Do the lights on the vport respond to your radio inputs?

yes, and all correct !

Yes...Green light will go on when on throttle and red when on the brakes.

Edit: got those colors all wrong. When you are on the throttle the red F light illuminates. On the brakes the orange R light illuminates.

New page refresh !

Are you guys both referring to the same esc? Maybe Bob or Nick will chime in. I don't know the correct answer, sorry.

LOL...nevermind. I was responding to your post, didn't realize you were asking the previous poster in order to assist him. I'm an idiot. :lol:

You've probably got a loose connection between the battery and ESC. The big hit can make the plugs rattle around just enough to reset the system.

The servo and leds work, so that isn't possible

As soon as you switch the power on for your ESC you get steering response. I've had this same problem before and it was the connection. I wonder if it's actually the ESC thinking it hit LVC.....either way, try either a new plug or going directly to the battery with your ESC and some decent bullets.

Need help understanding what's going on. I'm running the vtx10be/vst17.5 in my T4.2 on a carpet track on the A64 blinky setup. Started gearing @ 26/72 with motor timing @35 deg and temps were low so I geard up 1 tooth. motor temped @ mid 120's, low end was strong but needed a little more down the front straight so I uped the timing to 40. Got bout 2 min into some pracitce laps and motor power dropped off slightly then lost power, power retruned in seconds after no throttle then cut out again once throttle was applied for a few seconds. I quickly temped the motor to see if it reached the cut off but it was like 112. I talked with some team drivers and they thought it may be the sensor wire or the board is cracked, idk cause this esc/motor has only 2.5 days of run time on it. To salvage my day since I was tq(for once), I dropped the timing to 30 and disabled the motor temp cut off on the esc. after an 8 min main motor was mid 130's and esc was around 80. Can anyone shead some light on this as to what might be going on with the motor temp function?

I solder directly onto the motor, and to the battery there is the connector indeed, do you think one of the battery connectors is broken? So he doesn't give enough power to the motor?

He gives enough power for the leds to shine and the servo to turn. After the rounds I drove him and the motor had no reaction, he was very hot for a combination with a 6.5t motor for 3 laps.

Soldered another motor, he just vibrates, but don't turns. Maybe one of the poles on the esc broken? Because of a short circuit anywhere? Could almost not believe it is the LVC, because it where 3 laps, and a fully charged lipo pack, tuned him on and off for like 6 times and no response either, not the LVC I think...

Quick update: VTX10 BE is holding up awesome. Highest temp I have seen it at is 118-120 and that's 12+ minutes running. Only thing I'm confused about is if there is a way to set a lipo cut off on the esc? Accidentally ran the lipo down pretty bad (2.62 v). Yes, I understand that is low. Only was done once in its entire life. Anyhow, I know on my previous ESC the R10 Pro that it would completely shut down the car. Thanks for the help everyone.

I think you nailed it with your first sentence. I doubt the connector is broken but if it is loose enough to provide a voltage drop from the battery, the ESC may interpret that as the battery hitting low voltage. I hope I'm helping you out here.....

The default LVC with the system is 3.0 volts per cell so unless you or the previous owner turned it down it should have shut off. If you have a progauge or EZlink, the LVC is under the Protection menu.

Hello
I am looking to order VF8 motor. Now I am running with Tekin 1900Kv. Changing Tekit to Viper brand should I buy the same KV rate? I am asking this because 1:10 viper motor have more torgue and less RPM with the same T like other brand. Is this the same and with VF8 motor?

Thanks