I am running the exotek chassis with a pro4 4600 and no heat issues with the extra weight. The rx8 and pro4 are 1/8 scale work horses, just wish the rx8 was a little smaller though.
I heard that tekin is working on a sc speedo??

Check your rx8 settings too, don't recommend any push control. Also what helped me was throwing in the overdrive pulley in the front. Seems to help the back of the truck follow the front instead of the rear pushing the front around like a snow mobile.

Will the overdrive be okay with the c-dif?

I guess ask Marcus on that one, I have a clutch basket. I don't think the c-diff will solve the heavy rear issue our trucks have but definitely should put more power down instead of loosing it.

No - it will diff all the time.

Quickest & easiest change is as Marcus suggested, move the shock mount location on the rear arm to the inside. Too much rear traction may be adding to the push prob.

Not there yet, less front camber... possibly down to -1.

If that doesn't get it, try reduce the amount of toe out to where you are getting the exit steering you want but still have good initial turn in. That's a give & take. (courtesy of Marcus)

moving shocks inward on bottom makes a big difference.

I forgot, you running the C-Diff? More pins may help balance the power front to rear. pins like a thin front diff fluid for better steering in loose conditions and more pins if you are running on a high traction surface.

i cant wait until i get my brand new sc10 4x4 factory kit truck next week i am very very very very excited.

I do have great rear traction. Have discussed reducing rear traction to balance the truck, but i'd rather try to improve the front first. I'm gonna reduce all my camber to -1 and move the rear shocks to the inside arm mount. I'll start with that. If I can fix the push the truck will be damn good.

fq, have the v2 center diff with 5 pins at the moment, have been considering the move to 6.. Medium traction, outdoor track.

Ironically,I have the complete opposite problem with my SC10 2wd at the same track. Turns perfect but can't get the rear to hook up! As it is I am still running lap times as fast as anyone else. If I could get the rear of the 2wd hooked up it would be perfect.

Go to no toe or toe out...That should help a bunch too and its easy to change.

I just got my GF's sc10 2x dialed in, added weight behind the battery and made the front end sky high and not only it is way faster but easier to drive.

I run 1 degree toe out on everything, SC10 2wd already has rear ballast weight in front of tranny, + 3oz. in rear of bat tray.

Adding and removing pins is another quick and easy tool. I find myself with about the same setup indoor & outdoor (except ride height) and just change the number of pins.
If the outdoor track is real blown out I gotta mess with other stuff, but from loose track to high bite I just change the pin count... easy.

How many pins are you using? I have no problem getting traction with 5 pins. My outdoor track is pretty smooth after it was redone. I started with 4, moved to 5... now what do ya think 6?

Try going the other way, more pins should put more power up front.

Maybe to get a feel of it, run a pack with no pins and run a pack with 10 pins.