the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Hello I have a V3.1/V10 5.5 turn combo in my SB401 and for some reason when I'm coming down the straight approaching top speed, power gets cut and I have to let off the throttle and then get back on it to continue. It can do this up to 3 times down the straight or anytime I hold the throttle long enough to approach top speed. I've tried different high-quality batteries so I can rule that out for certain and my Radio is an MT-4 that I use with all my other cars which all run Speed Passion ESC's and this is the only one that does this.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

lewis110

iTrader: (3)

What's your low voltage cutoff set at? Are any lights blinking when you get back to the table?

Here are some mod settings that are a great starting point.

http://rcinsider.com/?p=69353

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

It does it with fresh batteries so low voltage cutoff is not the issue. In a fresh charge it will do this as I come out of the last turn and down the straight an approach top speed. The least potent cells I run are venom 60c shorties, zombie 90c, as well as track power 90c cells. I run the same batteries on my 410 and it runs perfectly fine.

I will try those settings next time I hit the track.

lewis110

iTrader: (3)

But you're not running a Hobbywing in your 410? The reason I ask is because the HW's are notorious for cutting out early. Buy it does seem this has been fixed with the v3 series IMO. Usually lvc will shut complete power down though.

So it does it every straight? Or just once in a while? What's your motor timing set at? I would also replace the sensor wire. Tbh I don't know if the sensor wire is the reason. But its a common thing that goes bad. If you have lights blinking when you get done it could be a sensor wire issue.

brew99

iTrader: (6)

As a test, turn all timing and boost off, LVC off, overheat protection off, and run with a fresh charged pack. Make sure your fan is running, and stays running (i.e. run it for a few laps, then check to make sure it continues to run).

A racer at our track had a fan that would quit mid run, causing the esc to overheat and shutdown or limit power output. Turned out the fan was faulty

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Thanks.

I will try that but I don't think in a 1/10 buggy a fan would make such a difference in temperature that it would cut off but I am 100% positive my fan has never cut off on me as I can hear it running. Additionally, if it's a heat detection issue, wouldn't the ESC simply power down and not continue to work? I don't believe I have any boost being as this is a 5.5 motor which is PLENTY fast which is why I also run Zero Timing on it.

I'm just trying to scratch things of the list of possibilities is all. This is my first Hobbywing ESC and the only piece of electronics to present an issue for me so it could be I'm overlooking something, so I really appreciate the help. Working sort of blind as my good friend Felix Law is in the motherland for some months so I don't have his expert assistance on this. Please bear with me. LOL

Slotmachine

iTrader: (4)

Could be the timing on the motor is too high or in the settings. Double check the lvc set it to 3.0 and put your cell count to manual 2s....

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

As I said, the motor has absolutely no timing adjustment on it. I'll double check the LVC as well as the Cell count.

Thanks.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Crap, just realized my buddy has a program card and he lives a bit out of my way. Anyone know of the Speed passion Program Card is compatible with the v3.1?

Doubt it but they look awfully similar and they connect the same way.

brew99

iTrader: (6)

Incubus...not sure it the SP card works with HW, but one thing is for sure, you are going to want to have a program card handy for this ESC. There are so many adjustments that can be made to tweak it.....sorry, I don't know what the default settings are (sounds like you have not hooked up a program card to it before?)

lewis110

iTrader: (3)

it sounds like you are running the motor endbell timing at 0 as well? If that is the case that could possibly be the problem as well. The 0 mark on a v10 motor is extremely close to true zero. Personally I wouldn't run the endbell timing less then 20. I believe stock it comes with around 25. I run all blinky as well but endbell is closer to 35-40.

If it was going into a lvc or high temp setting it should cut power off completely. On my SB401 I actually mounted a fan on the LF infront of the esc to help suck in air from the front to help move air under the body as I was experiencing higher motor temps then what I would like. Also cut out the rear part of the body slightly behind the motor to help the air escape.

the incubus

iTrader: (17)

Thanks Brew. Yes it's been hooked up to a programming card by one of the top guys here in S. Florida who is a Tekno Sponsored Driver and he set it up similar to how he runs his setup. As for Motor Timing, I have never touched it so it's set to whatever the factory sets it at. I just took it out of the box and soldered it in and only had him adjust ESC settings.

I'm going to buy a program card right this minute off eBay.

EDIT: JUST BOUGHT A PROGRAM CARD off eBay. lol

FNG RIDER

My Multifunction Programing Box stopped programing, It would light up but would not function. Then it just quit showing anything.
Do I need a new programing box? or can this be reprogrammed?
I am using it on a HW Xeron SCT PRO esc.
Yours,
Wayne Nagata

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Zero issues with the software on 10, 8.1, 8, 7. Dell laptop, $99.00 HP tablet using a usb2go cable, or homebuilt high end gaming rig. Possible compatibility issue with another program trying to block access to USB ports for 2 way communication. Have seen it before mostly poorly writing anti-virus software.

91bird

I'm experiencing a lot of cogging from a stop and sometimes up to couple seconds delay from throttle input before the car moves.

I have a XR8 Plus paired with a SMC 540-4 Pole 4500KV motor. Using Venom 7200mAh 2S lipo 100C in a Team Durango DESC10 short course truck with a 14T pinion.

Same result with Spektrum and Airtronics radio system. Tried new sensor wire with same cogging result.

What testing/diagnostics can I run on the ESC to check for problems?