Speed Passion Thread
#5720
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 50
I had a problem with my Reventon R today and I'm wondering if anyone can help.
I have been running it with an 8.5 v3 for a while with no problems, with (I think) the mod software, and the latest versions. It was a bit slow so I figured it would be safe to run with a 7.5 today, changed out over the weekend.
The car tested fine and ran ok for a couple of minutes, but got stuck in the long grass. I tried forwards and reverse a couple of times and then went to inspect it. My brother noticed some smoke and there was no drive (though the BEC was still working as the steering was fine). I quickly took the shell off, unplugged it, smoke seemed to have come from the speed controller though there were no real signs of singing etc on it.
I gave it a few minutes and tried it again, shell off, it gave drive for about 10 seconds then drive shut off. I'm pretty sure I've killed my Reventon R at this point but I'm quite surprised - it's not boosted or turbo much I think (while since I looked at the settings) and it's specced to 5.5t? (though higher for hybrid boost, I realise, which I may have been running but don't think so).
Is there any way I can bring this speedo back from the dead or should I bin it? I have the programming card so I could try and default it and reload the firmware that way, but I suspect the smoke indicates this won't help much.
I'm quite disappointed, I only went down one turn, and it still wasn't going much quicker. Compared to the 7.5 I was running (for a min or two), the Novak GTB and 6.5 combo in my other B4 is much faster, even with a smaller pinion. Talking pinions, I didn't change that, might have pushed it a bit with 24 @ 81 spur and 2.6 gearbox ratio. It was within a tooth or two of what others were running though (mainly 23/78 from what I can gather) so it should have been fine.
Anyone revived a Reventon R in this condition? I noticed when the drive went, pushing the throttle caused the ESC cooling fan to slow down, something it didn't do when it worked. Not sure what that means.
Thanks all
Zoea
I have been running it with an 8.5 v3 for a while with no problems, with (I think) the mod software, and the latest versions. It was a bit slow so I figured it would be safe to run with a 7.5 today, changed out over the weekend.
The car tested fine and ran ok for a couple of minutes, but got stuck in the long grass. I tried forwards and reverse a couple of times and then went to inspect it. My brother noticed some smoke and there was no drive (though the BEC was still working as the steering was fine). I quickly took the shell off, unplugged it, smoke seemed to have come from the speed controller though there were no real signs of singing etc on it.
I gave it a few minutes and tried it again, shell off, it gave drive for about 10 seconds then drive shut off. I'm pretty sure I've killed my Reventon R at this point but I'm quite surprised - it's not boosted or turbo much I think (while since I looked at the settings) and it's specced to 5.5t? (though higher for hybrid boost, I realise, which I may have been running but don't think so).
Is there any way I can bring this speedo back from the dead or should I bin it? I have the programming card so I could try and default it and reload the firmware that way, but I suspect the smoke indicates this won't help much.
I'm quite disappointed, I only went down one turn, and it still wasn't going much quicker. Compared to the 7.5 I was running (for a min or two), the Novak GTB and 6.5 combo in my other B4 is much faster, even with a smaller pinion. Talking pinions, I didn't change that, might have pushed it a bit with 24 @ 81 spur and 2.6 gearbox ratio. It was within a tooth or two of what others were running though (mainly 23/78 from what I can gather) so it should have been fine.
Anyone revived a Reventon R in this condition? I noticed when the drive went, pushing the throttle caused the ESC cooling fan to slow down, something it didn't do when it worked. Not sure what that means.
Thanks all
Zoea
#5721
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 95
Stock Club Race ESC. Hi all, I'm running a Stock Club Race ESC in 21.5 and just wondering what people's experiences have been like. I find up high it's good but down low it feels really flat and down on power. I have the DRRS set all the way and it didn't make too much of a difference.
#5723
Is this actually true? It wouldn't seem so since the Speed Passion website is still up with what appears to be many new products. Also, the speedpowerrc website is still up. However, I've been trying to get service for my ESC (see pic) and haven't gotten a follow-up reply after they initially replied within 1 day! I love the ESC but if they're out of business, I'll get a different ESC.
#5725
Tech Fanatic
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 946
From: Finland
I think they're still in business but seems they've been having a lot of trouble... they do seem to have a new website up now (speedpassion.org rather than the old .net domain), though their last FB post is from June. So it's hard to say what's going on with them exactly.
That aside, I've been getting gray hairs with my Reventon 1.1 for a while now. First it seemed to have some sort of short circuit (maybe from moisture?), causing the external capacitor to become extremely hot, causing even the shrink wrap to undo itself and there was some traces of smoke. The main unit did get hot too. I'm not sure if the capacitors themselves burned, though I've now swapped in a single higher-capacity 10V capacitor (as I don't use higher than 2S batteries) just in case. Opening the main unit's case, at least the underside of the chip board showed no signs of burning. And it does still work, I've driven through at least 10 packs since.
But other than that, for a while there I was worried it was falling apart again because of very erratic behavior such as spastic reversing.. well, turns out it was just the sensor wire. Seriously, can't anyone make a durable sensor wire? Second broken one in a short while. I'm surprised/relieved I didn't burn out the ESC or the motor while I was diagnosing the problems, due to odd behavior suddenly causing the motor to run at high speeds while not installed in a car (thus free-revving, a few times even with no sensor wire installed, which was odd because it was calibrated after removing the wire).
At least one slight problem still remains. I've had this ESC for nearly three years but haven't noticed this before until recently so I'm not sure what is causing it now - it seems the ESC is causing motors to run faster backwards than forwards. Even when I had set the reverse to 70%, reverse revved up very high, at least as high as full forward throttle. I now have it at 10%.
From googling up others with similar issues the suggestions usually involve reversing a channel on the transmitter or whatever, but that doesn't work, and besides the motor's rotation is correct. There's the transmitter EPA settings which can be used to tone down reverse further, but I'm not sure about boosting the forward throttle to match. Would simply pushing the forward EPA past 100% cause more actual maximum forward throttle? It doesn't seem logical that it would but I guess there's some reason to be able to push it past 100%. As said right now it's not installed in any car and I'm not comfortable free-revving full throttle even with the sensor cable installed to try it out.
That aside, I've been getting gray hairs with my Reventon 1.1 for a while now. First it seemed to have some sort of short circuit (maybe from moisture?), causing the external capacitor to become extremely hot, causing even the shrink wrap to undo itself and there was some traces of smoke. The main unit did get hot too. I'm not sure if the capacitors themselves burned, though I've now swapped in a single higher-capacity 10V capacitor (as I don't use higher than 2S batteries) just in case. Opening the main unit's case, at least the underside of the chip board showed no signs of burning. And it does still work, I've driven through at least 10 packs since.
But other than that, for a while there I was worried it was falling apart again because of very erratic behavior such as spastic reversing.. well, turns out it was just the sensor wire. Seriously, can't anyone make a durable sensor wire? Second broken one in a short while. I'm surprised/relieved I didn't burn out the ESC or the motor while I was diagnosing the problems, due to odd behavior suddenly causing the motor to run at high speeds while not installed in a car (thus free-revving, a few times even with no sensor wire installed, which was odd because it was calibrated after removing the wire).
At least one slight problem still remains. I've had this ESC for nearly three years but haven't noticed this before until recently so I'm not sure what is causing it now - it seems the ESC is causing motors to run faster backwards than forwards. Even when I had set the reverse to 70%, reverse revved up very high, at least as high as full forward throttle. I now have it at 10%.
From googling up others with similar issues the suggestions usually involve reversing a channel on the transmitter or whatever, but that doesn't work, and besides the motor's rotation is correct. There's the transmitter EPA settings which can be used to tone down reverse further, but I'm not sure about boosting the forward throttle to match. Would simply pushing the forward EPA past 100% cause more actual maximum forward throttle? It doesn't seem logical that it would but I guess there's some reason to be able to push it past 100%. As said right now it's not installed in any car and I'm not comfortable free-revving full throttle even with the sensor cable installed to try it out.
#5726
Tech Fanatic
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 946
From: Finland
Finally got around to taking apart my 3.0 7.5t motor, as it was looking quite dirty and whatnot. Seems like I'll need to get some spare bearings before the next outdoor season. The front bearing still seems pretty decent, but the rear one sounds very gritty and doesn't free-spin all that well, not likely to go away with just further cleaning. I'm actually not sure why the rear bearing is "exposed" like that, it just gathers unnecessary dirt that way. Once I change the bearing I reckon I'm gonna fashion something to plug the rear "bearing well" from the outside.
I also recently noticed while removing the pinion from it that while I can't see anything "wrong" with my plain eyes on the rotor shaft near the end where the pinion was, there's definitely some irregularities (grooves or something) that have formed because it's very hard to get the pinion off and back on. And now I couldn't get the front of the motor free of the shaft because the bearing gets stuck near the end of the shaft, and I didn't want to risk breaking the bearing just yet. I even tried sanding the shaft lightly, with no effect yet.
I also recently noticed while removing the pinion from it that while I can't see anything "wrong" with my plain eyes on the rotor shaft near the end where the pinion was, there's definitely some irregularities (grooves or something) that have formed because it's very hard to get the pinion off and back on. And now I couldn't get the front of the motor free of the shaft because the bearing gets stuck near the end of the shaft, and I didn't want to risk breaking the bearing just yet. I even tried sanding the shaft lightly, with no effect yet.
Last edited by tvih; 10-06-2017 at 03:07 PM.
#5727
Tech Initiate
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 39
From: Czech Republic! Heart of Europe, lot of beer
Hi guys! Im looking for ESC/motor combo for Xray xB2D, want to race carpet in winter but mainly on dirt for summer season. On RCMART, i just found the Reventon Pro 1.1 and Competetion V3 motor combo ridiculously cheap. Are these good for this category? (1/10 2WD buggy)
I race 1/8 buggy (xb8e) and 1/14 minis (lc racing), never ran an 1/10 vehicle, so apologies for my ignorance. Originally I wanted to buy the blinky hobbywing combo, but then I found out my local 1/10 indoor/outdoor track does NOT have any novice/stock classes, the only restriction they have is 2S lipo and 540 motor, so I should buy something really fast and try keep up with those freaks. 8.5R maybe?
And one more maybe stupid question, why do some speed passion motors have holes in covering and others dont? At least on motor images.
I race 1/8 buggy (xb8e) and 1/14 minis (lc racing), never ran an 1/10 vehicle, so apologies for my ignorance. Originally I wanted to buy the blinky hobbywing combo, but then I found out my local 1/10 indoor/outdoor track does NOT have any novice/stock classes, the only restriction they have is 2S lipo and 540 motor, so I should buy something really fast and try keep up with those freaks. 8.5R maybe?
And one more maybe stupid question, why do some speed passion motors have holes in covering and others dont? At least on motor images.
#5728
Tech Fanatic
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 946
From: Finland
Despite my minor woes above it's a good combo for 1/10 2WD buggy, yeah. Power-wise the ESC is even way overkill, but of course better overkill than underpowered! I have 7.5 and 9.5 SP motors, with the latter being in my B5M buggy currently. It's definitely not too fast with it, so 8.5 should be fine. Actually I originally got a 8.5, but due to uh, various circumstances ended up with the 7.5 which was too much for the tiny indoor track I was driving at the time. Didn't drive there much longer though and now at the outdoor track I use the 9.5, which is mostly fine but if you have longer straights then the extra speed from the 8.5 would come in handy for sure.
Personally I like the 3.5mm plug system in the SP motors compared to the soldering tabs found in most motors, but your mileage may vary. And as for the holes in covering, I'm not really sure. I guess it's some change made in design during the lifetime of the product. My 7.5 bought in late 2014 doesn't have the ventilation holes, but the 9.5 I bought this summer does despite both being of the same 3.0 line of motors.
Personally I like the 3.5mm plug system in the SP motors compared to the soldering tabs found in most motors, but your mileage may vary. And as for the holes in covering, I'm not really sure. I guess it's some change made in design during the lifetime of the product. My 7.5 bought in late 2014 doesn't have the ventilation holes, but the 9.5 I bought this summer does despite both being of the same 3.0 line of motors.
#5729
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,295
From: Chicago Illinois USA
Whoever need to download the latest firmware here is the link from dropbox
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rbw4vq35l1..._0_25.zip?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rbw4vq35l1..._0_25.zip?dl=0



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