Finally get to go to a track today to practice ! Need to finally see how the Viper setup runs in the Slash 4x4 ..... Also, it'll be a first trying out these ProMatch Lipo batteries..... Anxious to say the least ! Working two jobs and having four kids doesn't make it so easy just to drive 50 miles to a track :tire:

We have seen compared to some similar motors we had little more rpm, so you may need to adjust gearing. Another big thing that helps with temperature is Punch setting. These motors generate so much power, you can actually lower the Punch setting, still get good acceleration, and not waste any power - which can help save motor temperature.

Checking into it, to see if something might have been miss packed. Will PM you with answers I find.

Okay sounds good. was just something odd I noticed in that testing I did that I sent you about.

I do have some good news, was able to go do some carpet racing yesterday in a town about 80 miles away, weather cooperated mostly. Ran a DEX210 in the 2wd buggy 17.5 class with my Viper 17.5 VST motor and the VTX10R BE I have here.

First thing, always start with tires! Really stunk it up in the heats as the car was too twitchy do to lack of grip. Finally settled on going back to the tires I originally wanted to use (slicks) as this was basically onroad running with buggies.

I think I ended up winning the main and the viper motor was quite punchy and delivered, I never felt underpowered considering this isn't the latest and greatest motors.

some guys from the track were interested in picking up the 25.5s shown, but shipping was pretty high. So maybe something can be done about that as there is interest there.

Heck, whish you had a 21.5 of the old series.

Looking forward tohearing how it goes!

Cain - glad to hear some good results!! As for shipping, our sales program does that through connection to different services (UPS, USPS, etc), we do offer free shipping on orders over $99 (excluding Blitz bodies because of the size of the box).

yeah, not sure whats up but they were making it sound like it was something outrageous for 1 motor so they didn't buy.

So maybe I'll give the site and spin and see what I find too, I am thinking if its like standard USPS Priority mail flat rate small box shouldn't be an issue, but if its like $10+ yeah that is probably why. I did tell them though maybe a group buy wold work good.

Oh, and the Viper towel I have worked excellent, kept my gear all in place :)

http://youtu.be/YQFzy4dRVP4
here is the link of the xray truggy

Subscribe :)

Happy happy
 

Thoroughly pleased with my Viper setup, which had tons of power. I may have to bring down the punch a little, and still tweak the suspension further as I couldn't turn on power as tight as I would have liked.
Temps never got over 130, so I can probably go down to a 13 pinion safely.
Big thumbs up on these Pro-match lipos as well (thanks Cain!) I can easily say these are the best I have ever ran and have an unreal burst :D

your welcome. right now just kicking back between what I want for my next set of lipos from them or SMC, but I do like warranties :)

The capacitor board broke on my black edition VTX10 and I've born running the capacitors soldered to the back of the battery posts. Trying to clean up my wiring and was curious is its 100% needed to run them...

Yes you do need to run them - the board is just a "fancy" way of connecting them to the battery posts. You can even replace the whole board/capacitor set if needed --- http://www.shopviperrc.com/ProductDe...ode=6VSPCAP005

any tips on board removal? I kind of oriented my speed control the way I have it in my DEx210 because of the board and how long the cap was, but if I can just solder direct to the posts like I have done with other speedos I woudln't mind that instead, just don't want to mess anything up.

Cain, it's better to use the board if it's there. You can always shorten the wires to the capacitor if needed, making it longer is not efficient for the capacitor. the board is spot "welded" to the tabs. If you use pliers and wiggle it up and down a few times you can get it off. But like I said. I would use the board 99% of the time.

If you do go to solder the capacitor to the battery post just remember to have a good hot iron. Don't leave it on the speedo too long. And make sure there is no overlap so nothing shorts

I actually got better caps that I can use than what is on there, mainly was layout as the way it is for what I got here I can't run it on the side I want.

So will look into that, mainly for doing a shorty center pack setup I am thinking for my buggy :)