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Rody VS Racing Engines - Onroad Motors

Old 10-31-2017, 03:26 AM
  #136  
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Default Break in

Rody which metod of break in you suggest for your engine?
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Old 10-31-2017, 04:11 AM
  #137  
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With that question I also want to know how the EBIS engines were performing.
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Old 10-31-2017, 05:27 AM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by Metrim
Rody which metod of break in you suggest for your engine?
Hi Metrim/Roelof,

I can suggest you the EBIS system without any problems(available on our webshop).

I have run-in with the EBIS system several engines just before the 2017 Worlds in France and am happy with the results.
The performances are the same as we do with the old-school method but the first start and finalizing of the running-in are much more comfortable and for sure less stress on the engines. So I can validate this system.

On a technical point of view. When using this system the piston is adapting itself to the sleeve and you get a nice finish on the part of the piston which is in contact with the sleeve.
However the chrome of the sleeve is not behaving the same as that when the engine is being used. Once you start the engine and you get a real combustion inside the engine(and so temperature fluctuations) the chrome is also adapting on the piston.

I have kept an eye on several engines and checked them frequently and find that the piston/sleeves have a better look then while using the old-school method where the risk of gripping is a little higher then when using the EBIS system. So for sure for the less experienced racers this is a good thing.
Of course this does not mean that you can start the engine and start over-revving it and squeeze all the power out of it immediately.

Hope this has helped you further.
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Old 10-31-2017, 06:06 AM
  #139  
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Interesting, has any test been done to compare the EBIS with lapping?
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Old 10-31-2017, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by NitroVein
Interesting, has any test been done to compare the EBIS with lapping?
Hi NitroVein,

Please be more explicit with what you mean with lapping?
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Old 10-31-2017, 07:33 AM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by VS_Rody
Hi NitroVein,

Please be more explicit with what you mean with lapping?
Using lapping compound between piston/sleeve to mate the surfaces better before break in.
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Old 10-31-2017, 08:03 AM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by NitroVein
Using lapping compound between piston/sleeve to mate the surfaces better before break in.
This is way less accurate because you will not know how much you will take off the piston when lapping, plus you need to clean very very well after this otherwise the piston/sleeve will continue to wear.
Surely not advised for me.
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Old 10-31-2017, 09:01 AM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by VS_Rody
This is way less accurate because you will not know how much you will take off the piston when lapping, plus you need to clean very very well after this otherwise the piston/sleeve will continue to wear.
Surely not advised for me.
Okay, good to know!
I guess if you know how tight it should be, you should be able to stop the lapping in time. But most compounds are harder then the aluminium, so getting that right and cleaning well after would be critical.
I'll stick to regular break in!
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Old 11-02-2017, 09:44 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by VS_Rody
Hi Metrim/Roelof,

I can suggest you the EBIS system without any problems(available on our webshop).

I have run-in with the EBIS system several engines just before the 2017 Worlds in France and am happy with the results.
The performances are the same as we do with the old-school method but the first start and finalizing of the running-in are much more comfortable and for sure less stress on the engines. So I can validate this system.

On a technical point of view. When using this system the piston is adapting itself to the sleeve and you get a nice finish on the part of the piston which is in contact with the sleeve.
However the chrome of the sleeve is not behaving the same as that when the engine is being used. Once you start the engine and you get a real combustion inside the engine(and so temperature fluctuations) the chrome is also adapting on the piston.

I have kept an eye on several engines and checked them frequently and find that the piston/sleeves have a better look then while using the old-school method where the risk of gripping is a little higher then when using the EBIS system. So for sure for the less experienced racers this is a good thing.
Of course this does not mean that you can start the engine and start over-revving it and squeeze all the power out of it immediately.

Hope this has helped you further.
Hello Rody. Can you explain a bit more on how EBIS system works? Like how the engine will be started, what other equipment is needed and how long it takes, etc.. Thanks.
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Old 11-02-2017, 10:53 PM
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Engine break in with these motors is not a process of metal removal.
It is a process whereby the sleeve is stretched into a barrel shape according to the temperature profile from top to bottom. The sealing ring around the piston is just honed by the process.
To prove this to yourself, you can refresh a sleeve where the piston is not shot by heating it (the sleeve) in an oven on max temp for 20-30 minutes or so and then letting it cool.
The sleeve relaxes and recovers somewhat. Often the motor performs even better than new after this.
Or you can just mic the sleeve o.d. before and after break in.

Last edited by JTeamtech; 11-02-2017 at 11:25 PM.
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Old 11-03-2017, 01:56 AM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by snuvet75
Hello Rody. Can you explain a bit more on how EBIS system works? Like how the engine will be started, what other equipment is needed and how long it takes, etc.. Thanks.
EBIS= Easy Break In System
It's a device where we install the engine(without the cooling-head, combustion chamber) and then fill it with oil.
Heat up the oil until around 90C then the engine will be rotated with an electric stepper motor for about 4H

We call this pre-running and we offer this possibility when you purchase an engine on our website.

Then when you receive the engine you can start it like a normal engine, just follow the procedure:

A Pre-Run engine allows easier starting once it is assembled in your car. It is however still advised to pre-heat your engine before each start. So you do not put too much stress on the conrod and to have a piston/sleeve assembly well dilated.

For the VS Racing engines who are pre-run with this system.
Before starting, pre-heat the engine.
When you have started the engine let it idle for 1/2 a tank.
Let it cool down.
Then start the engine again and on the track start setting the engine to its final setting over 4-tanks starting on the rich side and gradually going leaner untill you have reached maximum power at the end of the 4th tank.

You can find more info HERE
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Old 11-03-2017, 04:04 AM
  #147  
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Richard (the guy from EBIS) and I have started our builds at the same time after some talks of how to do it. He made his EBIS and and I my own based on stuff I had lying arround. You can read the build, the results and the discussions here:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/onroad-n...h-machine.html
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Old 11-03-2017, 04:54 PM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by JTeamtech
Engine break in with these motors is not a process of metal removal.
It is a process whereby the sleeve is stretched into a barrel shape according to the temperature profile from top to bottom. The sealing ring around the piston is just honed by the process.
To prove this to yourself, you can refresh a sleeve where the piston is not shot by heating it (the sleeve) in an oven on max temp for 20-30 minutes or so and then letting it cool.
The sleeve relaxes and recovers somewhat. Often the motor performs even better than new after this.
Or you can just mic the sleeve o.d. before and after break in.
never heard of this before does this work when the engine has lost some
compresion instead of a liner pinch?
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Old 11-03-2017, 06:14 PM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by VS_Rody
EBIS= Easy Break In System
It's a device where we install the engine(without the cooling-head, combustion chamber) and then fill it with oil.
Heat up the oil until around 90C then the engine will be rotated with an electric stepper motor for about 4H

We call this pre-running and we offer this possibility when you purchase an engine on our website.

Then when you receive the engine you can start it like a normal engine, just follow the procedure:

A Pre-Run engine allows easier starting once it is assembled in your car. It is however still advised to pre-heat your engine before each start. So you do not put too much stress on the conrod and to have a piston/sleeve assembly well dilated.

For the VS Racing engines who are pre-run with this system.
Before starting, pre-heat the engine.
When you have started the engine let it idle for 1/2 a tank.
Let it cool down.
Then start the engine again and on the track start setting the engine to its final setting over 4-tanks starting on the rich side and gradually going leaner untill you have reached maximum power at the end of the 4th tank.

You can find more info HERE
Yeah I read that in your web last night and thought it didn't make any sense that EBIS is only $60 to purchase. It looked just a little bit more expensive than $60. Didn't read the "Pre-Run Service" part. LOL
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Old 11-03-2017, 08:23 PM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by VS_Rody
EBIS= Easy Break In System
It's a device where we install the engine(without the cooling-head, combustion chamber) and then fill it with oil.
Heat up the oil until around 90C then the engine will be rotated with an electric stepper motor for about 4H

We call this pre-running and we offer this possibility when you purchase an engine on our website.

Then when you receive the engine you can start it like a normal engine, just follow the procedure:

A Pre-Run engine allows easier starting once it is assembled in your car. It is however still advised to pre-heat your engine before each start. So you do not put too much stress on the conrod and to have a piston/sleeve assembly well dilated.

For the VS Racing engines who are pre-run with this system.
Before starting, pre-heat the engine.
When you have started the engine let it idle for 1/2 a tank.
Let it cool down.
Then start the engine again and on the track start setting the engine to its final setting over 4-tanks starting on the rich side and gradually going leaner untill you have reached maximum power at the end of the 4th tank.

You can find more info HERE
rody when u say finish the process over the next 4 tanks, do u mean 4 tanks in a row or cooling in between each tank then reheating and starting?
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