It does have a different sound to it as it spools up. I think its just because of the torque it suddenly is pulling through the system, if I remember right it only happens from a stop or at lower rpms. But mine have always done it - all three that I have run, so its just the norm for that motor.

Thanks for liking the product Sparky - its really you guys on the front line at hobby shops across the country that get the word our about our products. Glad to know they have your covered with the replacement.

Good to hear about some good results. I know a driver I talk to was TQ at the Island Raceway event in NY today - he TQ'd the 13.5 Buggy class, lost the lead 2 laps from the end to a fellow racer running a Viper motor - so I feel bad for Guy, but happy with the result for the company!.

I received a P.M. from Eric today here is my reply.



Eric I do accept your apology. I do understand that you deal with knuckle heads all day long, Some having no business in the hobby. I go through this every day. I did try every solution I could think of. You did think outside the box having me try another motor I dont know why I did not think of this myself. I will continue to sell your product it is a great product. Probably the best dollar for dollar.

Brian McMichael

Very cool of you man....

So been running my 17.5 in 2wd buggy blinky and had no problems keeping up with everyone at the track, then this week all the sudden my car would not clear the back big jump. Nothing changed on anything. I tried gearing up 2 tooth. back down from original 2 tooth. no luck. I switched batteries too. So last resort I swapped out to a loaner motor. Brand "x" was nuts! So much I wanted to buy it from the guy. So my question is do I buy a new rotor and try it or get a whole new motor?

Are viper 1/8th motors due to come in stock any time soon? Trying to decide if i can wait for viper, or have to grab a orion or tekin for my etruggy that is coming together for the summer

Thanks

That is the nature of the magnets on the rotor, is that they will fade with heat, irregardless of who's motor it is.

I was at a race last month that had allot of 17.5 stock buggy in it, and the fast guys in the class were running temps in the 190-200 deg range, and were changing rotors every two runs.

That is the nature of stock racing.

We race on a pretty tight indoor carpet and my temps are usually around 130deg. but you think a new rotor will bring it back to life?

Is there any shims on the rotor on the VX4's (VX4R5.1 specifically)? Took apart mine to compare the internals to a Tenshock, just to see. Found a shim on the carpet, 5x8. Though that could easily be a nitro clutch shim....

Shawn- I haven't taken a VX apart yet (haven't needed to). But that sounds too big for a motor spacer.

stu- yea the new rotor should bring it back to life.

jh- 1/8 stuff is still in development. Hopefully we have more news in a few weeks. We want to make sure we bring a good product to the market.

All electric motors make a high pitched squeal as the frequency of the FET's applies power. This happens in every system and is much more pronounced at start up.

last week i took my viper vtx esc and viper 10.5 out of my sc10 and put them in my XF X6. i've had 3 people not believe that i had a 10.5 motor in my x6 because it was so fast. i'd like to thank viper for your product. i plan on getting another vtx esc and 10.5 combo to put back in my sc10 so i can race both. thanks again viper

My TLR 22 brought home the win at our Spring Cup race this past weekend. Won the race from 2nd on the grid. My Viper VTX10 and 13.5 VST motor were smooth and fast all day long. The race was very close the entire seven minutes. 40 laps with not one marshal touching my car. Thank you Viper for the awesome products. The 2nd and 3rd place car also were running Viper Esc!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5Ey1...ature=youtu.be

It may, or it may not. But that is the course of action I would take.

If there was something wrong with the stator, more than likely it would be shorted and not run at all.

See, the thing with taking temps is that it is a RELATIVE measurement. It is telling you exactly what you are doing, and that is checking the temp of the OUTSIDE of the motor. It is no more relevant than trying to check the temp of the internals on your average family mini-van by measuring the temp of the valve cover on the engine. All you end up knowing is how hot the outside of the motor is.

The motor is an aluminum sleeve, that is packed with a layer of copper wire and 3 iron cores. All that copper is not that good of a heat conductor, so you can have hot spots inside those coils and they are pretty well insulated. Usually the motor is mounted in a car, behind a motor plate, under a transmission, leaving only one spot or two to check. If you could measure multiple places on the motor, you will find that temps will change by 20-40 degrees.

Also you can factor in that there can be a 20-60 degree temp difference from the outside to the inside of the motor. I have had people tell me "It shut off, but is only 140 degrees". I ask how long into the run, and if they reply it took 3 minutes or less, I tell them "The Motor Temp Setting shut it off". They check the setting and it is usually at the factory default of 210 degrees. That is a 60 degree difference. And I trust the temp sensor INSIDE the motor more than any $250 temp gun.

Then factor in things like gearing and timing. If you are over-geared or over-boosted you can end up getting the internals on the motor VERY hot VERY quick, so quick that you can melt/short the inside of the motor before the outside gets over 140 degrees. Once it shorts, THEN the whole thing gets hot.

Troubleshooting blown motors, if the coating on the rotor melted, it is usually over-boosted (timing), if the stator is shorted/melted than it is over-geared.

In my opinion, the biggest killer of motors, especially in spec/stock racing is practice. With today's batteries, people tend to go up on the stand and practice for 20 minutes at a time. Yea, the temp is only 140 degrees on the outside, but you are holding that motor/magnet in a 200-220 degree oven for 20 minutes when you do that.

Bob-
Thanks for the awesome video, that was some close racing. Is that carpet you guys are running on. Also can you share your ESC and motor settings with all of us, thanks and congrats on the win

Eric Kim

Texas RCPRO Round 2 is this weekend. My SCTE will be Viper powered and ready to go fast.

Might even run a qual with the Copperhead R51 or R45. Liking the VTX10R and VST 4.5XL though.