No.



Here is the cite:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10644834-post22094.html

Traxxas add from 1989.

You think I like that? lol. I've spent 1,500 on this Sc10 trying everything to keep me outdoors. It's almost surely my driving skill and style, so nothing taken from this truck.

I wanna be the very best, like no one ever was. To buy them is my real test, to drive them is my cause...

And Cameron: Damn.

Its all good bro, we're just doing what we can to keep your humor on this thread so its not all seriousness (for example me) all the time......

i found this...


(copied from another forum)


How To Tune With Camber Links
“It’s all about positioning”

Camber Link Length:
Link length is adjusted by altering the mounting positions on the shock tower and/or hub of the vehicle. This adjustment is not used to alter the tire’s camber setting! Instead, once you’ve settled on a camber setting (-2 degrees, for example), the link will be readjusted to maintain -2 degrees of camber after the position change.

In general, a short camber link increases camber gain (the amount of camber the tire experiences through suspension compression), and produce more vehicle rotation entering a turn and more traction coming out of the turn. As the vehicle’s weight transfers and the suspension compresses in a corner, the increased camber angle of the tire will increase lateral thrust generated by holding more camber in the heavily loaded outside tire. The tire will have less rubber on the road and more cornering capacity when you add camber gain.

The opposite is true for a longer camber link. Lengthen the camber link by moving to the outer hole on the hub or inner hole on the shock tower, and this will decrease camber gain, which can make the car feel “lazier” and less reactive, while giving the car a more stable feel. Longer camber links are sometimes used on high-traction tracks to prevent traction rolling.

Formula: Camber link --
Short camber link =
+ Camber gain /---\ =
More vehicle rotation entering turns // More traction out of turn.

Long camber link =
- Camber gain \---/ =
“Lazier” Feeling – More stability


***********
Turnbuckle-type camber links allow you to adjust the length of the camber link while it’s still installed on the vehicle. This is done by a standard thread on one end and a reverse thread on the other. A small hex in the middle of the link makes it easy to spin the link with a wrench. A small grove on one side of the hex tells you what side the reverse thread is on.

***********
Changing the length of the link will change camber gain when the suspension moves up and down. Extra holes in the rear hubs and some shock towers give you different camber length options.


Camber Link Height:
Altering the camber link’s height (position vertically on the tower or occasionally on the hub) changes the vehicle’s roll center. This adjustment is most often tuned on the rear of the vehicle. Technically speaking, roll center is defined by the SAE as “the point in the transverse vertical plane though any pair of wheel centers at which lateral forces may be applied to the sprung mass without producing suspension roll.” ---- In other words: Think of roll center more simply as the point around which the vehicle’s chassis rolls in a corner.

So how do we apply roll center to vehicle tuning? All things being equal, when you move the camber link up the tower, the roll center is moved lower on the vehicle. When the link is moved down on the tower, the roll center is raised. In general, a high roll center (lower on the tower) is better for slippery or bumpy tracks because when you move the roll center really far from the ground level in either direction you introduce jacking, which messes with the ride height of the car, and you have a track width change that can either help or hurt your cornering performance.

For smoother high speed tracks, a low roll center helps decrease roll, and decrease weight transfer from left to right in a left hand turn and reduces the “tippy” roll-over feeling a car may get in high speed corners on a high traction track. Steering into the corner is increased as the car will “bite” more going in, but the vehicle will feel more stable coming out of the corner.

You can tune your over/understeer characteristic with roll center. Raising the roll center on the front or rear will make that end wash out first. So raising the rear will wash out the rear and make the car looser. Raising the front roll center will wash out the front first and make the car push.

Formula: Roll Center –

High Roll Center: (front) >>>>>>>>> Makes front wash out causing “push”.
High Roll Center (rear) >>>>>>>>> Makes the car looser washing out the rear.
Camber link low on tower =
Roll center is raised =
For bumpier / slippery tracks

Low Roll Center: >>>>> Increases steering into corner
Camber link high on tower = >>>>> Increases stability coming out of corner
Roll center lowered = >>>>> Reduces roll over feeling
Smoother / high speed tracks

So basically with Roll Center you’re either looking for: (in the 2 extremes) ---
1. Stability – (Low Roll Center)
2. Responsiveness – (High Roll Center)

And with patience, trial & error based on your track you will find your sweet spot between these two by adjusting your camber link higher or lower on your shock towers.

Reference:

“How To Tune With Camber Links” by Stephen Bess; RC Car Action June 2011: (Pg. 97-99)
Question --------

so for the 8mm mod you want to raise both the inner and outer equal amounts correct ? so buy the b4 carbon camber mounts and 12mm ball studs for the inner ?

Twisted thanks for the extra info ,

Still think & hope I have right ...

Craig says no .. though ....


I read up last night with several different articles about roll center and their description were similar to your post...

No claim I'm a expert , but the Ae guys that showed us how to do this mod are far better then most ....


You have it right , buy the B4.1 carbon C hub tabs , invert & install then as shown in my picture...

Team kits already come with the longer studs , if you have standard kit you will need the longer 12mm stud.


tip ,glue each shim together building a 8mm stack first , makes it easier to install them under ball stud ...

After installing the carbon risers I got some understeer from the rear being so planted. Anything I can do besides taking them back out? It was fine before.

If it was fine before? why use the 8mm mod?
a little understeer is better then oversteer.

try to push the truck a bit harder in a powerslide and you have no understeer anymore

If you've raised your front links, take a spacer or two out.

I am no means a perfect driver....but I also don't crash THAT often (would rather drive slower than wait for a marshall that's picking his nose)

What I want to know, is how you guys keep your ball studs from bending??? I'm only at 3mm front and rear and I have bent 2 ball studs this year already....

I crank them down crazy tight.

I bent one and it had backed out a couple threads, now they get a gorilla fisted crank down.

FT VTS Garodiscs are now available on RCShox. Just ordered a set

How tight are you guys running the slippers on your FT VTS?

I was having motor temp issues, and I'm blaming it on the slipper. The stock slipper pad was installed on the inside, and with me Pro4, it would just "WHEEEEEEEEEE" down the straight. I've since rebuilt the diffs, and in stalled a high torque pad on the inside. I'll give her another go tonight, and see what happens, but I plan on running the slipper much tighter.

Just curious, does everyone set their pinion at 18.5mm from their motor? I know that's what the manual states. I would think it's fine if you shorten it or set the pinion so it's further out from the motor, but just curious what everyone else does.

Thanks,