Great job Dave!!!! See you next week!!! :cool:

opio - try Dave's steps, I did use that to help myself one time. If you have the PCLink, you can also try and re-write the software to the esc. We are all about more options to help!!!!!

I'm actually going to throw on the setup for the viper 8.5 setup just above and start from there..

It feels like my throttle ramps out mid way. Can't seem to get it:sweat:
STOCK profile 2 setup, changes- brake-65%,pwm-8000, drag brake- 25%
throttle freq- 9600

I also ran my Copperhead 5150 at the Mn Offroad series race. (finished 2nd behind Dave) Having never raced 4x4 Sct before it was a blast. The 5150 system was very smooth and predictable and power was awesome. I only changed the punch and timing from 5 to 3 on both and ran a 13t pinion on a Scte. I also must comment, I have ran a Losi 8e with a Xcelorin sensorless system and never really liked the brakes on it. The brakes on the Copperhead were smooth yet powerful.
Also a big thank you to Viper for sponsoring the 4x4 Sc class at the Mnrc series!

Rex

Nice man...good to see more racers getting to experience just how good it is.

Yea man! LOL I love the esc, I tried what Dave had said, still with the same results. I did not know that there was a pc link. Where can I get one?

under which profile can i use the holeshot launch feature. i'm running the vtx10 esc with the viper 10.5 on profile 1. everytime i try to access the holeshot launch with my proguage it does nothing. am i doing something wrong? also i'm running the most current firmware

I notice that the viper blurb about the VTX10 says "6.5 turn in 2wd applications".
Does this means a 6.5T in a 4wd buggy is not recommended and may blow something up? What is the motor limit for 4wd buggies?

A Main Hobbies. It's approx. $25

Hummm, thanks but I don't think I will get one of a one time deal. I will be sending this one back in. I don't believe it is my responsibility to fix this as it is only 2 months old and I know of 2 others with this same problem at my local track alone.

opio - agreed, let us fix it for you. You can fill out an RMA form from the website and send it in, we have a fast turn around service to get you going. Sorry to hear you had any trouble in the first place, everyone was just throwing ideas out to help.

The PCLink option, would be for one that already had one to work with. We will have software updates from time to time - we went from a19 to a30 several months ago -- and there maybe something else in the works :sneaky::sneaky::sneaky::D:tire::tire:

mel - it should work in all he profiles - just make sure you are selecting it when scrolling through the menu. I don't use it, but maybe I should, I was asleep at the line during my last main run recently!!

silvalis - with the VTX10 we don't recommend going that low with a 4wd. The VTX10R is designed to handle lower turn motors. I have run a 7.5 with the VTX10 in a 4wd during our development of the product. But if you are using a lower turn, the VTX10R will handle it better long term.

Rex - thanks for letting Dave win!!!!! Glad you like the system.

Guy- keep working with it, maybe another tooth on the pinion - or add a little boost to hit the top end a little more. Just throwing ideas at you.

No problem! I sent a motor in and it was on its way back in 3 days. Your customer service is outstanding. If you want to, I mean, just sayin, I have no problem being sneaky sneaky lol. :sneaky::sneaky:

I never ran the a19. I really enjoy all the options on the a30 that was installed when I purched my combo.

Thanks again for the quick reply.

I belive I played with in in profile 2. I maybe mistaken. Can I ask why your using profile 1? Isn't that the bliknky mode set up? I know you can change but profile 2 is set up a lot closer to what you would want with the 10.5.

First thing is to set your EPA on your radio to 100% Brake and 100% Throttle, and re-calibrate the ESC.

Once you have done that, make sure that you get a solid F light right before the end of your trigger movement, and a solid R when you are just about at the end of the trigger movement. If they are turning solid very early in the trigger travel, it will feel very aggressive, because you are getting wide open throttle way to early.

This is something that I have seen in a few cases, all of which had a particular radio that would have very un-balanced PPM signals from the receiver (like 200 on the brake side, and like 1000+ on the throttle side, well outside the spec of what the radio manufacturers say it is supposed to be). I have seen LARGE deviations of these signals from receiver to receiver on the same transmitter. And two of the same transmitters on the same receiver will have different PPM signals.

Fortunately it is a easy fix. I just unplug the signal wire from the motor, and use pull the trigger wide open. I then just dial back the EPA on the throttle till the light goes from solid to blinking. Lets say, 74%. I will then just bump it up 4 or 5 points (to 79 in this example). You are now getting full throttle at full trigger. Repeat on the brake side.

There are allot of variables into this, and it all comes down to in-consistent radio issues, but it is a pretty easy solution. The good news is that it will be a very progressive, very smooth setup.