Ninja Engine by GRP

Old 07-03-2007, 01:37 PM
  #961  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 14
Default

Hello fellow racers,

I been watching this forum for sometime now because I own 2 Ninja motors. The MR12-t01a & MR12-t01t. They are both really new engines. The stock one I raced it 4 times. The tuned one raced once. I got help breaking both engines in from local team drivers Roger Serafin & Kevin Jelich. During the break-in process you can tell that both engines are very strong & drivable, but after 4 full races on my stock version the front bearing is no good & the rod needs changing. I can tell because of the top of the piston the detenation spot is off center. It even runs down the side of the piston. It seems like alot of this new engines that its a good idea to change the stock bearings.As for the new version,I was told by Harry Hananuchi not to use the mag. head, but to use the stock head because the factory drivers are having a hard time with tune. The motor was bentched tuned then put on track for practice. I ran it at 230F so that was good enough for me. Then went out for qual. & the tune changed on me. It became so rich so I just used qual. for tuning again, but still engine to rich. Next qual. engine became better but still lacked low end punch. Low end was leaned alittle. Next qual. engine seemed good during warm up, but after coming in for fuel the engine went crazy like it had a air leak. The temp. was over 350f. Harry richened both needles, poured fuel on engine to cool it down, changed glow plug, & tried starting again but engine was shot. I took it out of the car to check it. The rod stretched so much that the bushing came off the rod. I sent both motors to Mugen & was told that they could not help me with anything. They said all I need is new rods for the motors. So I asked if they could hook a brotha up with new ones, but they said nope. I have to order from the LHS I got the engines. The support for these Ninja 12's is lacking, & I can't find anywhere online or LHS that carries parts in-stock. I'm not trying to bash this engine, but damn can I get alittle help.
lreid727 is offline  
Old 07-03-2007, 01:41 PM
  #962  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 14
Default

I forgot to mention that when Mugen had my engines they found out that the carb. on the t01t was loose.
lreid727 is offline  
Old 07-03-2007, 02:00 PM
  #963  
Tech Elite
 
wallyedmonds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Brampton ont canada
Posts: 3,662
Default

what % nitro are you running,what plug,what head shim,
and how did you break in the motors,
it sounds like you had a problem from the start.
wallyedmonds is offline  
Old 07-03-2007, 05:04 PM
  #964  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 511
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by lreid727
I forgot to mention that when Mugen had my engines they found out that the carb. on the t01t was loose.
well theres your problem. it was probably the reason for all the damage as well. I also had my carb come loose on me when i first ran my t01a. i think the carbs dont come tightened well from the factory so they come loose if you didnt check it before racing. there was another person at my track who had the same problem that day, as well as a couple of people in this thread who said something about it. fortunately I can say that I havent had this problem anymore once i tightened it down really good. sorry you didnt catch that problem before damage was done though
randay is offline  
Old 07-03-2007, 08:50 PM
  #965  
Tech Elite
 
wallyedmonds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Brampton ont canada
Posts: 3,662
Default

yes the bolt for the carb comes loose from the factory,mine was almost off,but dont all motors come this way.
wallyedmonds is offline  
Old 07-03-2007, 08:56 PM
  #966  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (8)
 
Ryan41's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 635
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by lreid727
Hello fellow racers,

I been watching this forum for sometime now because I own 2 Ninja motors. The MR12-t01a & MR12-t01t. They are both really new engines. The stock one I raced it 4 times. The tuned one raced once. I got help breaking both engines in from local team drivers Roger Serafin & Kevin Jelich. During the break-in process you can tell that both engines are very strong & drivable, but after 4 full races on my stock version the front bearing is no good & the rod needs changing. I can tell because of the top of the piston the detenation spot is off center. It even runs down the side of the piston. It seems like alot of this new engines that its a good idea to change the stock bearings.As for the new version,I was told by Harry Hananuchi not to use the mag. head, but to use the stock head because the factory drivers are having a hard time with tune. The motor was bentched tuned then put on track for practice. I ran it at 230F so that was good enough for me. Then went out for qual. & the tune changed on me. It became so rich so I just used qual. for tuning again, but still engine to rich. Next qual. engine became better but still lacked low end punch. Low end was leaned alittle. Next qual. engine seemed good during warm up, but after coming in for fuel the engine went crazy like it had a air leak. The temp. was over 350f. Harry richened both needles, poured fuel on engine to cool it down, changed glow plug, & tried starting again but engine was shot. I took it out of the car to check it. The rod stretched so much that the bushing came off the rod. I sent both motors to Mugen & was told that they could not help me with anything. They said all I need is new rods for the motors. So I asked if they could hook a brotha up with new ones, but they said nope. I have to order from the LHS I got the engines. The support for these Ninja 12's is lacking, & I can't find anywhere online or LHS that carries parts in-stock. I'm not trying to bash this engine, but damn can I get alittle help.

Sounds liek you are having similar problems to my RO1T. Mine is on its way back to the Mugen distributer here, and so far all seems good for warranty.

When it returns I will also be running my standard head..as the magnesium one seems to be nothing but trouble at the moment.. head can read 50degrees celcius..but the plug could be at 140 degrees celcius if your not careful.

Ryan41 is offline  
Old 07-04-2007, 01:35 AM
  #967  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 14
Default

I broke in motors on 20% bryons & still added extra copper shim b/c after breakin I changed to 30%. After break in I changed the plug to a #7 b/c that was the only plug I hadd access to from LHS. Both motors were broken in using Mike S. method. As for the carbs., I know that any engine you buy you should tighten them down. Believe me that before I ran my first tank of fuel I tightened the carb.. I maybe a rookie on this forum, but I'm not a rookie to racing these cars. I know of other racers having problems with the carbs. loosing. I also witnessed recently Harry Hananuchi .21 motor blow a front bearing. I know that there is alot of factors that come into play when dealing with these products. Its just hard spending big bucks, & things like this happen.
lreid727 is offline  
Old 07-04-2007, 03:19 AM
  #968  
Tech Elite
 
wallyedmonds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Brampton ont canada
Posts: 3,662
Default

Originally Posted by lreid727
I broke in motors on 20% bryons & still added extra copper shim b/c after breakin I changed to 30%. After break in I changed the plug to a #7 b/c that was the only plug I hadd access to from LHS. Both motors were broken in using Mike S. method. As for the carbs., I know that any engine you buy you should tighten them down. Believe me that before I ran my first tank of fuel I tightened the carb.. I maybe a rookie on this forum, but I'm not a rookie to racing these cars. I know of other racers having problems with the carbs. loosing. I also witnessed recently Harry Hananuchi .21 motor blow a front bearing. I know that there is alot of factors that come into play when dealing with these products. Its just hard spending big bucks, & things like this happen.
true
and thats whats good about coming on here to see what to look out for
im gona keep checking my carb to see if its on good more often.
wallyedmonds is offline  
Old 07-04-2007, 07:48 AM
  #969  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
JetMD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Richmond VA
Posts: 1,172
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

My carb was coming loose a lot on me. It wasn't the pinch bolt loosening up, it turned out to be the pinch bolt didn't have enough pinch in it. So, I shortened the curved ends like someone on here suggested and cranked it down, and it hasn't come loose since.
JetMD is offline  
Old 07-04-2007, 10:06 AM
  #970  
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,087
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

My carb was coming loose a lot on me. It wasn't the pinch bolt loosening up, it turned out to be the pinch bolt didn't have enough pinch in it. So, I shortened the curved ends like someone on here suggested and cranked it down, and it hasn't come loose since.
Can anyone shoot a couple pics or make a quick "tutorial" in MS Paint on what you guys did? Im having trouble visualizing it.

-Thanks
thunderbt3 is offline  
Old 07-04-2007, 10:18 AM
  #971  
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
 
Wolverini's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Wheatfields of Oz
Posts: 1,552
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

It's simple really. The two pieces that you bolt together to retain the carb are rumored to touch each other when you tighten it. The reports have been to take those two pieces and remove some of the material on the surfaces that touch. Essentially you're allowing the two pieces to come closer together to increase the holding power to the carb. I hope that explains it well enough.
Wolverini is offline  
Old 07-04-2007, 11:26 PM
  #972  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (14)
 
PROVK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 980
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

I have always run novarossi engines and they have treated me well.

I have just recently bought a Kondo Custom mod MRT01A and have run her in on the bench swauger method.

I will be racing this weekend.
Hearing all the above about low bottom end grunt and reliability problems eg carbies popping off and bearings failing doesnt give me confidence

I will give you all feedback after the weekend
PROVK is offline  
Old 07-05-2007, 04:33 AM
  #973  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
JetMD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Richmond VA
Posts: 1,172
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by thunderbt3
Can anyone shoot a couple pics or make a quick "tutorial" in MS Paint on what you guys did? Im having trouble visualizing it.

-Thanks
Ok, i'm no artist and this is a really bad picture but...Basically, you are trimming off the pink part. The green represents the bolt and as you tighten, the other 2 pieces come together and squeeze the carb. If those 2 pieces are too long, you won't get a good squeeze even though the bolt is tight. So, when you trim a little off them and tighten the bolt, it will be squeezing the carb and not just squeezing together. Those 2 pieces are soft (maybe aluminum) so be careful when trimming. I used a belt sander and it sanded off really fast. Good luck!
Attached Images
File Type: bmp
pinch.bmp (144.1 KB, 216 views)

Last edited by JetMD; 07-05-2007 at 04:47 AM.
JetMD is offline  
Old 07-05-2007, 08:49 AM
  #974  
Tech Adept
 
Wild Tiger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Australia
Posts: 187
Default

Ok, i'm no artist and this is a really bad picture but...Basically, you are trimming off the pink part. The green represents the bolt and as you tighten, the other 2 pieces come together and squeeze the carb. If those 2 pieces are too long, you won't get a good squeeze even though the bolt is tight. So, when you trim a little off them and tighten the bolt, it will be squeezing the carb and not just squeezing together. Those 2 pieces are soft (maybe aluminum) so be careful when trimming. I used a belt sander and it sanded off really fast. Good luck!
Well said and well explained, you're right-you're no artist, but the drawing does the job, even I get it !!
Wild Tiger is offline  
Old 07-05-2007, 12:41 PM
  #975  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Hare's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: San Mateo,Ca
Posts: 160
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by lreid727
Hello fellow racers,

I been watching this forum for sometime now because I own 2 Ninja motors. The MR12-t01a & MR12-t01t. They are both really new engines. The stock one I raced it 4 times. The tuned one raced once. I got help breaking both engines in from local team drivers Roger Serafin & Kevin Jelich. During the break-in process you can tell that both engines are very strong & drivable, but after 4 full races on my stock version the front bearing is no good & the rod needs changing. I can tell because of the top of the piston the detenation spot is off center. It even runs down the side of the piston. It seems like alot of this new engines that its a good idea to change the stock bearings.As for the new version,I was told by Harry Hananuchi not to use the mag. head, but to use the stock head because the factory drivers are having a hard time with tune. The motor was bentched tuned then put on track for practice. I ran it at 230F so that was good enough for me. Then went out for qual. & the tune changed on me. It became so rich so I just used qual. for tuning again, but still engine to rich. Next qual. engine became better but still lacked low end punch. Low end was leaned alittle. Next qual. engine seemed good during warm up, but after coming in for fuel the engine went crazy like it had a air leak. The temp. was over 350f. Harry richened both needles, poured fuel on engine to cool it down, changed glow plug, & tried starting again but engine was shot. I took it out of the car to check it. The rod stretched so much that the bushing came off the rod. I sent both motors to Mugen & was told that they could not help me with anything. They said all I need is new rods for the motors. So I asked if they could hook a brotha up with new ones, but they said nope. I have to order from the LHS I got the engines. The support for these Ninja 12's is lacking, & I can't find anywhere online or LHS that carries parts in-stock. I'm not trying to bash this engine, but damn can I get alittle help.
Hey Layman ~

3 words for you Maintance, maintance, maintance!
If you want people to help you here, you need to tell them everything. Maybe like your header gaskets were leaking really bad, stripped 2nd gear in the last 3 mains that you ran.I told you about the gaskets but you still ran it? You also tryed finishing the mains with a stripped 2nd gear, now that can't be good for a rod?
Don't start bashing a company and there motor because of your stupidity and lack of maintance! If you had ran any other motor company like what you just did, the results would have been the same!
Loose carb? Any ONE of these 3 things would have caused your motor to go lean, but you had All 3!!! ROOKIE!!!

Harry

Last edited by Hare; 07-05-2007 at 12:55 PM.
Hare is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Your Privacy Choices -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.