4LikesViper RC -
09-16-2012 | 02:38 PM
#5521
Viper R/C Solutions claims victory at the 2012 Nsw Titles in Australia.
Team driver Ashley Anthony who earlier in the year claimed the Australian 2wd stock title put on another dominating performance in his Viper powered X6.
His car ran faultless all day with the new black edition esc and 17.5 vst combination proving to be to much for the competition .
Here is a link to the final leg video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Oc0EzRluvs
Team driver Ashley Anthony who earlier in the year claimed the Australian 2wd stock title put on another dominating performance in his Viper powered X6.
His car ran faultless all day with the new black edition esc and 17.5 vst combination proving to be to much for the competition .
Here is a link to the final leg video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Oc0EzRluvs
09-17-2012 | 05:11 AM
#5525
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 67
From: Grand Rapids
I have a quick question. I ran my SC10 this weekend on a very harsh loose and loamy track. No matter what I didi the motor cam off hot and after three heats it was still ok. In the main, the motor starting cogging really bad. The motor felt like it had a dead short in it until you pulled the trigger full throttle. Everywhere else from no throttle to almost fulle the motor kept missing. I am wondering if the it's the motor, ESC or sensor wire? Maybe all the the above. Is there something I should check before sending it in for warranty or what? Any help on this would be appreciated. Thank you.
09-17-2012 | 05:37 AM
#5526
I have a quick question. I ran my SC10 this weekend on a very harsh loose and loamy track. No matter what I didi the motor cam off hot and after three heats it was still ok. In the main, the motor starting cogging really bad. The motor felt like it had a dead short in it until you pulled the trigger full throttle. Everywhere else from no throttle to almost fulle the motor kept missing. I am wondering if the it's the motor, ESC or sensor wire? Maybe all the the above. Is there something I should check before sending it in for warranty or what? Any help on this would be appreciated. Thank you.
09-17-2012 | 05:44 AM
#5527
I attended this past weekend the 11th annual Race against Cancer. Myself and paul sinclair were the only viper team drivers there. I did notice alot more viper equipment thru the pit area though.. There were close to 200 total entries.. In mod 2wd there was a healthy crowd also.. I qualified 2nd and due to a mechanical problem with my car i limped it to 7th in the A-main.. In truck i tq'd and won..Sinclair finished i think 2nd in the A in 2wd and i beleive in the top 3 in shortcourse. Overall a good weekend..Here's a couple pics
09-17-2012 | 07:22 AM
#5530
I've some more coming (:
09-17-2012 | 09:07 AM
#5531
Your two RPM settings (Start and Finsish RPM) determine when the ESC starts adding and is done adding the Low Speed Timing.
In this scenario:
Start RPM - 5000
Finish RPM - 20000
Low Speed Timing - 10 Degrees
High Speed Timing - 10 Degrees
At 4999 RPM, the system is adding 0 degrees of timing, you only have what it dialed in on the motor can itself.
At 5000 RPM, the ESC will start adding the Low Speed Timing, and in our case that is 10 degrees. So at 5000 RPM it will add 1 degree.
As we go up in RPM from 5000 to 20,000RPM the ESC will gradually increase the RPM in proportion until it reaches the Finish RPM setting. In our scenario, right when the ESC hits 20k, we will have an additional 10 degrees of timing added.
As the motor goes above 20,000 rpm, the ESC will start adding an additional 10 degrees of timing beyond the 10 it already added, but ESC changes the method in which it ramps in the High Speed Timing at this point, because the motor is changing RPM so fast at this point. If the slew rate is set at 1, it will start adding the additional timing slowly, and if it is at 9 or 10, it will add it very aggressively. It is no longer adding timing based on just RPM, but based on time (it depends on how much time is spent over 20,000RPM is how much additional timing it adds). If you are only over 20k for .1 seconds, you will not get 10 additional degrees of timing. If it is over 20k for 30 seconds, you will.
The High Speed Timing is basically setup this way to add boost on a strait away, and the slew setting works best like this to basically adjust for traction conditions on the strait.
The VTX ESCs are very versatile when adding timing, they are the most adjustable ESC in the market in boosted racing, but allong with that adjustability comes the opportunity to hurt the motor or ESC by being too aggressive.
I myself when racing with timing, I dial in all the Low Speed Timing settings first and leave the High Speed at 0 degrees, to make sure the temps and feel I have is just based on the Low Speed settings. Once they are how I want it, I will then use the High Speed if I want more speed on the strait.
In this scenario:
Start RPM - 5000
Finish RPM - 20000
Low Speed Timing - 10 Degrees
High Speed Timing - 10 Degrees
At 4999 RPM, the system is adding 0 degrees of timing, you only have what it dialed in on the motor can itself.
At 5000 RPM, the ESC will start adding the Low Speed Timing, and in our case that is 10 degrees. So at 5000 RPM it will add 1 degree.
As we go up in RPM from 5000 to 20,000RPM the ESC will gradually increase the RPM in proportion until it reaches the Finish RPM setting. In our scenario, right when the ESC hits 20k, we will have an additional 10 degrees of timing added.
As the motor goes above 20,000 rpm, the ESC will start adding an additional 10 degrees of timing beyond the 10 it already added, but ESC changes the method in which it ramps in the High Speed Timing at this point, because the motor is changing RPM so fast at this point. If the slew rate is set at 1, it will start adding the additional timing slowly, and if it is at 9 or 10, it will add it very aggressively. It is no longer adding timing based on just RPM, but based on time (it depends on how much time is spent over 20,000RPM is how much additional timing it adds). If you are only over 20k for .1 seconds, you will not get 10 additional degrees of timing. If it is over 20k for 30 seconds, you will.
The High Speed Timing is basically setup this way to add boost on a strait away, and the slew setting works best like this to basically adjust for traction conditions on the strait.
The VTX ESCs are very versatile when adding timing, they are the most adjustable ESC in the market in boosted racing, but allong with that adjustability comes the opportunity to hurt the motor or ESC by being too aggressive.
I myself when racing with timing, I dial in all the Low Speed Timing settings first and leave the High Speed at 0 degrees, to make sure the temps and feel I have is just based on the Low Speed settings. Once they are how I want it, I will then use the High Speed if I want more speed on the strait.
i tested my truck at 0 deg. top speed in front of my house.
i went to 5 deg, then to 8 then to 10 deg all @ level 5. still i think i need more top end speed. should i gear up a tooth, or add more topend timing?
another question- on the vst motor it shows static timing from 45 to 15 degrees. i am at 15 deg, does the endbell go lower then 15 deg and not display it? or is 15 the lowest it amount you can have?
09-17-2012 | 09:35 AM
#5532
thanks, this was very helpful to me.
i tested my truck at 0 deg. top speed in front of my house.
i went to 5 deg, then to 8 then to 10 deg all @ level 5. still i think i need more top end speed. should i gear up a tooth, or add more topend timing?
another question- on the vst motor it shows static timing from 45 to 15 degrees. i am at 15 deg, does the endbell go lower then 15 deg and not display it? or is 15 the lowest it amount you can have?
i tested my truck at 0 deg. top speed in front of my house.
i went to 5 deg, then to 8 then to 10 deg all @ level 5. still i think i need more top end speed. should i gear up a tooth, or add more topend timing?
another question- on the vst motor it shows static timing from 45 to 15 degrees. i am at 15 deg, does the endbell go lower then 15 deg and not display it? or is 15 the lowest it amount you can have?
As far as gearing vs timing, that is the beauty of a full-featured ESC is that you can add the timing where you can use the speed. Gearing up will make the car faster, but lug the motor more. If you are just looking for top speed, just add some timing. Again, start slow and test with incremental changes.
I myself tend to run a little lower gearing, but run a little more timing than most. Lower gearing will give more traction
09-17-2012 | 09:54 AM
#5533
You should keep the timing marks ligned up so they match the timing marks on the can, but you might be able to get a few degrees past it, but I wouldn't go too far.
As far as gearing vs timing, that is the beauty of a full-featured ESC is that you can add the timing where you can use the speed. Gearing up will make the car faster, but lug the motor more. If you are just looking for top speed, just add some timing. Again, start slow and test with incremental changes.
I myself tend to run a little lower gearing, but run a little more timing than most. Lower gearing will give more traction
As far as gearing vs timing, that is the beauty of a full-featured ESC is that you can add the timing where you can use the speed. Gearing up will make the car faster, but lug the motor more. If you are just looking for top speed, just add some timing. Again, start slow and test with incremental changes.
I myself tend to run a little lower gearing, but run a little more timing than most. Lower gearing will give more traction
i will try it with timing first, if i see the need i will try different gearing.
i have pinions ffrom 16 all the way to 25 currently so
thanks for the quick reply
09-19-2012 | 03:35 PM
#5534
09-19-2012 | 09:48 PM
#5535
Alrighty, i am getting kind of upset here. i own two viper vtx 10's i have had no problems with my ESC on my SCT, cause it was the newer style esc with the black capacitors on it, however the other viper esc had the old silver capacitors on it, last week my speed controller blew up. the capacitor popped, so i ordered a new capacitor board the newer black style, cost me a day of racing last wednesday. so got the car up and running, rebuilt the diff today, was checking for diff tightness and click no power. i tried all 6 of my batteries and no juice nothing turns on in the car, so again this week its going to cost me 2 more races todays and saturday. i have a new sct coming in and before tonight i was sold on getting another viper but now i am contemplating on what i should get.