Ninja Engine by GRP
06-03-2007 | 07:29 AM
#841
Tech Addict
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 738
From: moo moo
Have you checked the combustion chamber height? how high came it? still come too low or ir a thing that has been fixed on the new units? My last R01A came slightly higher than the original R01's.
I have still some very nice STi's but.. planning to get a T01 on the next weeks.
I have still some very nice STi's but.. planning to get a T01 on the next weeks.
but after the run in today, interior of the MRT still look like new
06-03-2007 | 05:00 PM
#843
Hi all,
Something really wierd happened today. Picked up a new Ninja .21, Murnan modified full ceramic, pre-run in...Ran great, did 1.5 litres through it on the first day out without leaning the top or bottom end too far out. The engine ran fine all day. Took it home to check out the internals for the first time to make sure everything was ok and I found something wierd had happened.
There were two 5mm long triangular shards of metal in the crankcase...but no other evidence internal damage whatsoever. It seems that the pieces had not been bouncing around either as the inside of the case and other internals looked fine. The pieces turned out to be from the bottom of the exhaust port side of the piston. That has not happened before with my other .21 Ninjas. I guess that I will have to replace the damn thing as the balance will be all out etc. etc.
Anyone had a similar problem with a Ninja? Plain wierd considering the engine was not run hard in the slightest and still on the rich side...
Something really wierd happened today. Picked up a new Ninja .21, Murnan modified full ceramic, pre-run in...Ran great, did 1.5 litres through it on the first day out without leaning the top or bottom end too far out. The engine ran fine all day. Took it home to check out the internals for the first time to make sure everything was ok and I found something wierd had happened.
There were two 5mm long triangular shards of metal in the crankcase...but no other evidence internal damage whatsoever. It seems that the pieces had not been bouncing around either as the inside of the case and other internals looked fine. The pieces turned out to be from the bottom of the exhaust port side of the piston. That has not happened before with my other .21 Ninjas. I guess that I will have to replace the damn thing as the balance will be all out etc. etc.
Anyone had a similar problem with a Ninja? Plain wierd considering the engine was not run hard in the slightest and still on the rich side...
06-03-2007 | 05:54 PM
#844
Tech Initiate
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 21
From: UK
Corse and Uriah thanks for the info.
The piston was not at BDC when the backplate was removed to the best of my knowledge, HOWEVER as the sleeve and the engine interior is in perfect condition and the broken pieces had not been smashed into many small pieces I believe that the piston must have come back down while I was removing the backplate and as Uriah said, broke the side of the piston. Cannot be anything else I guess!
If anyone is considering the Murnan tuned R01 it is very reliable with a great powerband, I would definitely recommend it
The piston was not at BDC when the backplate was removed to the best of my knowledge, HOWEVER as the sleeve and the engine interior is in perfect condition and the broken pieces had not been smashed into many small pieces I believe that the piston must have come back down while I was removing the backplate and as Uriah said, broke the side of the piston. Cannot be anything else I guess!
If anyone is considering the Murnan tuned R01 it is very reliable with a great powerband, I would definitely recommend it
06-04-2007 | 04:21 PM
#846
Tech Elite
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,662
From: Brampton ont canada
No Mike, the MR.12 kit with the pipe is € 320 (420 USD).
When I look around at US shops, the difference between NR and Ninja .12's is also 20-30 bucks, not that much, right?
Btw, I just found the Plus 12-3 for €269, which is actually cheaper than the MR12.
NR Plus 12-3
When I lived in the States it was the distributors that messed up the prices for engines, especially Trinity when they had the monopoly.
I know that the European importer have been putting pressure on NR and it seems to have an effect.
When I look around at US shops, the difference between NR and Ninja .12's is also 20-30 bucks, not that much, right?
Btw, I just found the Plus 12-3 for €269, which is actually cheaper than the MR12.
NR Plus 12-3
When I lived in the States it was the distributors that messed up the prices for engines, especially Trinity when they had the monopoly.
I know that the European importer have been putting pressure on NR and it seems to have an effect.
06-04-2007 | 04:27 PM
#847
Tech Elite
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,662
From: Brampton ont canada
you have to use there plugs if you want the button to stay good longer.
06-04-2007 | 05:12 PM
#848
06-04-2007 | 07:31 PM
#849
Tech Elite
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,662
From: Brampton ont canada
ya all motor comps have there theory on that to make there motor run better faster stronger
we can rebuild it
and its not just the taper its the length of it too.
06-05-2007 | 12:22 AM
#850
Tech Elite
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,198
From: The Netherlands
06-05-2007 | 12:25 AM
#851
Tech Elite
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,198
From: The Netherlands
06-05-2007 | 08:16 AM
#852
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,527
From: Harwood, MD
06-06-2007 | 11:15 AM
#853
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 804
From: Chandler, AZ
Hello I’m new to Nitro and I’m ordering plugs for my new MR12 T01A and I wanted to double check on a couple things.
What % nitro should I run? Everyone locally has told me 30% ??
Also should I run a #6 or #7 Ninja plug if I want to run 30% nitro?
What % nitro should I run? Everyone locally has told me 30% ??
Also should I run a #6 or #7 Ninja plug if I want to run 30% nitro?
06-06-2007 | 02:24 PM
#855
Tech Elite
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,121
From: Madrid (Spain)
Get a pair of #6 and a pair of #7 and try for yourself, here people running them is biased between those two. Cannot give you a sure answer, but, the ones I tried (and liked it...) went with a #7 plug.