What car? What Motor?

Learned to not use FED EX now.

Ordered last monday, give the day for funds and then ship. SO left SP on Tuesday the 5th. Got to me in cali today.

Last time used USPS. ordered on a friday, Was mailed on a MOnday, had it on a wedsnday.

The cheaper USPS cost si worth it to me. But have my Reventon R.

Question. once you set up the Reventons for mod 0,1,2, or stock 0,1,2,. do i need a seperate box for each ESC, or can i use my LCD box for all the ESC if they have different firmware? in the ESC> Does the box just read from the list in the ESC?
My sons Reventon S will be set for Blinky, i am running with a 13.5 with a Reventon R. I would like to take just the LCD box to the track, not a LED box for Every car.

also have a 2.0 GT ESC, cant change its firmware since you need a LCD box for it. But they have been out of stock for a while?

So there was some questions a few pages back about the Rev Pro in 4wd SCT. I ran mine for the first time this weekend at the 2013 cabin fever race in Idaho. It was FLAWLESS. Never went over 95deg with tekin pro4 4000kv motor on a huge track in my desc410.

I have two GT2.1 Prostock ESCs that were used in touring cars in the past, obviously there was no need for a reverse. Now the exact two went in to my 2WD and 4WD buggies with FWD/REV/BRK settings. Once I got on the pipe I hit the brake the then back to neutral then hit reverse. Got out of the pipe let the ESC go back to neutral then I hit forward, car will not go forward sometime I had to get the car to reverse again in order for me to go forward again. Sometime I just left my finger on forward position, nothing happen then all of the sudden buggies starts to move forward. This also happened when I first stuck on the pipe, sometime buggy will not go in to reverse. After messing around with trigger finger then reverse kicks in.

Delays or pauses seem inconsistency every time I had to use reverse. From time to time I feel bad for people who crashing in to me because I could not move out of their way. This happened to both of my buggies that have GT2.1 installed.

Came from TC racing I have never use reverse. What are the proper way to use reverse function?

BRK then NEUTRAL then REVERSE (stick at full brake position) then back to NEUTRAL or FORWARD position (so its act like a brake) then FORWARD again after buggy came to a full stop?

2 GT.21 Pro stocks, 2 cars (2 and 4WD), 3 different motors and many different sensor wires were changed. I came up empty handed. Is this normal for GT2.1 Pro Stock? The reason I ask is because I also have Reventon Pro and R, they do not have this inconsistency using reverse and forward after a full stopped. Pro and R were smooth transition from rev to fwd or fwd to rev, very smooth.

Sounded like a bad sensor wire or sensor board but those were eliminated since I have many motors and sensor wires. And very unlikely that I have 2 GT2.1 Pro Stock with a bad sensor circuit.

Currently I have 428MOD in them, updated from 508 blinky.

Also, is there are a released notes about each firmware revision? So far I have seen 205, 508, 323 and 428 but I could not find any document that tells me what are the difference between versions.

Double post...

508 is blinky, 205mod, is standard timing, 323 & 428are both turbo mode

If there is no need for turbo give 205 a try

508 is blinky, 205mod, is standard timing, 323 & 428are both turbo mode

If there is no need for turbo give 205 a try

The hobbywing LCD Programmer card can be used on the SP GT2.0 and 2.1 ESCs. You will need to update the firmware on the card to SP firmware. This is NOT supported by Speed Passion however so if you screw something up you are on your own. But, It has been done, I am using a hobbywing pogrammer myself as the case of it is just like the previous SP one. I even kept this one over the new one as I like the fact its smaller and feels more robust.

As for the issues running FWD REV BRAKE setup, I noticed it was a bit inconsistent too as I setup a GT2.1 for someone with that turned on. Its almost like it needs to be at a full stop or something before going from REV to FWD whichI can undestand gear wise to not shred something up. sort of like FWD BRAKE REV BRAKE FOWARD if that makes sense?

In general I don't drive with reverse turned on so no worries here.

This is where I got confused, so many revisions to choose from. Normally when we updated the revisions of the software we would obsolete the previous version. Perhaps I was used to Tekin and the way their software works where I do not have to do a completely software changing in order to switch from blinky, turbo boost or standard timing. Main reason I moved away from Tekin is that I need to pack lighter, don’t want to carry laptop around. I felt like I never left Tekin, at the track I most frequent there is a SP driver. He always have laptop with him, he won’t mind for me to use his laptop but I feel like I should have my own laptop with me.

I have also Hobbywing LCD 2 in 1 programmer box, it has been updated to the latest driver/firmware, I don’t have problem using LCD programmer box with my GT2.1. I just wish it is all I have to carry to the track. I need reverse as I suck at driving, the place I frequent have a high driverstand and I’m crippled, reverse function helped me a great deal.

try the 205mod if your running mod class. it is very smooth or can be very aggressive depending on motor and speedo settings. and it might cure your reverse blues.

komkit: I take it you are changing between different firmwares on the ESC (blinky, mod, etc)? To me at least, if you are running a blinky class then a mod one, I would think you would just need to pick the right mod motor and gear appropriately versus using the timing settings? It would be like running ESCs before all the timing stuff started, in some ways, easier.

Now, if running a boosted stock class versus mod, it is possible to just use the STOCK boosted software, all you need to do is turn off the settings specific to it. that is what I noticed is the big different programmer wise from the 428 STOCK to 428 MOD software, so settings are greyed out in the mod software.

Based on that, I would think you could get away without your laptop at all.

Okay, thank you. I will give 205 a try. I went from 508 blinky to 428mod by reading most of the posts here. I just got started in off-road about 3 months ago that’s why I went from 508 to 428mod never tried the other versions.

Yes, I do run mod in both classes, 8.5 in 2WD and 6.5 in 4WD.

Basically for now I am looking for a way to get rid of an inconsistency between BRK-REV-BRK-FWD. There is FWD/REV setting but I understand that is for clawler and I didn’t want to knock the teeth out of my spur gear if motor got accidental reversed before car come to a full stop.

Whatever software version rid of the inconsistency is what I will go with and do like you suggest timing and gearing to match the software.

I guess I will try them all tonight when I get home.

honestly, it may be something that is applicable to all the versions and you will just have to deal with it unfortunately. Since its mainly an issue from the transition to FWD from Reverse, I would say make sure when you are stuck that the track is really clear before going into reverse, etc. Since you wouldn't use Reverse during a race in general, not too big of a deal to me at least.

One concern, I know that the brake force is tied in with reverse force setting from what I recall, wonder how much of a deal that is when using reverse?

Btw I have GT1.1 old school installed piror to GT2.1. Old school GT1.1 did not have this FWD BRK REV problem