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Originally Posted by boborc
(Post 12485091)
I do not think this is an esc problem but I could be wrong, it was my first weekend out with the vtx8. Ran great for practice and first 2 heats then....When I power up my car goes like half a runaway. The throttle keeps feathering and wheels are turned all the way left. I have rebound it several times & calibrated esc to radio.Sometime it works for a sequence or 2 then it does it again. If I where on frequencies you would swear someone was on my channel warming up a nitro. Is it a receiver or radio problem maybe. I have a M11x with standard fhss 3 reciever I use it in my other car with FHSS 2 and it seems all good. Once I had steering but no throttle the lights would sequence correct with trigger movement but no motor movement. Any Idea's.
Brian |
Any tips for soldering the Pro6 Capacitor on.
I was trying to solder it to the main terminals coming off the ESC (VTX10R-BE) and i'm not making a dent in that solder in 6s. Running my brand spanking new fancy soldering iron with a 5.2mm chisel tip at 650deg. Guess I'm just a little paranoid because it seems like too much heat on those terminals will destroy the esc. |
Pre-tin your iron with good quality rosin core solder, and use a flux pen/paste to aid the heat transfer.
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Originally Posted by DanielC.
(Post 12485314)
Pre-tin your iron with good quality rosin core solder, and use a flux pen/paste to aid the heat transfer.
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Originally Posted by SUPERLOOPER
(Post 12485127)
Do you have a glitch buster or power cap installed? If not try that and let me know what happens. Nick is on vacation so he may or may not post with an answer. I do not work for them just a team driver trying to help. :)
Brian |
Ok, I cycled it about 15 to 20 times with the old receiver, the first time the blue led flashed like it was in binding mode the throttle feathered a touch then it caught and turned solid blue. every time after that it worked. Its defiantly Radio. Don't know weather to trust the old receiver or put in a new one at a $100 a pop
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My VTX8 is on it's way under RMA 082620132713.
As I mentioned in the form, I didn't use it for a couple of months after purchase while organising parts and then doing the build, but it seems the Vport wires are damaged from racing. I would like it repaired, just let me know what I need to do when you get it, thanks! In the meantime I'll use buggy 2 with the other VTX8 I purchased later on and race with that on the 8th. It's had about 15 mins of runtime in it but did go well when I used it for the last race on Sunday. |
What do folks think of 18/87 gearing on an SC10 on a small medium size medium/high bite track? I over motor-temped during the 7 minute main this last week (no boost whatsoever and 12K frequency). It over-temped with the same gearing on an indoor carpet track a few days before too. Motor cut off was at 220 during the carpet race and then I jacked it up to 240 for the outdoor race. It was hot out this weekend (96°). Wondering if the motor is starting to go bad.
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That gearing is fine. I run my motor temp cutoff around 240. Make sure you don't have any binding in your transmission or driveline.
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Originally Posted by Barge
(Post 12485272)
Any tips for soldering the Pro6 Capacitor on.
I was trying to solder it to the main terminals coming off the ESC (VTX10R-BE) and i'm not making a dent in that solder in 6s. Running my brand spanking new fancy soldering iron with a 5.2mm chisel tip at 650deg. Guess I'm just a little paranoid because it seems like too much heat on those terminals will destroy the esc. Too sum it up, the factory soldering is used with very high heat, professional grade equipment and probably soldered on before the terminals are even connected. Because of this the regular hobbyist needs to own a very high quality soldering iron, capable of pushing those watts in order to desolder the factory wire. I was very worried about frying my new speed control with too much heat, so what I did was cut the wire as close to the terminal as possible and solder on top of it. This fixed all the issues I was having, I just needed to install additional heat shrink/wire protectant. |
Originally Posted by bds81175
(Post 12487237)
What do folks think of 18/87 gearing on an SC10 on a small medium size medium/high bite track? I over motor-temped during the 7 minute main this last week (no boost whatsoever and 12K frequency). It over-temped with the same gearing on an indoor carpet track a few days before too. Motor cut off was at 220 during the carpet race and then I jacked it up to 240 for the outdoor race. It was hot out this weekend (96°). Wondering if the motor is starting to go bad.
Another option is to install the 12.8mm rotor. I think that they will add torque and allow you to run cooler. Here's the rotor options available for tuning. http://www.shopviperrc.com/searchresults.asp?cat=1839 |
Originally Posted by boborc
(Post 12486052)
Ok, I cycled it about 15 to 20 times with the old receiver, the first time the blue led flashed like it was in binding mode the throttle feathered a touch then it caught and turned solid blue. every time after that it worked. Its defiantly Radio. Don't know weather to trust the old receiver or put in a new one at a $100 a pop
I have nothing solid yet, but I'm testing a theory of mine that the newer generation of radios have a super high speed setting that messes with the ESC's. I believe this setting was intended to be used for dual servo setups like you would find in a nitro car. So go through your radio's manual and look for anything like that and then disable it or set ch2 to std speed. Let me know if this helps. Also what model transmitter and receivers are you working with? |
Originally Posted by Bob Barry
(Post 12487948)
check your radio settings for anything that says High Speed or HRSS something along those lines. If you have the option to disable it for your throttle channel (Ch2) do that. Set it to std.
I have nothing solid yet, but I'm testing a theory of mine that the newer generation of radios have a super high speed setting that messes with the ESC's. I believe this setting was intended to be used for dual servo setups like you would find in a nitro car. So go through your radio's manual and look for anything like that and then disable it or set ch2 to std speed. Let me know if this helps. Also what model transmitter and receivers are you working with? |
Originally Posted by boborc
(Post 12488867)
Im running a m11x with a 92744 receiver fhss 3
Look on page 48 of the manual for instructions on how to do this. http://www.competitionx.com/pdf/radi...11x-manual.pdf |
motor
Originally Posted by bds81175
(Post 12487237)
What do folks think of 18/87 gearing on an SC10 on a small medium size medium/high bite track? I over motor-temped during the 7 minute main this last week (no boost whatsoever and 12K frequency). It over-temped with the same gearing on an indoor carpet track a few days before too. Motor cut off was at 220 during the carpet race and then I jacked it up to 240 for the outdoor race. It was hot out this weekend (96°). Wondering if the motor is starting to go bad.
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