352LikesNOVAROSSI Engine thread....
07-13-2012 | 07:34 PM
#3406
Hi Guys,
Newbie alert. I have a Plus-4 Tuned (my first nitro exprience), with now about 6L through it, and so far it is running very nicely. There is talk through this thread about replacing bearings, rod, and even p/s/r. While I understand the value of engine maintenance and that it extends the life etc, I am trying to understand the value proposition of the various replacements against just buying a new engine.
The 17011 front bearing is ~$30, so no issues with doing that
The 16800 rear bearing is ~$50 (16801, ceramic ~$100, is it worth it?)
The R7 rod is ~$50+
So far up to ~$150. For an engine worth only ~$250, is it worth it? I'm not trying to throw money away, just trying to figure out if the outlay extends the life by enough, with good enough performance to justify it, as opposed to buying a whole fresh engine.
Is it worth just putting a new front bearing in now etc. How do I know when to put these new bits in? Typically how many times do people replace these through the life of an engine?
Sorry for the newbie questions, just trying to learn. And while this thread has lots of talk of these topics I didn't see a post that really answered these questions (apologies if there is one)
Newbie alert. I have a Plus-4 Tuned (my first nitro exprience), with now about 6L through it, and so far it is running very nicely. There is talk through this thread about replacing bearings, rod, and even p/s/r. While I understand the value of engine maintenance and that it extends the life etc, I am trying to understand the value proposition of the various replacements against just buying a new engine.
The 17011 front bearing is ~$30, so no issues with doing that
The 16800 rear bearing is ~$50 (16801, ceramic ~$100, is it worth it?)
The R7 rod is ~$50+
So far up to ~$150. For an engine worth only ~$250, is it worth it? I'm not trying to throw money away, just trying to figure out if the outlay extends the life by enough, with good enough performance to justify it, as opposed to buying a whole fresh engine.
Is it worth just putting a new front bearing in now etc. How do I know when to put these new bits in? Typically how many times do people replace these through the life of an engine?
Sorry for the newbie questions, just trying to learn. And while this thread has lots of talk of these topics I didn't see a post that really answered these questions (apologies if there is one)
also be sure to maintain air filter system very well , even double and triple checking for any areas where dirt can come in , use lucky7/airseal to seal up all areas in air filter body that are questionable . do not overheat engine , up to 270 (ish) is just fine for novarossi engines , as long as you can see smoke youre good
keep plug fairly fresh , make sure your fuel delivery system is up to snuff as some manufacturers fuel delivery systems are less than desirable causing some hardddddd tuning that is not the engines fault really , i'm sure there are a few more tips i am forgetting i really feel castor oil is verrrrry important in playing a factor in engines longevity , synthetic oils work to a certain extent and will provide a different performance feel but castor is a must , especially important in the break in process and forming the piston/sleeve fit , this is something that doesnt happen properly with synthetic oils
hope this helps
07-13-2012 | 08:40 PM
#3407
Tech Adept
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 135
From: Brisbane
17011
All though it has probably been said a million times, I think it's important to mention that with the 17011 bearings, you will need the spacer shown in the video by Someone when replaceing existing bearing with 17011.
Here is his link
http://youtu.be/gdt2luUlbuI
Here is his link
http://youtu.be/gdt2luUlbuI
Last edited by shimano; 07-14-2012 at 02:07 AM.
07-13-2012 | 09:19 PM
#3408
Tech Master
iTrader: (47)
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,807
From: Virginia
All though it has probably been said a million times, I think it's important to mention that with the 17011 bearings, you will need the spacer shown in the video by Houston when replaceing existing bearing with 17011.
Here is his link
http://youtu.be/gdt2luUlbuI
Here is his link
http://youtu.be/gdt2luUlbuI
That video is from Neal at CRE, not Houston.
... 
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07-13-2012 | 09:26 PM
#3409
Tech Elite
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,445
From: Canada
I don't think Houston wants to live in Winnipeg. The mosquito's and blackflies will carry you away. Never mind it's so cold in the winter time. It does have Timmies which offsets some and summers are wonderful. Neal can fill in the rest.
07-13-2012 | 10:20 PM
#3410
All though it has probably been said a million times, I think it's important to mention that with the 17011 bearings, you will need the spacer shown in the video by Houston when replaceing existing bearing with 17011.
Here is his link
http://youtu.be/gdt2luUlbuI
Here is his link
http://youtu.be/gdt2luUlbuI
btw, the novarossi bearing tool kit is concaved so there is no need for this
I have changed thousands of bearings and much prefer using heat and crank for install of bearings , no need to freeze bearings either
07-14-2012 | 07:44 AM
#3413
but in stock form its fine.. been running novas for years without any issue except for my own doing
07-14-2012 | 08:36 AM
#3414
its not an issue... you can run it as it is in stock form.. don't know about modded... i think some of these guys mess with the compression ration and case volume and so on.. so it may affect it.. I'm not sure...
but in stock form its fine.. been running novas for years without any issue except for my own doing
but in stock form its fine.. been running novas for years without any issue except for my own doing
i know what i can and cant do Btw , the onroad engines have these "vacuum ports" , rpm's in the 50k range , not an issue , you tell me
07-14-2012 | 09:03 AM
#3415
07-14-2012 | 09:32 AM
#3416
Novarossi didnt develop this bearing for no reason
07-14-2012 | 09:55 AM
#3418
a) your tune is not blubbering rich as this fills the crankcase with extra oil and with crankcase pressures running from negative-positive in these lil micromotors the oil will get pushed out and sucked back in dirty , go figure
B) you properly break in the engine with out leaving the engine rich as crap on lsn
understandable right
The issue might be coming from detuning an engine by leaving it blubbering rich cause it has too much power when tuned to 100% race tune , its possible right ?
07-14-2012 | 10:03 AM
#3419
Any bearing will suck dirt , that i will say is correct , the 17011 will last a long azz time if
a) your tune is not blubbering rich as this fills the crankcase with extra oil and with crankcase pressures running from negative-positive in these lil micromotors the oil will get pushed out and sucked back in dirty , go figure
B) you properly break in the engine with out leaving the engine rich as crap on lsn
understandable right
The issue might be coming from detuning an engine by leaving it blubbering rich cause it has too much power when tuned to 100% race tune , its possible right ?
a) your tune is not blubbering rich as this fills the crankcase with extra oil and with crankcase pressures running from negative-positive in these lil micromotors the oil will get pushed out and sucked back in dirty , go figure
B) you properly break in the engine with out leaving the engine rich as crap on lsn
understandable right
The issue might be coming from detuning an engine by leaving it blubbering rich cause it has too much power when tuned to 100% race tune , its possible right ?
the issue is more prominent when the engines are run lean....The issue would not happen if fuel is pooling enough to be leaking out, as then the crankcase would have enough fluid to make a proper hydraulic seal...fuel is good to have here........... the issue is the sealing area between the crank and the case is being sucked dry, which causes the engine to be unable to make a proper hydraulic seal, which in turn results int he engine breathing thru the bearing.......... The issue is air is passing into the engine due to a pressure differential between the two sides of the bearing...... which in a perfect world there should be no pressure differential on the 2 sides of the bearing.....
However at the end of the day it comes down to its a dam good choice to change out the stock bearings on these engines... sometimes the stock bearing runs perfectly fine, other times they will never run correctly with he stock bearing.........not worth the headache, best to change it out right off the bat
07-14-2012 | 10:41 AM
#3420
in my findings of the last 8 years or better of really understanding and paying attention to what/when/where/why these micromotors do what they do (been around them for longer) i have found EVERY SINGLE time that a front bearing lost its ability to do the sealing it does do and yes it does do some sealing in our offroad engines within a short period of time being new and breaking in it has ALWAYS came from being too rich on the lsn for the most part , call me crazy but i do believe i have a VERY good understanding of micromotor mechanics and thats what i have found .
castor oil is a must in fuel , novarossi designed these engines to originally be ran on a fuel with 100% castor oil and no synthetics
front bearings get dirty , if you see wetness around your front bearing you will just about be guaranteed to have a dirty front bearing internally , i clean my front bearings in my personal RACE engines every so often just as routine maintenance , completely disassemble the bearing , clean EVERYTHING down to the balls ( ) , reassemble and reinstall with a little heat of course
castor oil is a must in fuel , novarossi designed these engines to originally be ran on a fuel with 100% castor oil and no synthetics
front bearings get dirty , if you see wetness around your front bearing you will just about be guaranteed to have a dirty front bearing internally , i clean my front bearings in my personal RACE engines every so often just as routine maintenance , completely disassemble the bearing , clean EVERYTHING down to the balls (
) , reassemble and reinstall with a little heat of course