Do you have a glitch buster or power cap installed? If not try that and let me know what happens. Nick is on vacation so he may or may not post with an answer. I do not work for them just a team driver trying to help.

Brian

Any tips for soldering the Pro6 Capacitor on.

I was trying to solder it to the main terminals coming off the ESC (VTX10R-BE) and i'm not making a dent in that solder in 6s. Running my brand spanking new fancy soldering iron with a 5.2mm chisel tip at 650deg.

Guess I'm just a little paranoid because it seems like too much heat on those terminals will destroy the esc.

Pre-tin your iron with good quality rosin core solder, and use a flux pen/paste to aid the heat transfer.

Always pre-tin my iron and i'm using good flux core solder. Haven't had much need for additional flux but I guess now might be the time.

I have a glitch buster installed, I'am leaning towards a Radio problem, going to try a different receiver tonight. Just so weird how the throttle was feathering like that. 10% to like 30% throttle no more no less. Maybe there is a Gremlin in my radio lol

Ok, I cycled it about 15 to 20 times with the old receiver, the first time the blue led flashed like it was in binding mode the throttle feathered a touch then it caught and turned solid blue. every time after that it worked. Its defiantly Radio. Don't know weather to trust the old receiver or put in a new one at a $100 a pop

My VTX8 is on it's way under RMA 082620132713.

As I mentioned in the form, I didn't use it for a couple of months after purchase while organising parts and then doing the build, but it seems the Vport wires are damaged from racing.

I would like it repaired, just let me know what I need to do when you get it, thanks!

In the meantime I'll use buggy 2 with the other VTX8 I purchased later on and race with that on the 8th. It's had about 15 mins of runtime in it but did go well when I used it for the last race on Sunday.

What do folks think of 18/87 gearing on an SC10 on a small medium size medium/high bite track? I over motor-temped during the 7 minute main this last week (no boost whatsoever and 12K frequency). It over-temped with the same gearing on an indoor carpet track a few days before too. Motor cut off was at 220 during the carpet race and then I jacked it up to 240 for the outdoor race. It was hot out this weekend (96°). Wondering if the motor is starting to go bad.

That gearing is fine. I run my motor temp cutoff around 240. Make sure you don't have any binding in your transmission or driveline.

I cant answer your question about soldering on the cap, but a couple of pages back I was having the same problems as you were with the factory soldering.
Too sum it up, the factory soldering is used with very high heat, professional grade equipment and probably soldered on before the terminals are even connected. Because of this the regular hobbyist needs to own a very high quality soldering iron, capable of pushing those watts in order to desolder the factory wire.

I was very worried about frying my new speed control with too much heat, so what I did was cut the wire as close to the terminal as possible and solder on top of it. This fixed all the issues I was having, I just needed to install additional heat shrink/wire protectant.

What's the external temps?

Another option is to install the 12.8mm rotor. I think that they will add torque and allow you to run cooler. Here's the rotor options available for tuning.

http://www.shopviperrc.com/searchresults.asp?cat=1839

check your radio settings for anything that says High Speed or HRSS something along those lines. If you have the option to disable it for your throttle channel (Ch2) do that. Set it to std.

I have nothing solid yet, but I'm testing a theory of mine that the newer generation of radios have a super high speed setting that messes with the ESC's. I believe this setting was intended to be used for dual servo setups like you would find in a nitro car. So go through your radio's manual and look for anything like that and then disable it or set ch2 to std speed.

Let me know if this helps.

Also what model transmitter and receivers are you working with?

Im running a m11x with a 92744 receiver fhss 3

Ok I looked it up. Airtronics calls it SHR. You can set it for each channel independently. Turn SHR off for ch2 and test again. If it still is doing this, disable SHR for all channels and test.

Look on page 48 of the manual for instructions on how to do this.
http://www.competitionx.com/pdf/radi...11x-manual.pdf

So no one asked what motor he is runnig here? did I miss something? with a 17.5 he could be up in the 25-28 pinion... 13.5 23-25 pinion and then true mods lower down to where he is stating... I agree his temp shouldn't be getting up to the limits either but knowing the size of motor would sure help us out...