160 to 170 (measured on the outside) is about the max you want your motor to get. I ended up setting my motor thermal protection cutoff at 220 and haven't had any issues.

When I first set up my VTX10R/VTS13.5 combo I set the thermal cutoff at 180 and I was hitting the cutoff about 3 minutes into the run. the external motor temp was at 120.

Have some bad news. My first viper vtx10r broke after 3 laps a few weeks ago, but was sold from ebay second used, so no warranty. Bought a new one, did 1 race, now, nothing anymore, can't turn him on anymore, think bad switch? Tryed everything... Think this says enough about the products? I really love the feeling of the Viper, but when it has to go this way, where are the GOOD vipers? SEND ME ONE !

I have had many vipers. They all worked great. Go check out the orion r10 thread and you will see tons of people with fried esc's. Its not common at all with the viper stuff.

Checked everything so good, because my first broke already, and now a broken switch? That I can't even replace, because it's a special V-port switch :eek::mad: Hope this is under warranty.... Damn, will never buy this crap again

top quality
 

I have the same three I bought originally that came with A19. Upgraded along the way and have never had issues. 2 vtx10's, and 1 vtx10r. I just bought a vtx10be and have yet to run it. I have also tested and run the Vtx8 through the whole process. I love how easy they are to program and how smooth yet small they are as well. Best money ever spent. Every product has a few issues. but Nick and Willie are great to work with.

how did you break the switch?

One thing I would like to see viper do in a future revision would be to incorporate the switch into the ESC for say the VTX8, and for the 1/10 units maybe offer a removeable switch along the lines of there EZ link plug and play setups.

You could be having bad luck, but IMO its probably user error. when someone continually has issues, most of the time it is the user. I suppose you could have a bad motor that is frying your esc's or maybe you are just very unlucky. I fired one brushless esc since they came out and that one died when the motor died and killed the esc along with it.

Motor is just new, so that isn't possible I think, with the first it is possible, because that was a bad motor, but now again, a switch ! Think bad connection anywhere along the cable, doesn't do anything, no lights, no beeps, nothing...

Did u contact customer service?

E-Scale!!!
 

What type of E-Buggy are you gonna run? I'm running a Viper 2100KV in my EB48 and a Viper 1900KV in my MIP Pro8. The 1900KV is amazing!!! This past weekend ran a Viper 2100kv in my Truggy and finished up with similar lap times to guys that had 2650KV in them.

There is a troubleshoot process on these servos on the site I believe. No lights just seems odd. I had one that had issues out of the box but it gave me lights at least. I know Nick will put you through the return process and you will have a new ESC ASAP.

As for new motors crapping out, I had a brand new Tekin RX Pro and 8.5 combo that crapped out with in 5 mins. I then swapped the ESC and the motor blew the other ESC as well. Thank god for warranty.

Drerc - sorry you seem to be one with the bad luck right now. Unfortunately we can't warranty second hand stuff - you just never know what that first person "really" did, to a unit. For the second one, if it meets the warranty criteria (original owner, under warranty time frame (with receipt to verify) and no physical damage, or alterations) then yes, send it in to us to look at it for replacement.

As Mark stated - unfortunately yes, anything brand new, might even have the chance of failing. Would like to say electronics from any brand are perfect, but we know they are not. And as Mark said, we have seen a bad motor take out multiple units - its a possibility. If you are getting no lights on the system at all, verifying all power connections are good, when you plug the battery into the esc - do you get that little spark of a connection? If you do, and it doesn't light up, it may be the VPort (switch), if you don't, its something more internal. If it meets the warranty criteria, please send it in, we don't get a large amount of failures so everyone is studied to look for ways to make sure it doesn't happen in the future.

That's a loaded question - every motor is different and there is a range you might like, and a range you might accept. I don't like to run over 160. 170 at worst, sometime you need to run in that range due to race distance or track/gearing. 1/8 motors seem to run higher in temp than 1/10 motors do. But there are a lot of factors. The biggest of which is how hard you are on the throttle. Harder, more often, generally equals more heat. Think about running the AC all day, colder temps uses more energy, not so cold, uses less.

Lowering Punch, can help some, if your spinning your wheels and sliding around on the throttle your wasting energy, creating heat. May be fun, but not effective. If you overshoot the corners and have to slam on the brakes to stop all the time -- again, not efficient, creates extra heat. Throttle Freq too low can cause heat. Similar to punch, these motors will create torque, no need to try and "force" torque into the system. If you feel like you can driver around the whole track at full throttle and never let off -- that is going to create too much heat - gear up, so you have to let the car roll in places. Too low can create heat just like too high.

Yes, if you bought it Feb of 2014 it would still be under warranty. Our warranty length is on the longest in the industry. Very strange that the issue only occurs when press the brake. Especially after running for a few minutes. The description that you give above, like was commented on the other page - seems like your radio is not holding a neutral point. Once its programmed to neutral, it follows the signals it gets from the radio, if the radio strays from neutral to brake (which is sounds like in your description). it may not go forward or go fast at all.

With the radio off, I plug the battery in, press the red button, turns on, goes through boot, all lights flash, I get the (2) tones, then the forward and reverse lights flash twice. Then it does nothing. I can hold the button down for a minute, nothing happens. It does not turn off by the button.

I have made no changes to the radio in 3 weeks. I was on the second battery of the day, then I lost forward. Had to back up off the track. Tried to hold button to turn off, nope. Un plugged then re plugged the battery all was good for 10 to 15 minutes. Worked as it is suppose to. Then I lost forward again. After that, it started to loose forward when ever the breaks were touched.

I just tried it again, this time I moved the trigger forward and back and it still did the same thing. Very strange.


Buzz.