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-   -   Viper RC - (https://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-electronics/455152-viper-rc.html)

bronc4now 02-27-2012 06:28 AM


Originally Posted by bronc4now (Post 10371597)
has anyone else had problems with the esc cutting out mine is acting up ..vtx10r
after big jumps it just shuts motor power off servo works I pull truck off the track and turn the esc off and on again and it works for about a have lap and shuts off again temps were about 135 max


Originally Posted by ekim628 (Post 10372059)
What cut-off settings do you have on your speedo? I have seen this happen when setting are too low or there is a bad connection in the sensor wire port at the motor endbell. Please ensure that there is no dirt inside the sensor port or try using a new sensor cable. Hope this helps

Just wanted to say thanks for the fast help ..they helped me out through pm ..and all I had to do was change my temp settings up a bit ..thanks

MikeFriery 02-27-2012 08:49 AM


Originally Posted by jordy-15 (Post 10387906)
hi guys
i am having a bit of trouble with my both of my ESC's 10 & 10r
when i turn them on after i turn on the radio they will not link but if i turn the radio off then back on while ESC is on they link and this is not just happening to me the same thing happens to a fellow racer. also some times i can not turn them off with the button i have to disconnect the battery.
any idea's
cheers

The ESC's will do that if your throttle trim is not centered (or at the same point it was at when you set the ESC to your radio)

nikos2002 02-28-2012 06:03 AM

wow a whole day with nothing added??

Viper will be at the 1st Round of the 2012 RC Short Course Showdown National Series presented by Scotty Ernst at RCE in Fitchburg MA, March 16-18. Come find us in the Manufactures area during the event.

xrayrc 02-28-2012 06:29 AM


Originally Posted by nikos2002 (Post 10394240)
wow a whole day with nothing added??

Viper will be at the 1st Round of the 2012 RC Short Course Showdown National Series presented by Scotty Ernst at RCE in Fitchburg MA, March 16-18. Come find us in the Manufactures area during the event.

I will be there also if anyone needs help with their products let me know.

Nikos any suggestions on motor for mod sct?
Gonna run that class and stock as well.

Going to start my testing on the copperhead in my scte this week! Woohoo!

Bobby Z 02-28-2012 08:32 AM

My Viper 17.5 has been running strong in my TLR 22 since the fall. Recently the motor has a very strong smell after each run. The motor is still fast and temps are normally between 140 and 160 degrees. Should the odour concern me or is it nothing to worry about? The motor still has this odour today and I raced last Thursday. It's not quite the same smell when an ESC burns up but it is similar.

Also, how do I take the sensor board out of the motor to inspect it further? I have removed the three long screws to pull the motor apart and pull out the rotor. I also took out the three small screws on the end cap.

Jumpinj 02-28-2012 08:52 AM


Originally Posted by Bobby Z (Post 10394794)
My Viper 17.5 has been running strong in my TLR 22 since the fall. Recently the motor has a very strong smell after each run. The motor is still fast and temps are normally between 140 and 160 degrees. Should the odour concern me or is it nothing to worry about? The motor still has this odour today and I raced last Thursday. It's not quite the same smell when an ESC burns up but it is similar.

Also, how do I take the sensor board out of the motor to inspect it further? I have removed the three long screws to pull the motor apart and pull out the rotor. I also took out the three small screws on the end cap.

I had a 8.5 do that. Never overheated but smells like it is toasted. Then started locking up a bit and you had to push the car back and forth fast and it would loosen. Sent it in to viper for warranty. Eric said most likely a bad bearing.

Jumpinj 02-28-2012 08:54 AM

I do have a question for viper though. Are the new vx4 motors rebuildable? Can you replace the sensor boards, bearings, rotor if it gets weak?

opio 02-28-2012 10:22 AM

I see a few posts about the smell, I have been having the same issue. Motor runs great, but there is a bearing sound that I thought was coming from my transmission. If it turns out to not be from the transmission should I send the motor in as it is just at a month old? Or if I tear it down myself would I still be covered under warranty?

Jumpinj 02-28-2012 12:02 PM


Originally Posted by opio (Post 10395257)
I see a few posts about the smell, I have been having the same issue. Motor runs great, but there is a bearing sound that I thought was coming from my transmission. If it turns out to not be from the transmission should I send the motor in as it is just at a month old? Or if I tear it down myself would I still be covered under warranty?


Just send it in if under warranty. I didnt mess with mine, didnt want to take a chance with warranty issues

mdwalsh 02-28-2012 12:11 PM


Originally Posted by Jumpinj (Post 10394898)
I do have a question for viper though. Are the new vx4 motors rebuildable? Can you replace the sensor boards, bearings, rotor if it gets weak?

its a sensorless motor. as for it being rebuild able not sure.

Matt

Jumpinj 02-28-2012 12:38 PM


Originally Posted by mdwalsh (Post 10395689)
its a sensorless motor. as for it being rebuild able not sure.

Matt


I mispoke lol. Meant the wiring. I would like to shorten the wires on mine some. But wont if they can not be lengthened again

FLHX1550 02-28-2012 02:07 PM


Originally Posted by opio (Post 10395257)
I see a few posts about the smell, I have been having the same issue. Motor runs great, but there is a bearing sound that I thought was coming from my transmission. If it turns out to not be from the transmission should I send the motor in as it is just at a month old? Or if I tear it down myself would I still be covered under warranty?

The smell is that of the epoxy on the windings. It's not a sign of anything bad, but it does mean things are warm.

You have to remember, temping the outside of the can will really give you exactly what it is, the temp of the outside of the motor. It really has no true indication of the internal temps in the motor. (the one to worry about is melting the rotor or the epoxy on the wire, which starts to come undone about 300 degrees).

You can have 20-30 degree temp changes inside the motor, and only see 5-10 degree changes on the outside. Especially if you are over geared, because the internals will heat up quicker than it will take to get "too hot" on the temp gun. You can pretty much ad 60-80 degrees to an outside temp to figure what you see internally.

If you get to 140 degrees in 6 or 7 minutes, that is usually ok as long as you don't run 20 minutes. But if you are 140 in 3 minutes, something it wrong.

The 3 ways heat can effect the life of the motor:

Melt the coating off of the rotor

Melt the epoxy on the wire

Prolonged "Heat Cycling" of the magnet - you never got the motor hot enough to melt it down, but eventually the magnet de-sintergrates because of the stress from the heat cycles.

nitro0619 02-28-2012 02:30 PM

Shortening the wires on my copperhead 5150 wont void the warranty or anything correct?

urluzn 02-28-2012 03:54 PM

Wanted give a thanks to Mark Smyka of viper.

Coming back racing with so many product out there to chose from viper seemed like one I wanted to try. This past weekend I was at Maximus raceway running there shoot out race. I had just got the system a week before. Still new to all the adjustment on an esc I saw mark at Maximus and asked he could give me a hand with setup. He first gave me the new firmware and then landed his setup in the esc. His setup landed me 6th in the A main Out of 40 sct. Needless to say I have another system coming this week. I would not hesitate to ask any questions because you get nothing but great results. Thanks again Mark.

Jason Lam

Jumpinj 02-28-2012 07:42 PM

I noticed something strange with my copperhead system tonight. After running a few minutes, it would just cut out. I check the leds and all are flashing. Then it would go back to neutral after a bit and run for a while longer and do it again. The motor and esc were barely warm to the touch. Anyone have any ideas. And i know it is not the battery or lipo cutoff


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