Shimming:

Use the stock shimming 0.8 mm during break-in no matter if you run 16, 20, 25 or 30% nitro during that period.

more air leads to more fuel...great for break in.

Why would you do that?

The real question is why wouldn't you?

The starter boxes have no issues turning over an engine with high compression but some do however have issues pushing through the mechanical pinch. Raising or lowering compression wont have any impact on said mechanical pinch. I dont understand the purpose of running 30% nitro through an engine when it is shimmed for 20% to begin with (whatever the case may be, just an example).

the mechanical pinch couple with high compression puts a little bit of added stress on rod and crank pin during breaking... so we are able to reduce one and not the other.. its allot easier to break in an engine with stock shimming, like you said if its shimmed already why change it right?

Most important thing in break in is pre-heat. The extra shim is to reduce compression so it wont wear the internal parts. Maybe some pro can comment

Most important thing in break in is pre-heat. The extra shim is to reduce compression so it wont wear the internal parts. Maybe some pro can comment

So I scored a deal on a Rex Paloma .21 Limited Edition. Being it's a 7 port, is this engine better suited for buggy or truggy?

Novarossis isn't shimmed for 20% nitro but for 30% (0.8mm). Use 0.7 mm with 25% nitro after break-in. They are not designed for 20% nitro.

It come with toro nero team p/s/c and silicon filled crank shaft, i think will suit both depends on ur throttle control liking

Yea, I think you missed the boat on this one. My point was not to change the shims that they come with and to break them in as they were intended to run. As for what they were designed to run on, that matters not.

Hey All,
It most likely has been said but I've been away from the Nitro forum for a little while play with RC toys (EP).
Three race days ago awaiting on a lapped engine to arrive I pulled the Clio P5 out of my 7 buggy and fitted it to the 7T-ruggy with the 41021/2096 geared 13/44 (std 13/46). Expecting it to get me thru for the time being I was well surprised to find it was a great truggy engine. Maybe not suited to high grip or sugared tracks but great for med grip or less. Strong smooth power and has the legs down longs straights.

M.Ellis

We have a WC with 5 gallons of bones fuel ran through it and for the last 3 races this motor has been driving me crazy. Starts and idles great, about 6 minutes into a race it falls on its face, no bottom end no top end, when he brings it in it won't stay running and then its hard to start. I have installed new fuel tank and lines, new clutch, new 9901 pipe. Can anyone help or is it time to install the new keep off?
Doug

What you are describing indicates:
engine runs great when not completely race-warm
then when heats up to race temp
does not have enough compression left
meaning previously combusted fuels re-cycle and make it fat mixture

Send piston/sleeve to RayAracing and run it again.