first off, I never bashed Mugen. You guys have been helpful to me. I came on here to look for help to see if anyone knew where I could buy replacement parts. So maintence is no issue. The gasket not gaskets wasnt that bad first off. I think the carb. would have a greater effect on the engine than a gasket. As for stripped gears that one problem with the car that needs attention, but I never ran 3 mains with a stripped 2nd gear. I ran 1 main like that with the stock ninja, & I ran another main with a stripped gear, but that was with your engine Harry. When gears were stripped during a qual. I always pulled the car off the track. You know how many times I stripped gears so its hard not to keep running because you haven't had the chance to really run at all. As for the Tuned engine it was a brand new engine. It was running fine at 230F like I said before, but the carb. came loose. I'm not the only one that its happened to so I'm not saying anything different from anyone else. I'm not here to argue on these forums. I'm here to find out solutions to problems I'm having with the car & what places have stock for these engines.

first off, I never bashed Mugen. You guys have been helpful to me. I came on here to look for help to see if anyone knew where I could buy replacement parts. So maintence is no issue. The gasket wasnt that bad first off. I think the carb. would have a greater effect on the engine than a gasket. As for stripped gears that one problem with the car that needs attention. I never ran 3 Mains on a stripped 2nd gear. I ran 1 main like that with the stock ninja, & another main with stripped 2nd gear, but that was with your engine Harry. Obviously you didn't have a problem with that when it happened. When gears would strip in a qual. I always took the car off the track. You know how many times I stripped gears so its hard not to keep running because you haven't had the chance to really run at all. As for the Tuned engine it was a brand new engine. It was running fine at 230F like I said before, but the carb. came loose. I'm not the only one that its happened to so I'm not saying anything different from anyone else. I'm not here to argue on these forums. I'm here to find out solutions to problems I'm having with the car & what places have stock for these engines.

Also Harry,

You told me to send the engines to Mugen & I did. Why would you tell me to send the engines to Mugen if they werent going to help me. Also, I just found out that there is no warranty for these engines. Atleast thats what it says on the CD-rom that comes with the engines. So why are you talking like this to me. I was hoping that they would help me since you helped me with a sponsorship.

In the end when it comes down to it you will always have to do maintence on engines & rc. Its a never ending story. So maintence is no issue for me.

this i think is a cool pipe.

and just to say about the carb problem some have, my clamp bolt clamps very nice,but i did notice that the carb needs to be sealed to prevent leaking, so the motor wont run lean or erotic.
come to think of it all my motors iv run the o rings kinda sucked
sirio
novarossi
os

Hi guys, I need some help here.Own a R01 and I am confused about the head clearance.My question is,should the shim thickness in total to be 0.6mm or shim it so that the clearance at 0.6mm when TDC.

Running 25% Tornado Fuel with Ninja Pipe. Currently running 0.4mm shim thickness and have a head clearance of 0.95mm.I used a solder lead and turn the flywheel over to get the 0.95mm clearance after measuring the squeeze solder lead.Am I doing it right?

i run 20 tornado and i run it stock but if i run 30 i add the shim that came with the motor
on a short track you can get away with the stock shimming with 25 but on a big track you have to add a shim.

Thanks for the info.The problem is when I buy the engine it came without any extra shim.There is only one 0.1mm copper shim already install on the engine.May I know the thickness of the extra shim.

.15 i think
and you say .1 is that .10mm

i just looked at my sheets of last year,
with 25% i ran a .15 shim
and with 16 or 20 i ran a .10 shim
30% both
you always run the alm shim.

i think all motor comp use the same shim thicknesses

When talking about shims, it is always reffered to the total amount of head clearance.

0.95 is to much, your engine probably doesn't have a lot of bottom power.....
Run the engine with an head clearance between 0.6 - 0.7mm

Measuring with solder is a possibility, I always do it this way. (if possible due to the engine's pinch)
Take out your plug, rotate the flywheel until your piston is in TDC.
Unscrew the engines head and burnroom.
Measure the distance between top of piston and top of liner.
Make the same measurement for your burnroom (without any shim)
Now you know the headclearance your engine has, without any shims installed.
(should be 0.55mm, concluded from your story)

Thanks alot for the explanation I got the picture now.What you say is true the engine does not have any bottom punch.I thought its the engine powerband that makes it like that.

Will go back and reshim my engine and see how it perform.Do you think its because of the engine head clearance at 0.95mm cause the con rod to fail in less than 1 gallon of fuel as I have posted it on this forum before.

About the conrod failure, no I don't think so, because normally you would see conrod failures if the head clearance is too low.... I think you just had bad luck with the conrod....
But maybe because of the big head clearance you needed to put in quite a hot plug to keep the engine running, which on his turn might do some harm... don't know....

I don't know the Ninja engine in detail, but 0.55mm head clearance without any shims installed seems a bit high to me...
It is possible offcourse, but most engines I've run, Nova based, Picco based, have a headclearance of somewhere between -0.5 to 0.25 mm (with -0.5 I mean that without any shim, the piston hits the headbutton)

you want head clearance from .46 to .57 thats 18thousance to 22 thousands of an in.
but i have run a motor with lower clearance and got better low end but you do risk detonation, and the top of the piston looking like the moon,pitting,
after 1G run in did any 1 change the con rod, i always do when i can get one.

Dear all,

Wanted to know whether or not anyone has the full parts listing for the Ninja R01.

Looking for all the parts required for a full P+S+R set for this engine including wrist pins etc. and all parts numbers. Could anyone help out? I am unable to find the required cat. #s anywhere where I am ATM.

Thanks in advance.