lowrider4life
 

hey guy lookin 4 a little advise.
will a orion 2013 or aplus 0801 pipes work ok on a RB shark-9 motor,

thanks,
carlton,

The 2013 will work pretty well on your Shark! Not sure about the 0801, give it a try and let us know what you think.

Hi, my old sirio evo4 was dead. I used 33% meccamo run my buggy, can I just use it to break-in my new B10 and B11?

Some people prefer to use 20%, but in my opinion it's not necessary. As long as you run it very very rich for break it in, the nitro percentage doesn't really mater, only the oil percentage will help you. So no problem with you meccamo.
Enjoy your new ride!

ok, there might be a problem with my rb s5 with the lg2 head well i got in broken in by a engine guy last year and this is my second season.

running, it i dont run every weekend im on my second gallon and it has enough "compression" it has lost its "tight pinch" on it but i still has enough pinch though i just checked it out today and it has a tick of play on the crankshaft already.

and, when i took my cooling head off and turned the flywheel where the "piston is up" i notice back and forth play im guessing that the bushing in the rod is shot already i dont feel it with the cooling head and the glow plug in though.

and also when i move the flywheel it feels easy to turn the piston up ?

it will tune still but not easy though.

im running 20% race blead ebmods fuel.

i never ran it to lean there was always a good amount of smoke :confused:

anybody know ?

What is needed to change from turbo plug to std plug on the Killer 10 engines??? just a button or a whole new head???

Hello tc5 man

Concerning your engine, you should have enough pinch and no play in the conrod after such small tracktime. Did you check your air filter? Maybe it eat dust... The best way to check it, is to pull the engine apart, and check the crankshaft. If it's all scratched (like you would use direct sandpaper on it) at the admission, the engine ate dust from the filter or the fuel, and it doesn't sound good... If not, check the crankshaft pin : if it's over 4.98mm you can still use your engine. If not, you will have too much play and probably break the conrod.

Feel free to contact us anytime

Hello dan-o

Why do you want to use a std plug??? You will get better fuel mileage, better performances, more RPM etc with a turbo plug!!!
You should maybe try RB N°5 plugs to open the tuning window if it's too hard to get the proper tuning, but I don't recommend to go back to a std button head!
If not, you can just change the combustion chamber to a std one.

Reno-

Thanks for the advice, I have been out of the hobby for a bit but always loved the way my S7 always ran back 6-7 years ago. I will take your advice on sticking with the turbo plug.

hum, well i always keep my filters cleaned and oil so that whould be weird so i just take the backplate off and get a calbrater and measure the pin or do i have to take the whole crankshaft out i never done that ?

the engine starts up right away and i used a heat gun on the engine .
i actually had to use my heat gun to start it up since it was sitting for while.

My steps on taking apart a motor.

Before you get started plug all the holes in the engine and thoroughly wash the outside of the engine of all dirt. Soap and water works well for this.
Remove the plug
Remove the head screws
Remove the head and carefully put aside the head shims to be re-sized later
Remove the back plate screws
Very important! With the piston at the TOP remove the back plate
Pull out the sleeve,do not use anything metallic! If the sleeve is stuck, with the piston at the bottom, put a wood Popsicle stick from the front top of the motor down part way into the exhaust port, then carefully turn the crank so the piston lifts the Popsicle stick up against the inside of the exhaust port, this will then lift the sleeve as you turn the crankshaft further
Pull the sleeve all the way out noting the orientation you will need to reinstall it later
With the sleeve out slide the piston and conrod towards the back of the engine with your fingers only.it should pop off the crankshaft. You normally do not need to force this and should not need any tools.
Note the front and back of the assembled piston and sleeve so you can reinstall it properly later.
With the piston/rod out you can slide the crank out the back of the engine.
You may need to tap it lightly to get it started.
Remove the carb.

If you sucked dirt/dust it will be in every nook inside the engine. I would suggest washing every part with soapy water really well. Shake off the water then brake clean it all. Then coat everything in either wd40 or after run oil especially the bearings and crank.
Reassemble in the reverse order and try it out.

How does the fire11 go for run time. I'm considering it for a truggy. I have been tuning a b10 and I know the f11 will get lessbut how much less?

The Fire 11 is a monster! It's the best motor you could find for the truck! It's delivered with a 9mm reducer but it's too much. If you use an oval 7mm, the fuel mileage will be around 10-11 on the truck, depending on the car, the fuel, the driving style etc.

Also, I felt that for the truggy, the fuel mileage is sometimes better with the F11 than B11, because you are pulling less in the engine, which can improve the economy.

I have a feeling the slop you are talking about is the rocking motion you will get when you put the piston at TDC. If you still have a slight amount of pinch when the engine is cold and the piston gets slightly stuck at TDC you will notice you can turn the flywheel slightly and the crank pin location may move from 11 o'clock to 1 o'clock when looking in the backplate opening.

If your rod is indeed bad you will notice you are killing glowplugs and the engine is flaming out. If it was running fine and was not killing plugs you should be fine. I have that same play you refer to in most all of my engines. If you always heated your engine I bet the rod is fine.

yup, that want it is its not eating glowplugs at least from when i raced last weekend and the engine never flamed out on the track it was staying running so it should be fine than.

yea, i heat the engine at first because my box cant turn it over but after that it starts up fine without doing that.

i will take the backplate off to see though if the crankshaft moves in that way your talking about.

i took off the carb and looked at the crankshaft and i dint see any straches on it from dirt or anything .

Ya you should be just fine then, you would be killing plugs and flaming out if your rod was shot. I read your first post again where you said it has slight pinch at the top so I would say it's 99% chance that the play you feel is what I mentioned and is totally normal. Once the metal pinch is all the way gone you won't feel that, as it will be a nice fluid motion.

thanks a lot. B10 is ready now for a race.

whats the difference between the shark10 and b11?
are they the same p/s/r?

Can any of you RB engine gurus tell me what the difference
is in the 01163-14 and the 01164-14B crankshafts ?

TIX: you are right, the B11 has got the same piston sleeve/rod than the Shark 10. The difference between those two are the crankshaft (different timings for better mileage and more torque on the B11) and the cooling head.

rageworks : the difference between those 2 are the weight and the timings. The 01164-14B is balanced on the plate with a small weight that the 01163-14 doesn't have. For more power, I would definitively go for the 01164-14B.

Hi there, the engine has loosened up nicely now, 1.5 gallons through it. I changed the gearing on the clutch bell (dropped a tooth) on the car too, it screams alright now but it's still running hot on an RB turbo 7 plug (135 celcius).

Should I pull extra the shim out? Will that help?

I know you guys had already recommended taking it out once it was run in but a lot of people are saying that with 30% nitro it's just too much compression.

I guess I just want to triple check.

TIA.

Nitrokiwi,

What are the temperatures like in your area of the world. Also the #7 plug is a colder plug.

As for running with 30% nitro, the instructions that came with the manual say to add 1 shim for 30% nitro, however here in the valley of california I have 3 engines, and several more from racers around here, that have never added the shim when running 30% nitro.

These engines are shimmed for 25% nitro from the factory and when you use the correct plug will run reliably for a very long time. Typically the #5,#6,#7 plugs are what are needed depending on temperature of your area. As for 30% nitro fuel I would personally not add the extra shim as I have had really good luck with 5 different engines going well above 9 gallons (I had one at 14 gallons and never even replaced a conrod that still ran when I sold it) on 30% nitro without having added an extra shim.

i, have a rb hobby 9 s5 and i run 20% im finishing off the rest of the gallon well i been wondering since people say that the engine is shimmed for 25% how do you think it would run removing 1 shim or is that not a good idea ?

im running a odonnell 77 plug meduim/hot.

Removing a shim in your instance will not yield any benefit in my opinion.

thanks il just leave all the shims on than .

It's hot here in Singapore, 28-32c normally when I'm running and humidity is never far of 90%. I'm pretty sure that coupled with the 30% nitro puts me in the 6-7 plug range.

I think I'll take the shim out. I'm convinced the shim is dropping compression to the point that I'm having to run too lean to make power.

If it doesn't help with the temps or power I can always put it back in to be safe I guess.

Thanks for the help.

Hi Reno,

Im contemplating rejoining RB after a few years away and i have seen the B11 at a very good price.

I will be running 30% fuel will i need to add an additional shim to the engine?

Also what pipe combo would you reccomend for the engine i race in the UK and we dont really have any large tracks with long straights so i would be looking for the best overall package. maybe also a high rpm package too for the odd track that is.

Restrictor wise i used to have a lot of problems with flame outs after fuel stops no matter what i did it i was told that the restrictor may have been the cause as it was the smaller one in use. Im not sure if it was true or not but thats what scared me with my RB no matter what i did with the tune after a fuel stop it would cut and annoyingly not straight away it would wait till half way round the track :lol::lol:

Thanks

Brian

Hi Brian

No need to put an extra shim on your engine, it will run perfectly like this!
The b11 is a really good engine, you won't be disappointed! You can buy the combo B11 with pipe and header, it comes with the new 2087P pipe and 198P manifold which is a really good in-between. For more bottom end, you can go for the 204P manifold, but still the same pipe.
As for the reducer, 7 is a good combination, as the fuel economy is awesome, so you don't need to go lower! I would also recommend to try the oval venturi, for more bottom end and even better mileage.
As for the refueling, as soon as the engine will ok (not too rich) in the bottom, and mechanic don't put fuel on the pipe, you will be fine!! I advise to do a small protection on your body between the tank and the pipe, really useful in summer!
Enjoy!

Reno

Hey guys, I seem to have built up a collection of RB's just lately and currently, Im running a K10 in my JQ with a 2045 pipe.

Ive just bought a WS9, and read that the OS 2050 was a great pipe this engine, or will I be better sticking with the 2045? Im looking punch at the bottom end really, top end isnt too much of an issue as the tracks I run dont have really long straights.

Thanks,
Phil.

what phil has said has prompted a question from me too (sorry phil)

I have a losi re11 pipe any use for RB engines????

No worries Bri ;)

Losi RE11 ---> OS 2050 afaik.

I read back in the pages of this thread that it was good for the WS9, no sure about the newer engines though?

Don't know about the pipe your speaking of on an RB engine, but your best pipe for the WS9 would be the 2045, if you want more bottom, use the RB 198 header, the WS9 isn't a bottom end engine, your K10 will have more bottom. The B11will have more bottom, as will the Shark 10.

The RE 11 is a good pipe for the OS engines, and the Ninja engines, the RB pipes will get you better fuel mileage, and performance, since they are designed for the RB e. The new engines, like the F11, and the X11, look to be good bottom end engines.

The X11 does have a pretty good bottom end but the B11 does have more torque as well as a more powerful mid to top end. I still don't think it has the top end of the WS7/9 engines tho. I am going to get the F11 next to try out in truck, the 1163-14 crank it comes with is the on-road crank and I have used that crank in a C6 before to get amazing bottom end that was actually too much in a buggy but great in a truck.

The 2045 is a good pipe but I have been running the new 2087 and that pipe is like a new improved 2045. I get better fuel economy, and it feels like I get more torque than the 2045 with just as much top end. You also have the option to use a 204mm header now to get even more bottom end if you need it.

Hey Chris, where do I find a 2087 pipe?

A-Main has them in stock as a pipe or pipe/header combo, and it is the pipe that will come with the B11 or X11 combo as well. The B11 combo comes with the 192 header and 2087 pipe and the X11 combo will come with a 198 header and a 2087 pipe.

call, me crazy i know usually on the tuning needles you go clockwise to lean and counter clock wise to richen . well on the idle screw it seems like going counter clockwise makes the gap bigger and clockwise seems to make the gap smaller :confused:

this is on a rb engine .

tc5 man, post a pic of your carb.