There is no one magical gear ration for 17.5 - more wide open the track is, the higher you can go - but naturally you could suffer on anything short (short run up to a jump, short straight etc). You got the right idea, look at your lap time and your temps to find the right balance. Remember to set yourself up for the race time of your longest run (normally a main event), not a 10-15 minute practice run - motors don't like that

Good Luck!!!!

Hey guys
I have a question regarding the Viper Capacitors
which capacitor set stores more power?

The 'VTX 4x Power Capacitor Module'
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...pacitor-Module

'Black Edition' Power Capacitor Set ?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Capacitor-Set

I am running a Savox servo and the pos SR300rx.
opinions welcome!

The VTX 4X set has a capacity of 1080 uf at 16V (4 270uF 16V caps in parallel). The new Black Edition set has a capacity of 3000 uF at 16V (3 1000uF 16V caps in parallel). So very clearly the BE Caps.

That said I'm running the stock 270uF pair in my XXX-SCT with a Savox 1258 tg and have zero glitching issues...I'm running a VST13.5t boosted. You should only really "need" the bigger caps if your running a low turn motor or a 550.

Ran my Viper 17.5 last night on indoor off-road carpet!!! It did great lots of speed!!! Ran 82/26 Spur/Pinion. 15 Degrees Timing! And had 10% boost set w/ the pro-gauge!!! Did real well!!! Just started messing with some of the internal settings w/ the pro-gauge!!! Didn't need all this with the Viper 8.5!!!

got my copper head combo on the track today. Thing flat out was awesome. Had tons of power and it never missed a beat.

cool,

Yeah the copperhead is AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have a question for the guy's running the copperhead 5150 combo in a Losi SCTE. I've had the combo in my truck for a couple of month's and it's been running great until one night at the track practicing the esc just shut down, so I sent it to viper (great customer service) and they said the bec failed because of a voltage spike. My setup is 13 tooth pinion #4 throttle punch #4 on timing no drag brake and I never had any over heating problems. They suggested to go down 1 to 2 teeth and drop throttle punch to#2 didn't say anything about timing .I was wondering what you guy's are running on settings do any of you run punch as low as 2 I thought 4 was way low Just so you know this truck is only run on the track no bashing
Thanks for any help I'd appreciate it Bob

Sometimes a voltage spike can just be one of those things. Could happen lots of different ways. As for the punch - it really is going to depend on your feel and the traction available. I have been at tracks where I turned it down to 2 because I couldn't control it with more. I have also turned it up a little higher and geared down a tooth - so many variables. just remember to watch your temps - don't run too long, especially with 4wd SC. I really think that is the harded environment for these electronics in all of rc.

Thanks nikos2002 I just ordered a 12 tooth pinion my lhs didn't have one in stock I have the pro gage so I'll adjust my punch according to track conditions. I thought timing had more of effect on temps? What would you consider running to long, on practice days I usually run around 10 to 15 Min's and always keep a close watch on temps witch have never been an issue.Again thanks for the help as I've only been in the hobby a Little under a year and I still have allot to learn

HI,
I have a VTX10R and a 6.5 in a dex410r. I was having problems thermaling the ESC. I went to a 10.5 motor playing with gearing and boost and got it to my liking. I ran a couple of packs in the qualifiers this evening and put a fresh pack in for the main. Turned on the ecs and all i get power up with the foward and reverse lights blinking together. servo is powered but no power to the motor. I re-clibrated, tried another pack, tried to access the esc with pro gauge and the esc will let me do nothing. I cannot even shut it down with the on/off button, i have to unplug the pack to get it to shut down, anyone know what is wrong??

I had this happen once, spun the motor by hand and it fixed it. Hasn't ever occurred again.

I tried that as well... Thanks for the tip though..

Throwindirt - try not to run more than the longest main time you have to run. If you track runs 7 min mains, don't run too much longer than that - 10 minute main - only 10 minutes. This way you don't get the motor overly hot. Longer you run, hotter the motor will get. If your geared for racing - your geared to get the most out if over that certain amount of time.

Plasma - 2 things to try. First some basics - unplug everything (battery, rx connections, motor connections), then re connect. Also try another profile on your radio to see it if reacts correctly.

i have gotten that indicator(foward and reverse lights blinking together) before on my VTX10R with a VST XL 4.5 in my SCTE and my VTX10 with an 8.5 in my SC10. every time for me it has indicated that the motor was past the thermal cut off. i assume it would do the same thing for the ESC overheating but i havent had that happen. have you been checking the temps on the motor?