Aren't there any special light codes that indicates LVC?

This has to be the hardest speed control I have ever soldered. When I desolder the factory wires it heats up the entire esc really hot and won't desolder. I finally got it unsoldered by clipping the wire end. Even soldering the new wire on it would only do it after heating up the entire unit. I have soldered many other speed controls and have a nice iron Hacko and was only able to make my solder's after ramping up the iron to 900 watts.

Every time I go racing for the weekend, the forum blows up (if I stay home and check ever few hours - nothing).

chevmaro - we do use an industrial solder that can be fun to get undone. I find it best if you apply the tip of the iron so its not only on the wire of the joint, but if you can to the little bit of the post right on the bottom by the rubber indicator (A, +, B,-,C). This help heat the post up quicker to get the back side of the wire flowing as well.

Drec - couple of different answers for you. Definitely check or re-flow any solder joints on plugs -once spent 2 hours with a driver trying to find out why his esc wouldn't work it was bad joint on his deans plug. On a64 Low Voltage cut off error cuts power to motor only. so you can be moving your throttle, but no power to motor. It will come back when system sees voltage is above setting.

cweb - What are the settings you were using for Protection features (battery cut off, motor temp, esc temp)? You are actually describing what sounds a bit like lipo cut off.

Thanks Nikos. I got it worked out it just took like an hour to solder and figure it out. I think its partly due to the wire. Even after removing the wires and soldering them back on with my own solder it still took some extra effort. I might switch to smaller gauge if I ever have to re-solder the esc. I do like the wire though they are nice and flexible.

I use tq13 awg wire. 12awg is such a pain imo

Lipo @ 6.4v
motor temp I set @ 190
esc temp I left default @ 220

Battery is new, only 3 days of running on it. it's a 6200 65-130c so I have plenty of mah. and btw, I still won the main.

The motor temp cut off is a little low. The measurement is done internally on the rotor. Typically we can see a 50-70 degree difference between internal and external temperatures. Its possible its just getting to the point where the system want to shut down because of the heat and it doesn't. I typically run 220-240 for my motor cut off. We always still recommend measuring with a temp gun from time to time to verify.

Nick i am looking to get the mugen 7TE and was wondering what motor you recommend the 2100?

I've already pm'd niko but in the meantime i just updated my vtx10r to firmware a64 and was wondering which profile to use for a 550 5.5xl. I configured on profile 2 but noticed it capped out at 6.5 t and is noticeably slower than before. :( any ideas? This power plant is in my sc10 4x4

a64 has different profiles for different types of racing. Profile 2 is modified offroad, but what you have to keep in mind, typically in offroad you are detuning the power and making it smoother. You need to put the power to the ground. The 4wd sct will not have the issues putting power to the ground. I suggest trying profile 1, which is actually the 17.5 setup.

If that doesn't work, try the 17.5 onroad setup. Just be aware that your brakes will be different from the offroad profiles.

Ok so I had a question about that. Are there differences in the profiles that can't be changed? Like if I made all of the settings for every profile identical would the ESC actually perform differently for each profile?

If that is the case can you say what the differences are? At least in generalities.

I have to double check, but I believe if you made every setting identical, they would feel different. There's a difference built into the profiles. so if you ran 16k mhz and 100% punch in onroad it would feel different than 16k mhz and 100% in offroad.

Sorry I can't answer this with 100% certainty as I didn't get to test it. I know it was something that the team was testing, I just didn't get any track time during the testing window. So I can't give you my own personal feedback. I'll see if I can test it but to be honest I think I have 1 more race in 10th scale for a few months. Not sure that I'll get a chance. It's something that you could easily test yourself. I suggest that you do a 'blind test' and show someone how to switch your profiles. Have them switch it for you and not tell you which one you are on... see if you notice any differences.

I would think they would all feel the same, unless they have hidden setting built in, but that would be a bit confusing for the customer. IMO they built templates that have common setting used for those conditions. If you made them all the same, they would all feel the same.

I will give it a shot after work.

Thanks. Resoldered the wires already. And i have the a55 version. He was a very warm for in combo with a 5.5t and a smoked smell. Bit that could also come from the motor. Soldered on anther motor CORRECTLY and that one was making little shocks but can't turn around. Maybe something burned? Or isn't that possbile?