Viper RC -
#5221
Ok so I'm trying to find a good boost profile setup for my VST13.5T in a Losi XXX-SCT. I have an email from Eric at Viper with what he uses but I'm not using proguage or a Viper ESC so a bit of translation is needed and I want to make sure I have this right.
I'm thinking a boost starting point of around 3500 rpm with a slope of 550 rpm/deg and a max boost timing advance of 25 deg. So the motor comes from the factory with the can timing set at 30 deg. but I've seen people say to turn that back when running boost. Is there soem sort of general rule to that effect? Or should I just leave it stock?
I'm thinking a boost starting point of around 3500 rpm with a slope of 550 rpm/deg and a max boost timing advance of 25 deg. So the motor comes from the factory with the can timing set at 30 deg. but I've seen people say to turn that back when running boost. Is there soem sort of general rule to that effect? Or should I just leave it stock?
#5222
grasshopper - you can leave it there to start, run a few laps and see how the power band feels and what temps you are getting. Anytime you make big changes, make shorter runs at first to check temps before long runs.
When adding boost, you just want to be sure the power is coming on at the right point for your driving style and track. If it doesn't kick in until the end of the straight, you need to adjust it so you really use the extra power.
When adding boost, you just want to be sure the power is coming on at the right point for your driving style and track. If it doesn't kick in until the end of the straight, you need to adjust it so you really use the extra power.
#5223
I have a VTX10 with a 10.5 in my buggy but the motor will not turn. Things I have checked.
Known good sensor wire
Reflowed all joints
Different motor
Recalibrated esc
The lights where the pro gauge plugs in light up correct with throttle and brake. Thanks for any help Rusty.
Known good sensor wire
Reflowed all joints
Different motor
Recalibrated esc
The lights where the pro gauge plugs in light up correct with throttle and brake. Thanks for any help Rusty.
#5224
Tech Master
iTrader: (55)
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,130
Ok so I'm trying to find a good boost profile setup for my VST13.5T in a Losi XXX-SCT. I have an email from Eric at Viper with what he uses but I'm not using proguage or a Viper ESC so a bit of translation is needed and I want to make sure I have this right.
I'm thinking a boost starting point of around 3500 rpm with a slope of 550 rpm/deg and a max boost timing advance of 25 deg. So the motor comes from the factory with the can timing set at 30 deg. but I've seen people say to turn that back when running boost. Is there soem sort of general rule to that effect? Or should I just leave it stock?
I'm thinking a boost starting point of around 3500 rpm with a slope of 550 rpm/deg and a max boost timing advance of 25 deg. So the motor comes from the factory with the can timing set at 30 deg. but I've seen people say to turn that back when running boost. Is there soem sort of general rule to that effect? Or should I just leave it stock?
#5225
Got a bit of a dilemma here.
Viper copperhead with 5150 motor.
Running fine as far as temps (145ish) geared at 11 in a scte. The issues is sometimes stops or cuts out as if lipo cut off but comes back in a little bit and runs fine for the rest of 5 minutes. Also a little stumble will trigger that's and a mild hit as well. We swapped another new copperhead combo and same results as well. Some say it's the savox servo, but they added a castle bec and still does it.
Is this a motor hiccup thing? My 4500 never did anything stupid like at all and it's on profile 5 with the brakes turned down throttle curve at -3 no timing and start power at 1.
Viper copperhead with 5150 motor.
Running fine as far as temps (145ish) geared at 11 in a scte. The issues is sometimes stops or cuts out as if lipo cut off but comes back in a little bit and runs fine for the rest of 5 minutes. Also a little stumble will trigger that's and a mild hit as well. We swapped another new copperhead combo and same results as well. Some say it's the savox servo, but they added a castle bec and still does it.
Is this a motor hiccup thing? My 4500 never did anything stupid like at all and it's on profile 5 with the brakes turned down throttle curve at -3 no timing and start power at 1.
#5226
I don't have an exact schedule at this time, testing has been good, but nothing finalizd yet.
#5227
Mr.Juarez - check the bullet connectors to make sure they are tight. Had a customer who had a loose one and it cause the system to think it thermaled when it really lost connection.
Also note that if you have a hard crash, flip spin out. It can sometimes take a few seconds for the esc to figure out what pole to spark in the motor because it's not sensored.
Also note that if you have a hard crash, flip spin out. It can sometimes take a few seconds for the esc to figure out what pole to spark in the motor because it's not sensored.
#5229
Got a bit of a dilemma here.
Viper copperhead with 5150 motor.
Running fine as far as temps (145ish) geared at 11 in a scte. The issues is sometimes stops or cuts out as if lipo cut off but comes back in a little bit and runs fine for the rest of 5 minutes. Also a little stumble will trigger that's and a mild hit as well. We swapped another new copperhead combo and same results as well. Some say it's the savox servo, but they added a castle bec and still does it.
Is this a motor hiccup thing? My 4500 never did anything stupid like at all and it's on profile 5 with the brakes turned down throttle curve at -3 no timing and start power at 1.
Viper copperhead with 5150 motor.
Running fine as far as temps (145ish) geared at 11 in a scte. The issues is sometimes stops or cuts out as if lipo cut off but comes back in a little bit and runs fine for the rest of 5 minutes. Also a little stumble will trigger that's and a mild hit as well. We swapped another new copperhead combo and same results as well. Some say it's the savox servo, but they added a castle bec and still does it.
Is this a motor hiccup thing? My 4500 never did anything stupid like at all and it's on profile 5 with the brakes turned down throttle curve at -3 no timing and start power at 1.
I did have your issues when at a low value.
#5230
Mr.Juarez - check the bullet connectors to make sure they are tight. Had a customer who had a loose one and it cause the system to think it thermaled when it really lost connection.
Also note that if you have a hard crash, flip spin out. It can sometimes take a few seconds for the esc to figure out what pole to spark in the motor because it's not sensored.
Also note that if you have a hard crash, flip spin out. It can sometimes take a few seconds for the esc to figure out what pole to spark in the motor because it's not sensored.
I tried 7-9 and it was too brutal for the 4500, but like I mentioned the 4500 ne'er did it at start power 1, but the 5150 is. I'll bump the start power up and run itbon Saturday as its going through a full rebuild right now.
#5231
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 97
Got a bit of a dilemma here.
Viper copperhead with 5150 motor.
Running fine as far as temps (145ish) geared at 11 in a scte. The issues is sometimes stops or cuts out as if lipo cut off but comes back in a little bit and runs fine for the rest of 5 minutes. Also a little stumble will trigger that's and a mild hit as well. We swapped another new copperhead combo and same results as well. Some say it's the savox servo, but they added a castle bec and still does it.
Is this a motor hiccup thing? My 4500 never did anything stupid like at all and it's on profile 5 with the brakes turned down throttle curve at -3 no timing and start power at 1.
Viper copperhead with 5150 motor.
Running fine as far as temps (145ish) geared at 11 in a scte. The issues is sometimes stops or cuts out as if lipo cut off but comes back in a little bit and runs fine for the rest of 5 minutes. Also a little stumble will trigger that's and a mild hit as well. We swapped another new copperhead combo and same results as well. Some say it's the savox servo, but they added a castle bec and still does it.
Is this a motor hiccup thing? My 4500 never did anything stupid like at all and it's on profile 5 with the brakes turned down throttle curve at -3 no timing and start power at 1.
#5233
Thanks blue - quicker we get it - quicker it will get back to you.
jrj - don't know - doesn't LRP use a number system like 1-10? We show the real value. I don't know how their numbers work. With our stuff I generally start lower with stock motors (17.5, 13.5) and higher with mods (10.5 and lower) and tune from there to what feels good. At the SC Nats last weekend Royce and I ran exact motors, gearing, but he ran 5k and I ran 9600 - just liked it that way.
jrj - don't know - doesn't LRP use a number system like 1-10? We show the real value. I don't know how their numbers work. With our stuff I generally start lower with stock motors (17.5, 13.5) and higher with mods (10.5 and lower) and tune from there to what feels good. At the SC Nats last weekend Royce and I ran exact motors, gearing, but he ran 5k and I ran 9600 - just liked it that way.
#5234
I saw this product and was very interested, I was curious performance wise and power, how reliable can they be? It will be for a TLR 22 sct.
Sorry for the questions just nobody around here has this system or have seen it. I like the price point as well as the programmer box mostly likely be 8.5 setup.
Sorry for the questions just nobody around here has this system or have seen it. I like the price point as well as the programmer box mostly likely be 8.5 setup.
#5235
Tech Initiate
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 48
Nikos2002,
I have a Viper 17.5 with the 10R. The speed control has one of the capacitors that has broken away from one terminal and my motor has overheated. These items are out of warranty, can I do an RMA and have them fixed and pay for the work done?
Thank you,
michael
I have a Viper 17.5 with the 10R. The speed control has one of the capacitors that has broken away from one terminal and my motor has overheated. These items are out of warranty, can I do an RMA and have them fixed and pay for the work done?
Thank you,
michael



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