STPete - glad to see everything is working. We found during VTX8 testing that its a strange phenomena that a 4 pole motor can start failing, but keep running. If you have a dual (sensorless) mode, it will run even longer and typically cause a bad failure.

One of the reasons we developed the new Motor Error detection in the a64 software to try and help protect the speed control from those types of problems.

For those attending the 1/8 E Buggy Nationals ---

ROAR has officially approved the VF8 motor series!!!!

http://roarracing.org/4rmb/showthrea...-VF8-XX-Series

The VTX8 has been rock solid. I think some people might get a little worried/frustrated when the protections kick in because they don't know exactly what is causing it.

The only Viper issues I've had so far are with the connectors on my son's Copper Head R. He has two race days on it (after I bought used and ran for awhile) and the connectors are wearing out. Already replaced one, going to replace the others with solid connectors and shorten up the wires in the process to take some of the stress off. Otherwise the Copperhead R/4500 combo has been a rocket also.

Excellent news

change the brake pwm. I forget what the default is for profile 1. It's either 2500mhz or 4000mhz. Drop it down closer to 1000mhz. You'll see a big difference.

This weekend I actually played with more conventional brake setups vs my std brake setups. Not sure which I like better yet.

My normal setup:
800mhz pwm
75% strength
67% radio EPA

Yesterday's setup
2500mhz pwm
80% strength
70% radio EPA


One tip I would give is that if you are on a track that is very high speed and flowing and doesn't have a ton of heavy braking areas, try a higher PWM freq and see if you like it. Remember you may have to run a little more EPA and brake strength as well.

dont forget to disable dynamic braking. I think it is turned on by default. and you can set the max brake to 100% if you still dont have enough.

Bought a used Viper the other day and a wire has been cut.

I would like to send it end to get the wires replaced as long as the price is reasonable. Does anyone know how much they charge?

I could not find a sheet like what Tekin has posted for repairs, or I missed it.

Thanks!

if a motor or esc wire is cut, you can do that yourself

McGuire - we really don't do "repairs" on the units. They are epoxy filled for the waterproofing element and that makes the process very difficult. We do offer a trade in/non warranty program for discounted replacement of damaged or non warranty items - info can be found here at - www.viper-rc.com/tradein/php

You can PM me if you have any more specific questions.

Nick/Viper

Sweet deal thanks for the update Nickos.

This has probably been asked before but couldn't really find an answer, will the vlink work from a MAC or is it PC only?

Is there much of a jump between A55 and A64? I use my Viper VTX10R BE in 1/10th mid buggy and VTX1 in 1S 1/12th blinky.

Badger - the VLink is only designed for Windows. Unfortunately, its a log of work, to try and make it Apple compatible. There are programs for the Mac that allow you to run Windows programs.

Yes, I think we made some very effective progress with a64. More efficient power delivery, increases power some, profiles specifically designed for applications (i.e. offroad modified, offroad stock, on road stock, on road modified - all different internally). As well as some new software to help protect the esc from spikes that occur from the motor or motor sensor that could potentially damage the esc. Overall a good update to get, if you can. You can even send us your units and we will update them free of charge.

Hey guys, with me vtx10 I just bought used the black capacitor is mounted on the side of the esc. I noticed that in some pics that the capacitor is mounted on the top of the esc. I'm not sure if the previous owner moved it or if it comes on the side but my question is can I move it. It looks like it's stuck to the side with double sided tape. Could I remove it and use double sided tape to mount it to the top of the esc which would really give me some extra room.

Thanks guys, just wanted some input before I done anything.

Here's a pic of the esc to better explain my question. I'm wanting to move the black (I guess capacitor) from the side to the top. Also is the the way it would have come or has the black capacitor been added.

yeah, you can move to off the side. and reattach it where it will fit in your chassis.