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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

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HOBBYWING TECH SUPPORT 1/8 & 1/10 OFF ROAD

Old 09-01-2015, 10:35 AM
  #9811  
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Default The new XR8 Plus on a Mugen MGT7 eco - THOUGH TEST!

Hi everyone!

This next saturday I'll put the new XR8 Plus to the test.

A though test, that is! I will run it on my Mugen MGT7 eco, against a nitro counterpart, for 60 minutes!

I am still undecided about which motor I will pair it to, but I have both 4274 and 4068 Hobbywing motors (I'll go with the one that gives me best runtime), but one thing is for sure:

- 60 minute race
- 5 (or 6) battery hot-swaps
- 40mm fan blowing the motor
- 4s lipos (first 3 packs are 6900mAh 100c RevTechs; the rest is 5200mAh 70C Zeppins)

I know it is an insane stress on both the car and the electronics, but has anyone ever put an 1/8 combo to such a torturing test?

Any tips?
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Old 09-02-2015, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by cardinal
Hi everyone!

This next saturday I'll put the new XR8 Plus to the test.

A though test, that is! I will run it on my Mugen MGT7 eco, against a nitro counterpart, for 60 minutes!

I am still undecided about which motor I will pair it to, but I have both 4274 and 4068 Hobbywing motors (I'll go with the one that gives me best runtime), but one thing is for sure:

- 60 minute race
- 5 (or 6) battery hot-swaps
- 40mm fan blowing the motor
- 4s lipos (first 3 packs are 6900mAh 100c RevTechs; the rest is 5200mAh 70C Zeppins)

I know it is an insane stress on both the car and the electronics, but has anyone ever put an 1/8 combo to such a torturing test?

Any tips?
Ages ago, I did 25 minutes of a 30 minute nitro main with no battery swap on 2x 2s 7200 SMC batteries with a Tekin 1900v motor. I did this twice, once with the original Castle ESC which faded HARD around 12-15 minutes, and again later with a Tekin RX8 which handled it fine. That was back when I used brakes very sparingly and always just rolled onto the throttle though...aka, about as easy on the electronics as possible...now I drive a lot harder and would never make run time that way on any track. I intend to try doing similar next season with a Tekno ET48.3 build so I can run with nitro when not enough electric truggies are around. Any thoughts on quick change battery holders for this sort of thing, or for enduro races?

The biggest tip is, if you're finding a lot of heat, use less brake and more natural motor slow down while off throttle, and always roll onto it instead of pulling it. It is amazing how much you can conserve. I once did this with an SC in a nitro truggy main and made 15 minutes instead of my normal 7 on a 2s 7200 before I needed to swap packs. You loose a fraction of a second in a couple spots on the track, but don't have to suffer as many battery swaps and things run cooler.
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Old 09-02-2015, 10:50 AM
  #9813  
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Originally Posted by justpoet
Ages ago, I did 25 minutes of a 30 minute nitro main with no battery swap on 2x 2s 7200 SMC batteries with a Tekin 1900v motor. I did this twice, once with the original Castle ESC which faded HARD around 12-15 minutes, and again later with a Tekin RX8 which handled it fine. That was back when I used brakes very sparingly and always just rolled onto the throttle though...aka, about as easy on the electronics as possible...now I drive a lot harder and would never make run time that way on any track. I intend to try doing similar next season with a Tekno ET48.3 build so I can run with nitro when not enough electric truggies are around. Any thoughts on quick change battery holders for this sort of thing, or for enduro races?

The biggest tip is, if you're finding a lot of heat, use less brake and more natural motor slow down while off throttle, and always roll onto it instead of pulling it. It is amazing how much you can conserve. I once did this with an SC in a nitro truggy main and made 15 minutes instead of my normal 7 on a 2s 7200 before I needed to swap packs. You loose a fraction of a second in a couple spots on the track, but don't have to suffer as many battery swaps and things run cooler.
Thanks for the advice, justpoet!

I don't have any special quick-channge battery holders for now; I'll just count on my pitman to handle the changes as fast as is humanly possible!

When I race off-road I get significant more runtime from the same battery packs I will use in this race, but when racing on-road my runtimes are indeed much shorter due to hard braking and harder accelerations.

Moving from a HW Xerun 150A ESC currently in my MGT7 eco to the new XR8 Plus already gives me an advantage regarding brake adjustability. With the HW150 my best options were 25% (not enough brake - more runtime - cooler) and 50% (almost too much - less runtime - hotter).

Now with XR8 Plus that includes the "in-between" of 37.5% braking force value it should be the sweet spot, balancing braking performance and runtime.

Thx again for the input!
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Old 09-02-2015, 12:09 PM
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I got all my electronics in and running, I hope it's right for a 8.5T motor it just don't seem to be very fast, or at least not as fast I I think it should. IT's in a T5M and coming from a SCTE 2.0 which is much faster and louder it may be fine it just sounds slow and don't scream as much as I think it should. updated the program box to newest firmware and got more settings available now like turbo boost and more timing and more break options will have to play with it and see whats what. I just hope it's right. Book recommends starting at 84/20 gearing I went 84/21 but may have to adjust it more, once we race for the first time.
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Old 09-02-2015, 09:51 PM
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What speedo?
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Old 09-03-2015, 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Slotmachine
What speedo?
he's running the HW 120A V2.1 esc
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Old 09-03-2015, 03:30 AM
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http://www.falconsekido.com/products...combo-x-series the X5A combo
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Old 09-03-2015, 10:13 AM
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You can turn up the timing and that will give you straight speed, you can also use the boost feature for more power. Just remember to watch temps when playing with timing
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Old 09-03-2015, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by COBRARACING
Ralf is this esc brand new? please explain to me how your doing your calibration are you following the instructions on the instruction manual?Please explain i need more information.
@slotmachine:
- I´ve tried the servochannel
- ESC lights red - then flashes green(for one second) and then flahses red
- nothing happens to the motor

@cobraracing: the ESC is one year old, worked till the last weekend
- throttle reverse
- connect all cables and full battery
- transmitter on
- hold the set key and then switch on the ESC and release set key
- ESC lights red - then flashes green(for one second) and then flahses red
- move the throttel sticke at the neutral position and press set key for one time
and now the LED flashes red

Maybe the 4600kv Motor killed the ESC???
Thx for helping!!!
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Old 09-04-2015, 06:09 PM
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Anyone know if there is a new 1/10 comp esc coming soon? Am looking at replacing 5 of my current esc's with HW units but don't want to buy the 3.1 120a's if a new 160 or 170a is coming shortly.
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Old 09-06-2015, 11:02 AM
  #9821  
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Default SCT Pro Problem

I'm having one of the famous loss of power/cut out issues. Truck will run fine for a few minutes but then cut out. Red LED will remain lit, then after two green flashes and beeps, all is good for 30 seconds, then back to the same cut out again. Temps all good by temp gun and can hold finger anywhere on motor and esc comfortably. Never any loss of steering.

SCT410.3, 4700 motor, currently 14t pinion

Tried:
  • Re-calibrated radio
  • LVC off
  • Multiple different batteries of different brands (high quality, high C and capacity that work fine in other vehicle)
  • Updated firmware
  • Unplugged sensor wire
  • Different radio system (completely different brand)
  • Put radio/steering servo direct to battery
  • Checked all connections

I have noticed several other posts with similar problems that don't seem to be resolved. Anyone have any ideas?
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Old 09-06-2015, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by MitchCraft
I'm having one of the famous loss of power/cut out issues. Truck will run fine for a few minutes but then cut out. Red LED will remain lit, then after two green flashes and beeps, all is good for 30 seconds, then back to the same cut out again. Temps all good by temp gun and can hold finger anywhere on motor and esc comfortably. Never any loss of steering.

SCT410.3, 4700 motor, currently 14t pinion

Tried:
  • Re-calibrated radio
  • LVC off
  • Multiple different batteries of different brands (high quality, high C and capacity that work fine in other vehicle)
  • Updated firmware
  • Unplugged sensor wire
  • Different radio system (completely different brand)
  • Put radio/steering servo direct to battery
  • Checked all connections

I have noticed several other posts with similar problems that don't seem to be resolved. Anyone have any ideas?
Could be a bad switch. The reason I think that is because you say it beeps twice. That makes me think it is powering down and coming back on.
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Old 09-06-2015, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Slotmachine
Could be a bad switch. The reason I think that is because you say it beeps twice. That makes me think it is powering down and coming back on.
Thanks for the quick response. Just tried running with switch hard wired on, same result. Also tried a 16t pinion because it seems thermal related based on time working vs cool down time being proportional. All same result so far. Maybe I should have gone 4000kv....
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Old 09-06-2015, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by robbie_gtc
Anyone know if there is a new 1/10 comp esc coming soon? Am looking at replacing 5 of my current esc's with HW units but don't want to buy the 3.1 120a's if a new 160 or 170a is coming shortly.
I haven't heard anything about a new 1/10 scale top of the line speedo coming out to replace the V3.1
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Old 09-06-2015, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MitchCraft
I'm having one of the famous loss of power/cut out issues. Truck will run fine for a few minutes but then cut out. Red LED will remain lit, then after two green flashes and beeps, all is good for 30 seconds, then back to the same cut out again. Temps all good by temp gun and can hold finger anywhere on motor and esc comfortably. Never any loss of steering.

SCT410.3, 4700 motor, currently 14t pinion

Tried:
  • Re-calibrated radio
  • LVC off
  • Multiple different batteries of different brands (high quality, high C and capacity that work fine in other vehicle)
  • Updated firmware
  • Unplugged sensor wire
  • Different radio system (completely different brand)
  • Put radio/steering servo direct to battery
  • Checked all connections

I have noticed several other posts with similar problems that don't seem to be resolved. Anyone have any ideas?
It sounds like you have done all the normal checks. Shoot Angelo an email at [email protected] or [email protected]

It's a lot easier to diagnosis when its in front of you lol. But Angelo is extremely good at what he does. And that's customer service.

Sorry I couldn't help more.
Roger
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