I have a 17.5 3.0 as well, and with the stock black timing board it cogged horribly right out of the box. Ordered a green board (20-30*degree) put it in and cogging is gone.... but now the motor runs hot with a mild 8.1 fdr (75/24), and zero drive line bind. 177-180* at the end of a 4 min qualifier. The timing is all the way to the left @ 20* and i cant keep dropping teeth on the pinion because i am starting to fall behind on the straights. I could just order the 10*-20* board and try that... but with the cost of all the boards plus the original $120 for the system, I didnt really save anything. Threw the Tekin back in and ran 75/28 with 30* and was back down in the 155 degree range and back to the top on the charts.

^^ def not a knock at SP either, the esc is the smoothest of any i have ever ran... for whatever reason this motor is just not playing ball at the moment.

I used to run 75/33 with success with both 17.5 MMM and 3.0 give or take a tooth or two.

What kind of timing were you running? also, the Durango Desc201R is a 2.6 ratio, is that similiar to what you have as well?... I am considering the MMM, however a few people have said those run a few degrees even hotter than the 3.0.

Hey guy I have a 22sct with a 9.5 3.0 I was running 20/86 +10 timing and it was 140 after main but there timing on motor makes the truck get loose everywhere I want to go back on timing . Will going up on pinion and back to 0 on timing make it run too hot ?

what ESC? If its a speed passion one, drop your DRRS value to lessen the punch (assuming its getting loose from the torque?)

It's a lrp stock spec in blinky mode .when u turn timing up on these motors they r hard to get to hook up I run on a very slick track . I hoping that going back on timing and up on pinion will give me same speed and b easier to drive ?

^^^

You need to smooth out your torque/Power band and depending on track type (sounds like perhaps outdoor red clay?) you might want to look into JConcepts DD's Green compound (Super Soft).

I guess that would be one way of attacking it, however you are giving up torque as a result. Are you running your slipper tight, and if running a ball diff, set correctly? One thing that i use, if your radio is permitting, is throttle expo. You can soften your punch a bit with that as well. Explanation;

The Exponential (Expo) function affects the response rate of the
steering, throttle and/or brake. A positive throttle Expo value, for
example, decreases throttle sensitivity around neutral making it
easier to transfer power while still allowing
for maximum throttle near the end point. While sensitivity with positive
Expo is decreased around neutral, it increases the sensitivity
near the end of travel.

As the evening wears on and the track dries out, i go from 0% on my Spektrum to +10% for a little bit of traction control.

Incubus brings up a good point as well... the correct tires go a long way on diff surfaces.

Is there an update stock0 profile for citrix models. I thought for S R and Pro versions an update was released. Cant get brakes on my citrix to save my life.



momo

Hmm interesting I had a 10-20 red timming board in it set at 20deg from a 10.5 MMM that I used all last season, stated cogging run the v3.0 black board at 10 deg very minor cogging.

Can the ESC have a issue with sensor feedback I have a Reventon Pro 1.0?

I running on indoor hard pack no grip lol. Tires is not it I can turn motor timing to 0 and it has lot more traction just not enuff speed .i was wondering if running 0 timing and going up a tooth would help. I think I got like -30 exp on radio.

Blinky

heinen81- have you tried running that 28/74 with the SP17.5 3.0? I know the spec sheet that came with my 17.5 3.0 suggested a FD of 4.5-6.0. I was running 33/69 in my buggy and temps were mid 90s after a full pack. I dropped to 31/69 to get better accel and the temps went to low 100s. Maybe the FD you were running was too low and caused the excessive temp.