Ninja Engine by GRP
#1008
cdelong is correct.
The ninja plugs are tapered more than novarossi / O.S. glow plugs. That means when you use a different plug other than the ninja plug, you just opened up the button a little more than it was made for; possibly causing an airleak.
The ninja plugs are tapered more than novarossi / O.S. glow plugs. That means when you use a different plug other than the ninja plug, you just opened up the button a little more than it was made for; possibly causing an airleak.
#1009
a sirio is about the same.
but the best plug is the ninja's,ya ya i know some ppl say umm well stuff but it really is true,the motor just runs better.
#1010
Thanks for all the info guys. I guess that we will have to try to get some Ninja plugs into our LHS. What # are you recomending? Its not that the pinch is gone because it will die even before it gets up to temp. It really doesnt matter if it is hot or cold, it just dies.
#1011
Thanks for all the info guys. I guess that we will have to try to get some Ninja plugs into our LHS. What # are you recomending? Its not that the pinch is gone because it will die even before it gets up to temp. It really doesnt matter if it is hot or cold, it just dies.
Is there any resistance at TDC when you remove the plug? Does it roll over easily with the plug in?
Is the piston dome tan, brown or sanded looking?
#1012
Throw away all your NovaRossi experience with these engines guy's..... the combustion chamer shape/depth and button depth in the cylinder is vastly different from Nova engines.
I normally roll over and get 0.028" clearance on a Nova with 0.7mm of shims. With 0.55mm of shims on the Ninja, you won't even touch 0.050" solder to check the clearance. Just go with the 0.55mm of shimming recommended by Mike for the initial break-in and then drop it by 0.1mm after it loosens up.
I normally roll over and get 0.028" clearance on a Nova with 0.7mm of shims. With 0.55mm of shims on the Ninja, you won't even touch 0.050" solder to check the clearance. Just go with the 0.55mm of shimming recommended by Mike for the initial break-in and then drop it by 0.1mm after it loosens up.
0.050" is 1.27mm!!!, which seems a lot of head clearance to me....
According to your statement, you even have a head clearance of atleast 0.72mm (1.27-0.55), without any shims installed.
Is this correct?
#1016

Yeah but still, you don't need that kind of crap happening on it's 3rd meet!
I feel for you !!
#1017
Your liner broke between the intake ports, this made the damage.....
The strange thing though, I've seen this before, but always on the exhaust side, not the intake......
Or is your liner still intact?
#1018
My idea goes thru the path that M7H suggested, but... wanted to teardown an R01 just to see where you got the damage.
Time for a complete teardown of the engine and a very scrupulous inspection of the bearings, my idea is that some kind of cr*p went thru the sleeve and got trapped by the smaller square boost ports you have at the front sides of the sleeve, disassemble completelly and inspect for damage on the port that runs over that area, much probably you'll find something.
Could be a small part of bearing, remove the main bearing and inspect it.
That hurts!. Look at the first photo and you could see what seems a hole thru the piston skirt... amazing.
More details about the carnage? Fuel? Operating temp...
Time for a complete teardown of the engine and a very scrupulous inspection of the bearings, my idea is that some kind of cr*p went thru the sleeve and got trapped by the smaller square boost ports you have at the front sides of the sleeve, disassemble completelly and inspect for damage on the port that runs over that area, much probably you'll find something.
Could be a small part of bearing, remove the main bearing and inspect it.
That hurts!. Look at the first photo and you could see what seems a hole thru the piston skirt... amazing.
More details about the carnage? Fuel? Operating temp...
#1019
fuel 25% oil 10% temp 110-115C*
Last edited by Nitro$junkie; 07-16-2007 at 08:40 AM.



