here you go the pic is taken by the comp so it might not be to good .

its the stock carb that comes on the rb s5.

O.k this is correct. As you turn the screw inward (clockwise) it pushes against the throttle thus opening the gap even further. As you screw it outward (counter clockwise) it releases pressure against the carb. slide and closes the gap.

This is normal operation.

ok thanks yea maybe my eyes are playing with me lol.


what about this pipe on my s5 it looks like and sounds good and the price is very good yea i know its not hard coated.

Thunder Tiger 3-Chamber EFRA 2035 Tuned Pipe (Long) w/Manifold
[TTR9796-1]

I have a Killer 10 combo with the 2045 pipe, what run times can I expect from this setup ??? I know its a open ended question, just looking for ball parks???

Hey guys
I just bought my first RB motor the B11 and cant wait to get it. I just have a question about the possible runtimes from the motor. i will be running and rb 2045 pipe in a mbx6 and just would like to know if with this pipe and motor i could make 10 mins with the right tune? any other tips for run in and stuff would also be handy.
Thanks in advance

I have never tried one of these pipes. If your looking for a good deal the Dynamite 053 and 086 pipes work pretty well on your engine.

With the right tune you will be able to do a 10 minute pit, BUT... You will have to give the engine a gallon+ to fully breakin before you start getting good fuel economy. One thing I have noticed with locals that also run RB's is that the Mugens drive train is not as smooth and free as some cars so that will hold back your mileage a little compared to cars like the Kyosho, Losi, Agama, and JQ.

Did you order the new combo that comes with the new 2087 pipe? That pipe will help you get better fuel mileage when compared to the 2045. If your going to try to use a JP pipe or something the chances of a 10 minute pit are not very good.

Also remember the heat gun is your friend. If you heat that thing up every time you start it up untill it no longer has any metal pinch it will last you a very long time.

Sorry man, that is an engine I have never used. I believe we have a team driver down south that is running the engine so hopefully he can chime in shortly and let you know what his run times have been with the engine.

Thanks Chris

That is only the case because they don't maintain the bearings the way they are supposed to. I have an MBX6 and lube the bearings after every other race day but i clean them out with WD40 after each race day through the holes in the hub carriers. I have timed my drive train after a quick rev of the motor and shut it off and it literally spins for 45+sec with the stock bearings.

But anyway, I have the Shark 10 which is practically the B11, with the 2045 pipe and can do 11:30 pit stops.

Hey all,

Got a new RB B 10 enigine (the motor box) and I was wondering if anyone got some good needle settings available?

Kind regards

Daniel

Mugen MBX6, RB B10 - Efra 2045

I replied to your post in the offroad section a little bit ago.

No they didnt have the new combo on amain so i just bought the motor as i already have a 2045 pipe. yes i will not attempt a 10 min race tune till break in is fully complete and motor has lost mechanical pinch. What should i heat it up to before starting and what temps should i run it at for the first few tanks?
thanks

Try to heat it up to 200 before starting it. Once you have it going even for the first few tanks try to always keep the temp up over 200 degrees. After the initial 5 or 6 tanks you may notice the temps getting up around 240 ish even when kind of rich... That is fine!! If it starts creeping up to 250+ you will want to richen it up a bit.

killer 10
 

Dan-o between 8.5 and 9.5 minutes with that combo.

Thanks Garret!!!

+1, but why the richen it up if it reaches 250. If this is during break in than fine. But if not, nitro motors are NOT BUILT TO RUN AT A SET TEMP. THEY ARE BUILT TO RUN AT A SPECIFIC AIR/FUEL RATIO. If that means that your temp is at 280 then leave it, don't richen it out to get a "safe" temp because you won't be getting everything you can out of your motor. Mine runs its best at 265-270.

ok thanks for all your help guys. Oh and will this be fine for run in. just 2 half tank intervals at idle keeping at 200 then between tanks cooling for a few hours at bdc then after that slowly driving it around increasing amount of revs each tank while still letting cool between tanks and heating before starting it?

PS know of any online rc sites that sell a temp gun?. i will try amain.
thanks

That breakin will work out just fine for you. Really it's whatever is easiest for you to be able to heat cycle the engine and thats what will happen with your described method. Keep the temps up around 200 and you will save a lot of wear and tear on the rod.

When I used to breakin my RB's without pre heating I always had to replaced the rod at the 3-4 gallon mark. Now that I preheat I run the same rod for the life of the engine.

Alrite, just when you say 200 are you talking farenheit because im degrees over here? :lol:
Thanks

Yes I was referring to Fahrenheit, sorry. Look for 95 Degrees Celsius as a number to preheat, and keep temps over that as well.

45 seconds :rolleyes:

ok thanks chris you have been a great help. :cool:

I put the 2087 pipe on with the 7mm oval venturi this weekend. Header was the 198.

Run time went from 8:30 to 10mins on my WS9.

I found the low end a little tricky to tune with the oval venturi but it was worth it. Definitely recommend the combo.

I have been running the Oval venturis and 2087 as well and I really like the powerband in my engines with these. Tons of torque, better fuel economy, and very smooth and easy to drive!!

Is anyone looking for a nip 9863 pipe and header set? Long square header

hey guys.. i have been racing for a while now but i am thinking about switching motors and going to RB.. what is/are the popular racing enignes for a buggy.

For buggy I suggest you go for the B11 or the X11. The B11 is going to have more overall power and for me has also seen better fuel mileage so far. Might just be that I push the X11 a little harder than I have to push the B11. Both are great and have plenty of power for a buggy. You should also get the RB 2087 pipe with it right off the bat, this pipe is a great all around pipe with good mileage and power.

Hey guys, my new motor arrived today and i will be starting run in soon, but ui remember reading back in this thread something about the b11 and os plugs. Can i use OS plugs or do i have to buy rb plugs from america all the time? And would just a p4 or p5 be the go?
Thanks Mitch

I do not recommend putting OS plugs in your RB. If you want to use an alternate I would go for the O'donnell plugs. The OS plugs have a different taper on them and don't fit quite as good. If you already put an OS in it you are going to have to keep using OS plugs or get a new head button as there is a good chance an RB or O'donnell will leak now.

Do you know this for a fact or are you just listening to all the brain washed people telling you that OS plugs don't work.

All the guys at my track including me that run RB use OS plugs and they do not have a different taper than the RB, OD or Werks plugs, the OS is the most popular plug in the world and there is no way in hell that they have a different taper than the rest of the plugs out there.

I do know that I had someone stick an OS plug in one of my engines right before a qual started because I did not have any plugs in my pit bag. That button to this day will leak around the plug no matter how tight the plug is. To me they look different enough that I will stick with what is made for it.

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/w...alta/plugs.jpg

I agree with you Chris, they will strip out the head button quickly also. They do not seat properly in the combustion chamber, for efficiency.

Yeah the distance from the small part of the taper to the large part of the taper on the OS plug is visibly shorter so the angle of that taper also has to be different... It may not be much but it can't be the same IMO.

I wonder if the displacement of the part of the plug that sits inside the head is the same or different between the two.

Meaning, would it impact compression at all?

It wouldnt impact compression, just the burn space would not be 100%, thus, less explosion in the combustion chamber, possible reduced power.

Hey guys
Just tried to begin run in and a have a few questions.
I pre heated the motor with my heat gun to 95 degrees celsius then turned on car and everything. I then blew in the air line to prime the motor and tried to start it. But everytime it starts the motor revs while the servo is at neutral and the carby isnt even moving. It revs pretty high for a few seconds then just drops back to an idle for 1-2 secs then stops. After this only way i can get it to start again is to prime once again and then it does the exact same thing revving high and then idles but stops.
I tried changing all the fuel and air line but it didnt change anything and also tried raising the idle a bit but that didnt help either.
any help would be much appreciated.
Mitch

There's more qualified guys here to comment but I'm on the thread so I'll try to help. It sounds like the low end is way too lean or it's sucking or blowing air. Maybe try this:

Have you had the head off? Make sure that it's tight and the glow plug's tight too.

Check the low speed (and all needles) are to factory setting.

Double check none of your hoses are leaking.

If you've got a fuel filter on it, take it off and see if that helps.

If you have a cigarette handy hold it around the engine and pipes to see if it's blowing or sucking smoke in anywhere. This always highlights an air leak.

I changed all the fuel line. but just looking at the motor then and the bolt that tightens the carby to the motor was loose so i just tightened it and hopefully that was the problem.
Thanks Mitch

Yeah, if she was sucking in air after the carby that'll do it.