You can easily run the R or Pro in those classes. If you are looking to save a few dollars buy the R. If budget isn't a concern go with a Pro 1.1.

Both will perform well for you.

How much bigger is the Pro compared to the R?

Not much. The foot print is about .25" larger width wise and a little less depth wise. The height is where you really save room because the R is a tad taller and the included fan is 10mm tall, whereas on the Pro it's a little lower and the fan is about 6.5mm.

Also, I found that for the most effective cooling you'll want to place at least .5mm washers between the fan and the ESC so there's a gap that allows the cool air to pass through and dissipate the heat. I did this with my Son's R and both my Pro 1.1's and the temps drop about 8°. If the fan is resting directly on the ESC the air can only dissipate between the little gaps on the ESC case and some of that air travels upward, thus raising the temp of the air being drawn inward which hinders the cooling effect to some degree. By gapping it, virtually no air blows back up through the fan and things remain cooler.

In mod or stock buggy a fan isn't really necessary. Most if not all of our drivers are not using a fan in any 2WD off road.

True, but it's been my experience that it's better to have a gun and not need it than to need a gun and not have one.

I get to run my Blaze 2450 in my DEX
408V2 Sunday. Its paired with my Novak Active8 w supertuner software. I cant wait...

Well i got back out to the track tonite with the new green timing board. 17.5 3.0 motor with Reventon R esc, running in stock 0(blinky) cant say i was too thrilled with temps. After 5 min, motor was 177* with green board all the way to left (21* timing) and a 75/25 gearing setup (mild 7.5 fdr). To me, 21* advance with a 7.5 fdr in blinky is pretty mild to be running that temp... Anyone else experiance this? Also, there was no driveline bind (2wd desc210r) and spur to pinion mesh was proper lash, no binding. Seems like other motor and esc combos are gearing lower fdr and maxing timing out on the motor and still in the 150* temp range.

Playing around with my settings on my citrix super stock. Stock 0 loaded on the led programmer.

when I make any setting change, I can only get one at a time and 4 dots appear, but never returns to the menu unless I restart it.

On the S version I can change the options and get back to the menu, but in the case of my S, still no throttle response after mult attempts of reprogramming. Blinking orange and red. (This is in my drift car under the drift profile).



Momo

how would something like this work in a 2wd SC truck for someone hoping to do some budget racing?

Reventon S + 3500kV motor + Feetech servo

Are you in Michigan? I would look at your LHS or track first instead of RCMart. RCMart is based overseas and there are plenty of options here stateside.

If you have nothing local to you then maybe head over to our websites:

http://shop.speedpowerrc.com/revento...on-v3-0-combo/

I've never heard of that servo and it may or may not last long. Then you would be in the same spot of looking for another servo. There are some great economical servos from Futaba, Savox, KO Propo, Airtronics, and others. Might even find a great one on the For Sale forums here on RCTech.

Man I don't think I would run it in a 4wd corr. I have ran the revention pro in a tekno eb48.2 on 2s with a losi 2800kv rtr motor and it was smooth!!!!! It cog just a little bit on take off but that is the only time it cogged. The buggy was new an tight drive line the speed control temps was 110 after a full LIPO run. Motor was 125.

Thanks Nexus - any suggestions on specific (inexpensive) servos for a 2wd SC?

Thanks Tripp - I'm going to be running a 2wd SC, like a 22SCT, DESC201R, or SC10.

My bad man I guess I was half asleep when I tried to read ur question. I go with the revention r combo then its like a 100.00 for motor and speed control.

What's the difference between Reventon Pro V1 vs V1.1 apart from price???

Has anyone had a sensor board fail in there SP motors??

I have new V3.0 17.5 with a red timing board that I had from a 1 year old MMM motor and has been fine for many race meets but yesterday mid way through my final race throttle became very touchy.

Brought it in and found anything less than 30% throttle it would cog like crazy (4wd team durango)

Replaced the sensor wire and it was the same, when I got home I put the 0-10 Black timing board back in and the cogging is gone.

What causes this issue anyone had it before??