Is this the bugger? http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...A-086-Polished

Thank you both!

That 086 pipe is very old school, that will not connect to your current header with the springs like it should. I have not seen an 86 RB pipe in quite some time... Novarossi makes a 9886 that will work good for it. Dynamite has an 086 but I think the Nova one performs a little better. You will notice a drop in fuel economy with the 86 pipe tho.

Clutch with RB engines.


I know that historically RB engines really liked a late clutch such as 1.1 springs and carbon shoes.

With the newer RB engines, such as the B11 or Shark 10, what would be a good starting point for the Ascendency clutch on these engines?

That stiff clutch setup was with the square stroke engines and the older heavy cars of the past. I run a JQ car with a B11 and Ascendancy clutch, I use the steel flywheel with 2x .9 springs on carbon shoes and 2x 1.0 springs on Alum shoes with the stock gearing... My car accelerates very very well and I have never felt I needed to get more snap out of the engine.

I also have the X11 and that has the exact same clutch setup and it too has more than enough punch. If you end up on a super high bite track you may want to try the 1.1 springs on the alum shoes and the 1.0's on the carbons but I could not see myself needing it honestly.

Also with that steel flywheel your clutch shoes last a long time!!!!

Speaking of the new F11...how is that engine? I've heard a couple of times already it's a good truggy engine. Same power as the B11 then?
It has a reasonable price tag from what i've seen.

I have not ran the F11 myself, but I think I finally have my B11 and X11 fully broken in for the season so I will get an F11 next to try out. From what I understand it should be more powerful than the B11 tho.

Ok, last question from me. When should I replace the rod on the WS9. After 2 gallons or about now?

Normally, you don't have to replace the conrod. Our engines are design to last very long. I have a B11 that did a bit more than 5 gallons without changing anything! There is not so much compression now, but the bearings are still fine, same as the conrod!

The F11 is definitively a monster!! On the truck, we are always a bit struggling because of the weight of the car. But with this one dude, you will fly!! I ran Silverstate with this engine on my truck, and even with the 7 ports sleeve and aggressive crank, I could go over 11 minutes!!

I would suggest you go with a colder plug also, that OS P3 is very hot, and will make the engine run hotter also, you could try the P5 or the P7 OS plug, or even with the Odonnell 97 plug, they work well with the RB engines.

What header pipe would you recommend with the 9886 for a WS7 III. I have a RB 198, 192, and a Novarossi 41021. My current setup is the RB 2045 with the 192 header. Would a 9886 give even more top end than the 2045/192?

When I ran a WS7 I always liked the 9886/198 combo to get good bottom end, but it still had more top end pull than I could use on most straights. I am pretty sure the RB headers back then were also closer to the shape of that 41021 Nova header you have so you should give that a try since you have it. You will notice a decline in fuel economy with the 9886, but it will make more power than the 2045 with about the same bottom end but more top end!

I am running a rb c6 engine in my mbx6. I have the 2045 pipe, which header should I use that will also fit in the mbx6 chassis.

01353-192P is the compact header that was made to fit the MBX-6.

01353-198P 01353-204P these are also the compact headers and will work if you want some extra bottom end.

thanks!

Anyone use the RB starterbox? My Ofna truggy box just died after 5 years and I need a new box. Does the RB have the torque to turn over new engines and not shred the wheel? Thanks!

Inventory Clearance - Ebay/RB Products USA Shop
 

Hello Guys!

If you want to buy a cheap 2010 RB engine, you can go on our new webshop. Go to EBay store and go to "search for a store" and put : "RB Products USA".

You will see, we are doing our Inventory Clearance so find our 2010 products on this website. That's cheaper!!

That's only the beginning for the webshop we will put also engines with pipe.

Please let me know if you have any question!!!

Julie

..
 

I will be at the Georgia Championship Series this weekend if anyone wants to come take a look at the killer 10 first hand. Finally broken in all the way...:)

Just got mine in the mail today, man are these works of art!!! Can't wait to try them out tomorrow, will let you guys know how they perform.

NICE!!! I should get mine today, so it will probably snow tonight.

Quick question what is the most powerful RB .12turbo engine with a Std. crank? The V12 000420? Thanks

New tune pipe 2087?
 

Hey guys and gals has anyone got the new tunepipe i think its the 2087 and if so hav ya seen any improvement in fuel econamy and will it give any of the older engines more econamy like the C5 C6 shark9.
Cheers for any feedback

Jamie

if anyone looking for new B9 with used 2045 pipe. $300 shipped
[email protected]
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y93...m/a44f619c.jpg

These things are AMAZING!!!!!!

I noticed a bit of increase in torque, but it is so much smoother and run time did increase slightly (7.5min-ish to 8min on a break in tune). I am never going back to the normal ones EVER!!!!

In my mind, the best new innovation since the silicone filled crank. :nod:

So as i was doing some post practice day maintenance, i noticed that the air inlet tube was torn, so i took it apart and there was a bit of dirt on the ventury, i opened the motor up and there was a small amount of what seemed to be like sludge on the piston, so i cleaned it out with motor spray and everything seemed fine until i checked the pinch, i can turn the motor over by hand but there is still some pinch, the worrying thing is that this motor is only about 3/4 of a gallon old.:cry::cry::cry:

Is this motor ruined or is it still good?:confused:

I would say yeah. It only takes a small amount of debris to ruin a piston and sleeve. Once u run it and get it up to temp u will notice the tune will be off and it will run hot.

But that's the not so worrying part about it, i have to idea when in the day it happened and it was idling fine and holding the tune all day long with no problems.

A worn out piston and sleeve will usually run fine when first started but will not want to idle or have any torque when at temp. If it runs fine...don't worry about it.

I took it apart cleaned it, put it back together and idled it for a 1/4 tank and everything is looking fine, but the real test will be tomorrow to see if it holds a tune when i'm at the track. I'm pretty sure it will be fine cause the idling was so smooth that all that probably happened was the brake in process was speeded up :lol: But the rear bearing did look like it had seen better days so i am ordering a new one for good measure, i'd rather replace it early that have it blow.

Did you pull the engine all the way apart? As in remove the carb and crankshaft and everything from the block? Tear it down like that and flush it our with some fuel, blow it out wiht a compressor, and flush with fuel again. That fine dust gets in places you would not imagine, and if you go and run it tomorow with some debris still in there you could finish off the engine for good.

After you flush it all out hold the block to your ear and turn the bearings with your finger, if it sounds crunchy or gritty you may not want to run too much. You can pull the bearings out and clean them up, but best to replace them.

I seem to get about 30-45 seconds more run time with the 2087 over the 2045. I like the power of it more too, it seems to make more torque but is still very very smooth.

Yes i did pull it all the way apart, but i used soapy water, brake cleaner, compresed air and WD40. The front bearing is still like new but the rear looked and felt like it would only last about another gallon or so, so i have a rear on order, should be here in a week or 2.

Thanx chris so it is better and i geuss with the better power band you could get even more eco depending on driving style.Which engine were you using it on as im told it works best with the B11 cheers.

jamie

Is this for buggy or truggy. Also what header

I have only ran it in buggy so far, and with the 192 header. I have one to run in my truck so I will try that next weekend with the 198 header to start.

What are the factory needle settings for a c6/b10

Hello Tix

The factory settings of your engine are:
Main needle: 3.5 turns out from closed
Bottom needle: 5 turns out from closed
Idle needle : 4 turns out from closed

These are just factory settings, and the final tuning will of course depend on the fuel, the plug, the clutch etc.

Also on the LSN and Idle screw make sure you have the throttle opened up ALL the way before you screw them all the way in. If you screw the LSN all the way in with the throttle slide closed you could very well damage the needle.

+1 On my shark 10 the factory settings were about 1.5 turns too rich on all needles to even start. With my fuel, plug, cluch and driving style i'm getting 13min on a tank :nod: and my track is like the Neo11 track.

thanks reno and chris
it been a long time since i rebuilt one of these rather than buying a new one