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Old 05-16-2012 | 07:15 AM
  #23266  
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Not sure on the VTS, but I always ran my MTK basket just a turn or two from locked down.
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Old 05-16-2012 | 07:22 AM
  #23267  
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Originally Posted by Eaglesrx
Just curious, does everyone set their pinion at 18.5mm from their motor? I know that's what the manual states. I would think it's fine if you shorten it or set the pinion so it's further out from the motor, but just curious what everyone else does.

Thanks,
I eyeball it. I don't bother measuring, as many pinions are different.


Thanks Krio, I was pretty far off from that. I was only running about 1-1.5mm of thread showing.
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Old 05-16-2012 | 07:26 AM
  #23268  
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love this truck. had it in the street ran grate. the belt is not as tight as new its a good thing.
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Old 05-16-2012 | 07:29 AM
  #23269  
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wow, I ran mine only mm or so from the nut being flush with the end on carpet and it would still pop the front end up easily.

i must have gotten those super secret HD pads that WC has that work on everything
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Old 05-16-2012 | 07:29 AM
  #23270  
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Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta
I eyeball it. I don't bother measuring, as many pinions are different.


Thanks Krio, I was pretty far off from that. I was only running about 1-1.5mm of thread showing.
sounds good. thanks lamar.
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Old 05-16-2012 | 07:30 AM
  #23271  
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Ugh.. The spirits do not want me to try out this new truck.

Had just finished building my new FT kit, complete with the v2 Exotech chassis, super neat wiring layout - only to have the new Hitec servo flake out during initial testing (as in drive around the garage to to set toe-in, etc).

There are many neat design features of this truck to like (and some questionable), but the entire truck is practically built around the servo... I'm dreading having to basically tear down half of the truck to replace the servo.

I suppose thats what I get for straying from the Savox servos that I know and trust. The specs on the Hitec were awesome (HS-7940TH).

rant mode off.
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Old 05-16-2012 | 07:34 AM
  #23272  
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Remove the clicker cover, belt, belt cover, and front pulley assembly. Take out the 4 screws connecting the upper front deck to the center chassis along with the under-body mount/chassis brace screw and the whole upper deck should rotate up and out with the servo.
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Old 05-16-2012 | 07:37 AM
  #23273  
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^ This. I can get to just about anything on this truck in 10 min or so (and I spend most of my time looking for screws I've dropped).
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Old 05-16-2012 | 07:40 AM
  #23274  
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Thanks for the roadmap.
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Old 05-16-2012 | 09:09 AM
  #23275  
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Originally Posted by Cain
wow, I ran mine only mm or so from the nut being flush with the end on carpet and it would still pop the front end up easily.

i must have gotten those super secret HD pads that WC has that work on everything



Aaaah C-On now !!!

My little secret & please don't tell everyone....


Ae yellow pads are way underrated for the performance they bring to the Sc10 4x4...

Adjusted to show only
1.5 mm of thread above lock nut..
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Old 05-16-2012 | 09:13 AM
  #23276  
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
After installing the carbon risers I got some understeer from the rear being so planted. Anything I can do besides taking them back out? It was fine before.
Whats the rest of your set-up ?
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Old 05-16-2012 | 09:51 AM
  #23277  
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I consider those pads to work well on Buggy and ST but they are a joke on this 4x4. Running a very loose track and have lost front wheel pull due to glazed slipper twice in two times out. Glazing on high grip I would understand but low grip loose loamy track, I am hoping these Garodisc's solve the problem. Rear VTS is holding up fine although I am torching inner slipper pad that drives front end.
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Old 05-16-2012 | 10:00 AM
  #23278  
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VTS tuning


ft wheels should pull almost as hard as the rear , my ride can make skid marks with both ft & back tires on carpet .

Been using the heavy duty pad on the ft drive...
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Old 05-16-2012 | 10:09 AM
  #23279  
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Originally Posted by JLinney
I consider those pads to work well on Buggy and ST but they are a joke on this 4x4. Running a very loose track and have lost front wheel pull due to glazed slipper twice in two times out. Glazing on high grip I would understand but low grip loose loamy track, I am hoping these Garodisc's solve the problem. Rear VTS is holding up fine although I am torching inner slipper pad that drives front end.
Unless AE changed the material of the slipper pads they are still inferior to the garo pads. When I ran the basket HD pads would barely make a 6 minute main with a CC 1410. Put a pro 4 or Tenshock sc411 in there and they are toast in a few laps unless you practically lock it down. Garo pads slip just enough and don't fade. Of course some people who have never used anything else will give you the unqualified statement that the HD pads are under rated or the vts basket is the absolute best. Probably the same ones that said we just didn't know how to adjust the original slipper but know swear the vts slipper is best thing you can put on the truck. The difference is I can qualify my statement because I have actually raced with every option that has been available for that part of the truck.
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Old 05-16-2012 | 10:20 AM
  #23280  
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Thanks for the info Dan.
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