Is that a 550-size can you`re runnin? If so, you can run 12 tooth with 62(32p) until your Lipo says no and still not temp (but check it anyway), and go on up from there (user has mentioned getting even cooler temps going up to 15 tooth!?). In short, for a medium sized track, run whatever makes you comfortable/fastest with no worries (but still, check temp anyway).

If its a 540 can, then I'm not sure. In any case, lots of gearing suggestions about 24k posts ago (very first post of the thread).

Have fun, man.

.

will i want to buy front and rear shock spring sets for my new sc10 4x4 ft kit truck? i have been hearing that guys are using the front springs in the rear so if i am hearing it correct i just need to buy front shock spring set correct?

If you ever get to drive my 4x4 ?

You probably have trouble getting down the straight , be like you never experience steering before...

You could go either way, I still like the blue rears better than any of the fronts I have tried. I am still in the testing phase though.

I could never get my 4x4 to push, it either spun out or traction rolled till I put blue front springs in the rear

If the truck is pushing on slow tight turns, ride height would be the first thing I'd tweak. Correct me if I'm wrong but having push on slow turns means there's not enough weight transfer to the front. On faster turns your steering might be good because of more momentum all the way through. Also try getting some more rotation by loosening the rear up.

Ride height question. What's a good starting point and where do you measure from? Center of chassis where it droops down or under gear boxes?

Not sure if I am measuring in correct spot, but I am liking 24-25mm measured at flat portion of each corner on chassis.

a mamber on here a guy that is local to me told me to buy the front spring set so i am going to do that. dont need to buy them right away. first i want to get the complete truck built then worry abot buying them.

Ok here's my setup..
Let me know how to get rid of the push

Only a few things i would change, your setup doesnt seem that far off.
Front:
3mm shims under inner link
1* camber
1* toe out
24mm ride height

REAR:
Go inside on the arm shock mount

If you can run holeshots ( i could never really get them to work down here) you may want to try some gridirons in either soft or SS

I run 1 to 1.5 front camber, try the tire a little more upright to get the outside edge to bite more.

Didn't catch it from earlier posts, you got push entering or exiting?

FRIED



*Move rear shock inside on arm
*Move rear hub to middle on arm

*Install yellow ft sway bar & blue rear

24 mm ride height ft & back

add no extra weight anywhere


32.5 w in ft
30w for rear

Thanks guys, next race is Thursday, I'll try the suggestions then. Truck really is good except for the push!

FQ, general on power push in and out.. As long as i'm off throttle all is well. When I get on throttle it starts to push. I catch myself letting off the throttle anytime I need to turn. I have to get it pointed right before I can get back on the throttle.