow less play too! Zero parasitic drag.
That's what I've been running, and 3 rebuilds later, the Xray washers are still in perfect shape.
04-18-2012 | 03:28 PM
I agree, but we do. You have three options:
1. Remove and flip the arms once a race day.
2. Don't and replace them every two race days.
3. Don't run the truck, or figure out how to wheel it with all the bound up hinge pins.
It sucks but it is what it is.
1. Remove and flip the arms once a race day.
2. Don't and replace them every two race days.
3. Don't run the truck, or figure out how to wheel it with all the bound up hinge pins.
It sucks but it is what it is.
04-18-2012 | 03:30 PM
Anyone try these out? I just ordered their 6 pack special along with a bearing kit for my sc10, can't wait to try them out........
http://www.avidrc.com/product/2/whee...-B-wheels.html
http://www.avidrc.com/product/2/whee...-B-wheels.html
04-18-2012 | 03:39 PM
I accidentally quoted the wrong post (serves me right for screwing around on my smart phone), but I saw that one too. Last time I saw that many holes I was draining pasta.
What I ment to quote was:
Again, me too! But they are.
What I ment to quote was:
Again, me too! But they are.
04-18-2012 | 03:57 PM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,719
From: At dirt tracks in Michigan!
Stock shims are .2mm each (at least, that's what they are specced at....)
I found that one under each gear was too loose, and 2 under each gear was too tight. If I put one under one side, and 2 under the other, it seemed just right. (I feel like I'm reading Goldilocks and the three bears to my 4 yr old!)
Since I don't like the idea of uneven shimming (not sure why...I just don't!) I decided to try to find some 0.3mm shims. Xray has some 5x15x0.3mm "washers" that fit perfectly, and with the extra outer diameter, they seem to allow less play too! Zero parasitic drag.
That's what I've been running, and 3 rebuilds later, the Xray washers are still in perfect shape.
I found that one under each gear was too loose, and 2 under each gear was too tight. If I put one under one side, and 2 under the other, it seemed just right. (I feel like I'm reading Goldilocks and the three bears to my 4 yr old!)
Since I don't like the idea of uneven shimming (not sure why...I just don't!) I decided to try to find some 0.3mm shims. Xray has some 5x15x0.3mm "washers" that fit perfectly, and with the extra outer diameter, they seem to allow less play too! Zero parasitic drag.
That's what I've been running, and 3 rebuilds later, the Xray washers are still in perfect shape.
I warped several sets of stock arms, but have been running a set of RPM arms for 6 months and haven't been able to measure any warping... maybe it's the cold climate up here.
For those that had been asking about prices on parts, a good chunk of parts are going live in 10 minutes on my website.
04-18-2012 | 04:29 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
You must not know many RC air guys. For 3D planes we even take the plastic covers off our servo extenders and wrap them in cheap electrical tape instead just to save .5g
04-18-2012 | 04:36 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
The cost of running an indoor track I am certain is high and to keep a large one open would require a big following.
Mike's Gulf Coast Raceway down here I suppose is the closest we have to indoor offroad even though it is outdoors, but covered. It's huge.
The back triple is so big there should be a skull and crossbones warning sign on it.
What I like about TRCR is how clean I could keep my truck! And the bite, man 2wd would be fun. But.. I want a little longer straight.
Mike's Gulf Coast Raceway down here I suppose is the closest we have to indoor offroad even though it is outdoors, but covered. It's huge.
The back triple is so big there should be a skull and crossbones warning sign on it.
What I like about TRCR is how clean I could keep my truck! And the bite, man 2wd would be fun. But.. I want a little longer straight.
I wish every straight at my local tracks were replaced with rhythm sections.
04-18-2012 | 04:49 PM
finally all caught up with the thread lol.
Going to be doing a full teardown, clean up, and rebuild of my SC10 4x4. Anyone got tips on what to look for wearwise?
Also, what is the final consensus when it comes to putting an extra shim under the sun gears? I tried that by adding in the same shim already there and it became wayy too tight. Is there something I am missing here, maybe removing some other shim or something?
Going to be doing a full teardown, clean up, and rebuild of my SC10 4x4. Anyone got tips on what to look for wearwise?
Also, what is the final consensus when it comes to putting an extra shim under the sun gears? I tried that by adding in the same shim already there and it became wayy too tight. Is there something I am missing here, maybe removing some other shim or something?
04-18-2012 | 06:10 PM
I think I was one of the early adopters of the RPM arms. They lasted one race day at a big track, as they deform more quickly than the AE parts IMO. They are stiffer, if you run indoor they are likely fine. Mark them with a silver metallic sharpie on one side after you get them installed, and flip them L/R once a race day for maximum life (my AE arms now have 9 race days on them and are arrow straight since I started rotating them).
I built a set of the bearing modified cases on my mill, but you could do the same thing with only a piece of 120 grit sand paper and some elbow grease. AE will eventually come out with one with a steel bushing, but I don't know if you want to wait that long for a fix you can do yourself with $5 in bearings.
I built a set of the bearing modified cases on my mill, but you could do the same thing with only a piece of 120 grit sand paper and some elbow grease. AE will eventually come out with one with a steel bushing, but I don't know if you want to wait that long for a fix you can do yourself with $5 in bearings.
Anyone try these out? I just ordered their 6 pack special along with a bearing kit for my sc10, can't wait to try them out........
http://www.avidrc.com/product/2/whee...-B-wheels.html
http://www.avidrc.com/product/2/whee...-B-wheels.html
None of our Pole Racers or IMAC guys do that. Wow.
04-18-2012 | 06:28 PM
Anyone try these out? I just ordered their 6 pack special along with a bearing kit for my sc10, can't wait to try them out........
http://www.avidrc.com/product/2/whee...-B-wheels.html
http://www.avidrc.com/product/2/whee...-B-wheels.html
They are lighter, they have an awesome bead that makes gluing a lot easier and they have the counter-serration "vortex" that work awesome with serrated wheels.
They are also stiffer than other wheels, which made the truck feel more precise.