I just like that you can get customer support unlike another rather infamous ESC company.

The motor limit, size (the 10R is taller) and weight (the 10R is heavier) are all that are different between the two

Got to run my copper head tonight just in the street in my scte. I loaded program 4 in it. Weird problem thou seems like it is lacking in the mid range and off the line. Its not horrible but it just doesnt seem to have the snap it needs. Also its with the 4500 motor. The other issue seems when I hit the brakes the truck will
Slow down but when I let off the brakes it seems to come to
almost come to stop. Almost like the brakes are running a second behind or so. Im using a dx3r radio if it matters. Also put the spectrum cap on cause I'm using a savox servo. Also I have a 14 tooth pinion on it with the stock spur

When you calibrated the radio to the esc, did you happen to have any expo, or have your epa set for an existing vehicle? The 14t pinion is a good place to start with that combo.

I actually created a new model. So no on the expo and travel it is set at 100 percent. Also can u i use a Novak ballistic 550 4.5 with the esc even thou it is a sensored motor? Like I said I'm happy with the top end speed of the 4500 motor. Just seems like it lacks in the middle and off the line. It's prob something that I can adjust but what do I adjust? But the brakes are my biggest concern. Just weird that when I hit the brakes it slows down decent but when I let off the brakes it seems to really wanna stop. Like I said it seems like it has a delay

Tony, the Copperhead esc will only run non sensored motors. Keep in mind that also because the unit is not sensored, so you will feel a difference in throttle response low to mid power. That being said the software makes that feel a lot better than with other systems. Also, with the ProGauge, you can up the Start Power setting and the low end response improves, which helps moving to mid power. As for the brakes- have you noticed the strength power of those magnets? Off power those will slow your motor down, conversely it produces awesome torque, that's what 4 pole does for you.

If the truck is a Losi SCTE, I am going to assume it is "Diffing" out one of the front tires.

yeah its in a scte. I guess I better order the pro gauge then.

I just think that it may feel soft on the bottom unless you are on a high grip track with good tires.

Its real easy for the SCTE to spin a front tire when its accelerating, and since it is a true AWD setup, it will loose its "drive" off the corner once the front diff unloads.

Do Viper support service usually answers customers? I sent them a message about 2 weeks ago and I am still waiting a reply, now my VTX10 is fried. It got fried whithin 40 secs of the 1st run.

How did you contact them?

The most direct way to deal with Warranty is to fill out the RMA form HERE and send in the unit. Make sure to send in a printed copy of the RMA form (it will take you to a page you can print from once you have filled out the form and click submit)

So with a recent track change they added a big triple. With my 13.5 SC I'm close to making it though not quite there.

I tried to gear up and found that I'm a little closer but top speed is not reached on the straight and temperatures went from 130° to 150°.

If I lowered my gearing back down and tightened up my timing RPM range would that give the motor faster spool up?

Also, if I do the update to the A55 from the A30 will I loose my current stored profiles?

Since at the time I contacted Viper wasn`t a warranty issue (the ESC seemed to be fine) I contacted them via the other contact form they have,the tech. issues one. A copy came to my e-mail box too, but never got a reply.

I think my VTX10R is dead, just uploaded A55 after getting the Viper Link from the states and went to try it out. Found the motor wouldn't spin but only stutter, unsoldered the motor and checked that all phases were good, all found with near zero resistance when going phase to phase and all >1m ohm phase to motor body. Checked all connections, wires and batteries, all good, driver train all free as well. Re-soldered the motor back on and tried again, first of all was the same would only make the motor stutter and then without warning the speedo just switched off/blanked. Tried dis-connecting the batteries and starting again, but nothing, no lights on switch , no beeps nothing. There was no pop or smoke.
Tested the speedo and found >1m ohm between all posts except phase B to neg which has approx 250k ohm.

Is it worth repairing? Trouble is I need a speedo for next weekends Lee Martin GP in the UK. What with shipping costs etc I may as well buy a new unit, but could this be repaired and then used as a spare?

suparajicon - my guess is that original person you contacted (or contacted you) is no longer with Viper, otherwise we would have answered. That is why we request to funnel all technical or warranty issue through the link listed above. Please contact us at the link or PM me with any other questions you have, so we can see what happen.

Badger - PM me and I will send you some things to try and look at to see if we can get you going.