that sucks dude...

[QUOTE=Semple;10810342]Which fuel?

4-5 gallons on your nitrotec if pushed hard is good

Tip: do not run your engine out of fuel , just dump the tank

No more rusty engine that way

On a new team plus 4c with break in done and 1 gallon on it rear ceramic bearing is trash and front bearing is leaking like a cive.

1airborne

you get it from me?

Somethings not right there.....

[QUOTE=Semple;10810342]I'm at 6 gallons of Bryrons 30/11 and mine looks great inside other than a little rust on end of crank front bearing does drool a little but it is a 17011 and thats not really a issue holds a tune and idle. I love my Nitrotec it's the reason I bought another Nova a Btta which to me is very similar but smoother with a little more top end. I do add 2% castor to the first gallon and run it thru before I race tune my Novas and after 6 gallons on the Ntec it's still is a little tough to turn over by hand and a awesome back-up for my Btta.

[QUOTE=houston;10810769]That had been with Byron 30/11. I did push it hard and I do dump the tank rather than running it out. The engine was bad for the last 2 gallons or so. Didn't want to run. It would go a 5 min qual running amazingly and then flame out as soon as the run was over. Just would not idle at all at race temp. I believe it to be the rear bearing. No rust, by the way. Same behaviour with Losi/Nova plugs, OD plugs, Nova plugs, etc.

Probably going with a 21-4c now.

if any of these engines came from me , i will do what i can to help you guys out for sure

just gotta lmk

Just pulled my stock btta bearing out and installed a 17011. Gotta put everything back together now. I don't think the stock bearing was going to give me any issues anytime soon, but I had some down time and wanted my plus 4 to have the bearing it was supposed to have. by the way I just checked the Nova website the other day, and the parts breakdown still shows the 17011 for the btta and 17012 for the btts.

Monty nice work on the sleeve. 2 gallons of byrons 30/11 and motor has a nice build up of oil, no rust, and carbon on the piston and button. Like Monty says just dump your tank and the end of the day and store the car with the nose pointed down and all is well

So what front bearing does the NitroTec come with and how can you tell the difference?

I had about 2-3 gallons on mine I would guess.I think a repinch and a set of bearings will buy me another 2-3 gallons its my second one this year that started acting up within about the same amount of time.Engine runs cool compared to my Orion engines.I don't think it has seen over 235 f. Super smooth,great fuel milage and plenty of power for the buggy.

If you were going to put new bearings in a Nitrotec what ones would you use?

Also running Byrons 25% / 11%. I did find very slight signs of rust/corrosion on the crank and rear bearing.I was running it out of fuel at idle after dumping the tank at the end of every race day.

thats what I always do straight after the engine comes off the track whilst its still warm with the glow starter in to burn off any fuel. the a few drops of after run through the top and carb. is this procedure still ok or is there a better way

Do you run it weekly? If so, you don't need after run oil. I use sidewinder fuel and with it you don't need to use after run oil at all. Plus after run can kill plugs. Just let it idle out after the race day like you do and you'll be good to go.

Not in Denmark. We have to use after run oil. Guess it has something to do with humidity.

Personally I don't like taking of the air filter and plug on a dirty car. I put ARO in a 5 ml syringe with a piece of fuel line on it. Run the engine dry of fuel, and take off the fuel line on the carburator. Try to restart it with the glow driver attached until there is no more ignition. Put the syringe on the inlet nipple. With fully open throttle I press 0,75 ml ARO in the carburator. Turn the engine several seconds on the starterbox with both closed and WOT. Add 0,75 ml ARO through the carb and turn the engine on the starterbox again.

Now, you've oil all over the inside of the engine. You can store the engine for years without any problem.

Downside: After a few weeks, the AFO can get a little thicker. When you then starts the engine, it will run very lean. Solution: Turn the HSN 1 turn out and run the engine for a few minutes. Suddenly it will richen up (the ARO has been washed out from the carb) and you can turn the HSN back one turn.

Life is simple

Just dump the fuel out of tank and leave it , otherwise you are running all the oil that the fuel has in it out

No more rust

True that Monty. I have let a engine sit for 6 months with that method and not a spot of rust.