Not sure what the garodisc material is, but looks like the old AE fiberglass they used to use for shock towers and stuff. Does it wear the slipper plates?

I should have ordered a set when ordering the v2 cDiff I suppose, not above trying new stuff. Obviously some(most?) of the "community" upgrades made it to become the FT version of the truck.

thank you.

I also run on carpet and agree the HD FT pads work just fine for all the high grip that I run on. Tried the FT VTS system out and it also worked great on the carpet and there was a big difference in the feel of the VTS over the stock system.

Good to hear... enjoy!

after the scary experience of sc10 4x4 servo change virginity loss, the experiance becomes less painful, and for some, even pleasurable...

just keep in mind, some servo's are bigger than others ... Might not fit ...

Well the main concern is that all the screw holes become loose and sloppy from the frequent access.

Not to mention any dirt that might be on whatever servo you put in its place. Make sure it's clean from any common contamination.

Don't take my word for it, puppy killer. Like everything else, I suggest people do their own work. Print out this IMG, get out the magic markers and a straight edge, and model it for yourself.



Lowering the camber link equal amounts (similar to the hot ticket current modification on the B4.1) raises the roll center because it moves the instant center closer to the center line.

Raising the camber link equal amounts (smilar to the hot ticket current modification on the SC10 4x4 ) lowers the roll center because it moves the instant center further away from the chassis center line.

Full size race cars have moved away from changing the roll center as a means of changing handling a long time ago, mostly because changing the roll center has multiple other unintended changes as a consequence - bump steer and camber change to name two. Maybe changing the roll center helped, but the camber curve might be worse. Or maybe something else. In any case, it's just a guess as to why it worked or didn't work, at lease when compared to just changing the sway bar or making a shock valving change, which only changes roll stiffness.

Engineers hate to guess.

I noticed today while installing the FT upgrades that some of my ball links are not moving freely. They look clean and It's just a few of them, but i.e. the right steering link will just stick to any position I move it, it's that bad. I sprayed them with some graphite spray and it helped some, but still not as smooth as before. This is after just a few runs on sanded astroturf, no fine dust. Any ideas on how to fix them?

maybe heating them up and poping them on and off for a few times, let hem rest and maybe it helped

Squeeze them with pliers.

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bz8...U9vT094Rk1qT00

I'll give it a try, thanks. Also, in the kit there was a golden screw.. any idea what that is for? All others are black.

Evil , that helps major ..


I think & just a suggestion

just
move rear shock inside on rear arm.....

after trying above, look more into the weight set-up your using , Ck Kody's Jconcept set-up weight layout....