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Old 05-18-2013 | 09:49 AM
  #3631  
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We are going to start building an 8th scale outdoor track in the near future. I have an early Rc8e and updated worlds suspension. I was looking at budget minded Escs and the SA really looks promising.

Will it work on >4s? If I wanted to use 3s is it feasible? (Our indoor track allows 8th scale buggies toward the end of the tracks life cycle once It's blown out and about to be changed, and imo 4s still might be a lot)



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Old 05-18-2013 | 10:11 PM
  #3632  
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Hideeho
My rev r started acting funny at practice today. I would run for about 5 minutes or so & the speed would dump down to the super low speed like it has hit lipo cut off. The 1st time it did it I assumed the battery wasn't as fully charged as I thought, so I put it back on charge & changed some setup stuff without checking it out. The lipo charged extremely quickly (>5 minutes) so I went back out. It did the same thing. This time I checked the LEDs. They were alternately flashing red then orange. One it cutoff the other is temp, but couldn't find what both together are. I temped the motor (sp v3 8.5) @ 118* on the end bell (hottest spot). The ESC temped @ 136* per the program card & 7.3v with cut off at 3.2v. I'm running 4* timing on the end bell, 18* in the ESC, & drrs 3, w/ mod 1 mode (iirc, the one with reverse). The temp on the ESC is a touch higher than usual (8*-10*), but the track was very loose today so I was spinning the wheels more than usual.

I didn't have time to go through & trouble shoot everything, so I'm trying to figure out the error code. Alternately flashing red then orange is not listed in the version of the manual I have. It does list flashing red as temp cutoff (temped way to low to trigger that) & flashing orange as low voltage cutoff (program card listed well above where its set). Any ideas what happened &/or how to fix it?
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Old 05-19-2013 | 06:26 AM
  #3633  
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Originally Posted by MOmo
We are going to start building an 8th scale outdoor track in the near future. I have an early Rc8e and updated worlds suspension. I was looking at budget minded Escs and the SA really looks promising.

Will it work on >4s? If I wanted to use 3s is it feasible? (Our indoor track allows 8th scale buggies toward the end of the tracks life cycle once It's blown out and about to be changed, and imo 4s still might be a lot)



Momo
Its rated for no greater than 4S. 3S I am curious as well if it could work.
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Old 05-20-2013 | 02:01 PM
  #3634  
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Originally Posted by manuelargentina
I was planning to use the 2450kv Balze motor on my TD DEX408 Solara!!!!! And now???
I know this is a late reply, however I just wanted to drop a note that this past weekend I got my DEX408 ready to race, which included the Blaze 2450kv. It fits fine. It's tighter than the T8 was in my buggy.
Attached Thumbnails Speed Passion Thread-dex408blaze2450.jpg  

Last edited by J.Pietsch; 05-20-2013 at 09:12 PM. Reason: Added Picture
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Old 05-22-2013 | 09:00 AM
  #3635  
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I recently got the DEX210 RTR could someone explain to me how to program the ESC to have reverse as I am just learning how to run on a track and reverse is a must when you hit the tubing and are in a wheelchair and can't get it yourself.
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Old 05-22-2013 | 09:51 AM
  #3636  
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What does alternately flashing red-orange-red-orange leds indicate?
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Old 05-22-2013 | 08:06 PM
  #3637  
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Originally Posted by Waflet
Hideeho
What does alternately flashing red-orange-red-orange leds indicate?
Sensor connection problem. Maybe the sensor wire have a bad contact. What motor are you using?
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Old 05-22-2013 | 09:43 PM
  #3638  
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Originally Posted by WMGary
Sensor connection problem. Maybe the sensor wire have a bad contact. What motor are you using?
Hideeho
THANK YOU! I'm running an SP v3 8.5t. That might explain explain why my problems happened all at once. I was having problems with the sensor wire falling out of the motor, so I zip tied the wire to the motor. I probably got it too tight & pinched a wire (but it hasn't fallen out again ). The wire is rather old & used, guess I'll pick up a brand new one from the lhs tomorrow.

I also noticed tonight my fan has quit working. How much does the fan actually cool the ESC? Previously, with the fan working & the ESC not cutting off, I could run a full pack to cutoff & the ESC would temp 120*-130*. Tonight each time it cut off the ESC temp was 158* (exactly 70*c). Between no fan & sensor wire issues, would that account for 30*-40* difference (same gearing). The ESC temps are all per the program card. The motor has continuously temped @ 120* (temp gun on the hottest part of the can).
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Old 05-24-2013 | 10:53 AM
  #3639  
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Happy so far, I purchased a Rev Pro and 8.5 first thing Monday morning. It was in my mail box Thurs. Installed electronics last night. Pretty straight forward. Got the buggy fired up, set slipper and went to bed. Can't wait to run it!
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Old 05-24-2013 | 10:38 PM
  #3640  
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Originally Posted by WMGary
Sensor connection problem. Maybe the sensor wire have a bad contact. What motor are you using?
Hideeho
That was part of the problem. A new sensor wire made it SO much better. I'm still having issues with it hitting temp cutoff after about 7 minutes, but at least it is reading as temp cutoff now. I was running 25/78 w/ 5* on the can & 18* in the ESC that was hitting the cutoff after about 6 minutes. The program card showed 158* (70*c) & 120* on the motor. I went down to 23/78 & made it about 9 minutes, still not good for a 10 minute main. I took all the timing out of the ESC & ran to cutoff with the card showing 130* (100* on the can). I was going to start playing with ramping the timing & gearing back up, but I snapped my dif bolt, so I'll fix that & start playing with it during practice & qualifying tomorrow.
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Old 05-25-2013 | 10:38 PM
  #3641  
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B4.2;

Rev Pro Temps 123F
V3 8.5 Temps 114F
Geared 22/78

Is this esc temp ok or should I go up or down a pinion?
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Old 05-27-2013 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Waflet
Hideeho
That was part of the problem. A new sensor wire made it SO much better. I'm still having issues with it hitting temp cutoff after about 7 minutes, but at least it is reading as temp cutoff now. I was running 25/78 w/ 5* on the can & 18* in the ESC that was hitting the cutoff after about 6 minutes. The program card showed 158* (70*c) & 120* on the motor. I went down to 23/78 & made it about 9 minutes, still not good for a 10 minute main. I took all the timing out of the ESC & ran to cutoff with the card showing 130* (100* on the can). I was going to start playing with ramping the timing & gearing back up, but I snapped my dif bolt, so I'll fix that & start playing with it during practice & qualifying tomorrow.
How about disable heat protection? Because the ESC and Motor temperature is not high. Maybe the ESC heat sensor is not accurate or the heat loss is too fast when you get back the car and then check the temperature.
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Old 05-28-2013 | 05:22 AM
  #3643  
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Originally Posted by WMGary
How about disable heat protection? Because the ESC and Motor temperature is not high. Maybe the ESC heat sensor is not accurate or the heat loss is too fast when you get back the car and then check the temperature.
I always keep the heat protection and lipo cutoff Disabled!! my blaze 550 runs 175 and the reventon 140 no issues.
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Old 05-28-2013 | 07:31 AM
  #3644  
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Originally Posted by chevmaro
B4.2;

Rev Pro Temps 123F
V3 8.5 Temps 114F
Geared 22/78

Is this esc temp ok or should I go up or down a pinion?
those temps are well within any numbers I would worry about. If either starts getting over 150 or so then you can consider a change to timing or a gear. even up to 170 should be perfectly fine on the motor. that gearing should do well on a very wide range of track sizes as well. Enjoy the smooth power and faster laps.
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Old 05-28-2013 | 07:34 AM
  #3645  
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Originally Posted by WMGary
How about disable heat protection? Because the ESC and Motor temperature is not high. Maybe the ESC heat sensor is not accurate or the heat loss is too fast when you get back the car and then check the temperature.
you can try it for a run and see if you notice a change at just about the time there was a problem. Then if you are careful to check often you can run without it.

I always prefer to run lipo cutoff and heat protection. I'd rather lose a race by having the speedo turn off then lose because it burned up. Then I'd lose and have to buy a new ESC and that would really ruin my day.
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