Just an update on the carb. popping out syndrome. I ran a 3 day race this weekend which put my carb to a serious test. And after 3 days of burning hot track temps, the carb never came out. So, I consider this a good fix.

Now, if I can only get my motor tuned right. I was running #6 plugs in my ninja .12 and couldn't get the tune right for the hottest part of the day. Which way should I have tried, #5 or #7? I was leaning out and loosing power. Temp was fine, just no smoke and not much power. I made it a little fatter on the top and bottom which was better but not as great as it was in the morning. Kept going fatter but then just lost power. Thanks for any advice.

what nitro% are you running
i run 20 and when it gets really hot out ill try a 7 but normally i run a 6 and the thing is fast and its a smoke machine

I was running Mugen 30% and it's shimmed for it. I bought some Maxy's 25% that I wanted to try for the main but I couldn't do it. I've never tried it before and I couldn't risk it. Maybe I should of... Thanks for letting me know about the #7 though.

30% is hard to tune for
the max i do now is 25%
but if you like 30% run a 7 most of the time.

Heard that. Thanks alot.

Ran my new MR21-Ro1T in today and from what I've experienced so far is that this engine will be the fastest thing that I've ever drive in my 1/8 scale. Can't wait to unleash it at our State titles in a few weeks. They are an expensive motor but well worth the dollars you pay.

And what engines do you have experience with then?

Throw away all your NovaRossi experience with these engines guy's..... the combustion chamer shape/depth and button depth in the cylinder is vastly different from Nova engines.

I normally roll over and get 0.028" clearance on a Nova with 0.7mm of shims. With 0.55mm of shims on the Ninja, you won't even touch 0.050" solder to check the clearance. Just go with the 0.55mm of shimming recommended by Mike for the initial break-in and then drop it by 0.1mm after it loosens up.

As for the rod failures.... it not the compression stack causing rod wear and failure. I posted months ago what the problem was/is and it still exists today. Search back and maybe you'll find it. It is disputed by some facory sponsored guys, but what do you expect them to say?? Specifics are posted way back, but basically the QC tolerances and rod clearances leave a lot to be desired (not to mention there's no bushing on the top end of the rod)

Yes, the Ninja engines are cheap, but for a reason.... you get what you pay for. I'd much rather fork over $600 for a 359 kit with two engines in the box that will last forever

but they wont last forever.

the statement was for comparison sake Wally...... The 35+'s and 359's will last way longer than the Ninja's and with much less maintenance. I can easily go three gallons on a Nova rod. You guy's can barely get past break in with these Ninja's. After two gallons (rods) you might have well as bought a 35+..... if you're lucky enough not to scatter it first.

You were right next to me at the Gas Nat's. A few weeks before, Chris Bramford couldn't run his main due to exactly what I'm talking about here..... and your buddies were even commenting they were getting tired of replacing the rods so often. It's not a myth.....

Don't worry about the oracle of poor advice. (wally) Anybody that can average almost 6 posts a day for over a year....... nuff said

Other experience have I had with other motors. Well several different Novas, 35plus21's, a messina edition JP ( engine was for a team driver), and standard and moddified Ninjas.

Automoton, au·tom·a·ton

definition:

somebody who acts like machine: somebody who behaves like a machine in emotionlessly obeying instructions and performing repetitive actions on behalf of Mugen.

Hey guys, a friend of mine has a ninja .21 that has 4 gallons on it. He just replaced the bearings, put a new rod in it and sealed it up again yet it seems to have an air leak somewhere and we cant figure out were its coming from. The motor will just ramndomly die for no aparent reason. He is running stock head shimming, O.S. P3 glow plug with 30% Sidewinder and it comes of the track at around 280 or so. Can anyone shed some light on the probable cause of our frustration. Thanks

1,the plug is wrong
2,i will say the fuel but maybe not.
3,did did he take the carb off and not change the o rings that seal the carb,if not id change them.
but you should really us a ninja plug with these ninjas.