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Never mind see my question was answered a couple post up.
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Originally Posted by micrors4guy
(Post 13677849)
Never mind see my question was answered a couple post up.
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Originally Posted by nikos2002
(Post 13678258)
Apologies -- don't see the question -- can you re-post or PM me directly.
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pretty sweet deal on viper gear at amain right now, especially with a 10% additional off of your purchase.
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This will be for Oval Street Stock.
Vector X12 Brushless StockSpec 13.5 RPM 21.960 Power 241W Magnet material Sintered 12.45mm Specific rpm per volt, kV 3.050 Efficiency 93% Speedo suggestion SXX StockSpec Brushless (#80910) Want to add boost and time. I see that start rpm would be 5856 Finish rpm will be 19520 Max advanced timing should be what? Then Top speed timing ? Max advanced timing? This will be going into a B4.2 Tran is 2.6 2.6 internal gear ratio 26 pinion Spur 84 2c pack 3050kv Tire 83mm Final ratio 8.4 25620 rpm Model speed 30mph What will get more power looking for a little more pop out of the turn 2 and 4. |
Sale on orange edition vtx10r!!!! jeeze thats actually a good price.
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nick -
had some funky things w the b5 viper 10black yesterday during racing. out of 6 heats I cut out 4 of them. curious if the esc is able to help me troubleshoot. each time wasn't during any hard landing etc. two times and practice before racing had no issue. know that at least two different batteries were used during cut offs. one other battery that was used (one of jays) let me run full races twice. at first I thought maybe sensor wire, and replaced after 3rd time. symptoms: on flat of track, car just shut off. pretty sure each time the F/R lights would be solid when I pulled top (which is programming mode?) and steering would work, no throttle. twice in this scenario when I pressed throttle again and paid attention - f/r started blinking back and forth - which is motor error detection. shut esc off, back on and car would run. but then happen again. couldn't do testing because races were running all day. after second time I noticed the f/r start blinking on additional throttle pull, I changed sensor wire. used jays battery and got full race.(race 4). race 5 went to battery that was fully charged but hadn't been used yet and it happened again. race 6 switched to jays battery and got full race no issue. I'm befuddled. race 6 would def have set it off if it was actual motor issue or some bad connection, as my 9 year old was racing which is a little more stress on the car. recommendations? the sitting in programming mode two times it happened / then switching to motor error after hitting throttle one more time has me confused (the other two times the marshal tried to unplug battery replug so I'm not sure what state it was in then). batteries it happened w were a peak 90c 4000 and a glacier 60c 4200. I can say that jays battery was super snug connections, but haven't had issues before w these batteries. |
What are all your cutoff settings at? Motor temp? Lipo cutoff? ESC temp?
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Also, what firmware are you running?
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Motorman - so there is no one clear answer when using boost. there are many variables at play.
What I would suggest is pick a starting point - try small changes to see what helps with the improvement you are look to gain. Start RPM - 6000 Finish RPM - 16000 Acceleration Boost - 7* Top End Timing - 5* Slew Rate - 3 Physical timing on motor - 30* -- Never let timing (Acceleration, Top End, Physical) go over 60* -- need more acceleration off corner = raise Acceleration boost, or lower Start RPM -- need more top end = raise Top End Timing, or Lower Finish RPM -- slew rate is speed at which Top End Timing "hits", don't need to go higher that won't feel difference, but will cause esc heat. Especially when starting this process - stop and check temps on esc, but motor more important. Adding timing can add speed but will add heat as well. Don't automatically try and put in 25* of timing - chances are you'll damage something. Take little steps and see how it reacts. |
spamager -- if the system shut down with F and R flashing alternatively that is an electrical short detected outside the speed control. Either in the motor, motor sensor, or connection. Connection can be to battery (bullet connectors or plug), any wiring that has been soldered (cold solder joint), on either motor or battery - causes an arc, which speed control detects as a short.
It is possible this happens with a battery as well. I saw a team driver, tell me 3 speedo were bad, borrowed a SP, then bought a HW -- all had issues. Put in a different battery, everything worked. These systems we use are actually a lot more complicated than some like to think, there are a lot a variables. Things to try: -- different motor = rule out its a motor or motor sensor -- different sensor cable = rule out its a cable connection issue -- re-flow solder joints to any part you soldered, check factory joints to make sure wires are not frayed or cut -- try different battery and/or check connections are clean (use q-tip to make sure not dirt or debris is in tube/connection) Try to notice if you loose power if you still have steering or if the light on your receiver is still on. If no steering or light - that is disconnect from the battery unit will only turn back on if you tell it. You can always PM me or email me at [email protected] if you have more questions |
bds good q's. and everything was hand touchable.. lipo is at 6 and other temps wasn't anywhere near.
nick - the bullets we used originally for battery insert aren't the solid ones. and now u mentioned it one of the times the amb wasn't on/ car totally off. ok, gonna go through it. I'm getting suspect of the battery connections.. I'll let you know what we find. thanks again |
Originally Posted by nikos2002
(Post 13679298)
spamager -- if the system shut down with F and R flashing alternatively that is an electrical short detected outside the speed control. Either in the motor, motor sensor, or connection. Connection can be to battery (bullet connectors or plug), any wiring that has been soldered (cold solder joint), on either motor or battery - causes an arc, which speed control detects as a short.
It is possible this happens with a battery as well. I saw a team driver, tell me 3 speedo were bad, borrowed a SP, then bought a HW -- all had issues. Put in a different battery, everything worked. These systems we use are actually a lot more complicated than some like to think, there are a lot a variables. Things to try: -- different motor = rule out its a motor or motor sensor -- different sensor cable = rule out its a cable connection issue -- re-flow solder joints to any part you soldered, check factory joints to make sure wires are not frayed or cut -- try different battery and/or check connections are clean (use q-tip to make sure not dirt or debris is in tube/connection) Try to notice if you loose power if you still have steering or if the light on your receiver is still on. If no steering or light - that is disconnect from the battery unit will only turn back on if you tell it. You can always PM me or email me at [email protected] if you have more questions Loving the Viper ESCs. I've got 2 VTX8s and 4 VTX10R-BEs and love how tunable the esc is in terms of feel - you can have it super smooth or super aggressive! My SpeedPassions and HobbyWings can move out of the way! |
Why is Amain givin away viper stuff
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Only saw one item on sale -- glad they included us -- gives us some recognition. Hope we make some more friends!!
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