killer 10
 

I'm breaking my new killer 10 in today and tomorrow. I'm racing it at a big regional event this weekend. I will let you know how it does.

Thanks I would really like some info on this engine.any tracks around Chattanooga?

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Yea man. The Georgia Championships are in rossvile ga this weekend. Which is on the tennessee georgia border about 5 minutes from downtown chattanooga.

Cool may have to check that out.I'm about a hour away in Lincoln county.

Cracked block WS73 l2g
 

I was racing today and my engine bolts came loose and my block cracked. Does anyone know if a s5 or s7 block will work on my engine?

s7 should work, not 100% sure. I think I have block from a s7 in my parts bin, but it has atleast 14 gallons through it.

Any S7 should work,the WS7 was based on the S7.

wadauno?! youre old!!



































hi Tony , luv ya babe!! :lol:

:weird:

Thanks. I guess its worth a shot.

ill look, if i still have it I will send it to you if wanted as long as you pay shipping.

killer 10
 

Well the first weekend with the Killer 10 went great. I had about 10 tanks through it when I arrived friday for practice. The engine felt very good. I was running mugen carbonshoes with mugen 1.0's on my Durango. I got about 3 tanks of practice. Of course I got called in to work saturday so I missed all my qualifiers but the last. I finished 4th that round. Every run the engine got faster and faster. This engine has a very tight pinch from the factory. At first I was only getting about 6.5 minutes on a tank, but it was still very rich because I was still on the latter stages of break in. There were 125 entires. They used qual points so I was 5th in the C in Pro Buggy. I bumped from the C to the B, then from the B to the A Main. I ended up 2nd in the A behind Ryan Lopez. I was happy with my finish because I just was happy to race period! :) In the A it was getting about 7.5 minutes a tank so I was pittinf at 6.5, but it still has alot of metal pinch so it will definately come around mileage wise. I had many positive comments on how it looked on the track as well as the sound of the engine. Anyone considering the Killer 10 will not be dissapointed. Just give it time to break in properly. Im still running the stock plug, with the 2045 pipe and Powermaster fuel.

Thats cool man. Let me know and i can paypal for shipping.

Gas Cooler

Well I bit the bullet and bought a Shark 10 from absolute (price was AWESOME for engine/pipe combo) and it came with the RB gas cooler. In looking at the package for the cooler everything looks straight forward except what I can assume is the "dust guards". They look like they press into SOMETHING and have 1 or 2 solid nipples on them. Can anyone shed some light as to where they go and what they really do???

The shark is killer, from what you are talking about with a nipple at each end is the gas cooler, it goes between the tank and the exhaust, the pressure line. That is not the dust guard that you were describing.

no no no no. Not the big orange thing that looks like a fuel filter. But in the smaller plastic pieces. There are two of them. One has a nipple on one end the other has two nipples, one on each end. They are flat and round and look like a single round fin with small hole in it. These are what I would assume are the dust protectors but not sure how they mount.

They are fuel line plugs. I use the double plug when I remove my engine, to keep crud out of the lines. The single one on a small piece of line to keep the fuel nipple clean.

I need an RB expert . I have this ws7/2 and the carb is acting kinda funny. What carb can i replace it with? Thanks

RB's part #1258-9B 9mm or 1256-8 8mm carbs are good choices, so are the Novarossi's part #24063 9mm or 24060 8.5mm carbs.

If you can get the newer style B10, or Shark RB carb, they work the best, any of the new Nova Rossi carbs will work also.

only ones that don't fit are picco based carbs.

Is it true that a nova +4 connecting rod will fit a ws7 L2g.

No it is not true, the crankpin on a Novarossi is smaller than the crankpin on an RB. It is possible someone had an old engine with a worn WS7 crank and the Nova rod was able to fit on a worn crank, but I would not try it.

Thank u. I want try that. I just had a new +4 rod. I guess I will sale it and pick up an rb one.

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If anyone is going to be at the Battle of the Brands in Alabama in 2 weeks I will be there with the Killer 10. Feel free to come see me....:)

killer 10
 

I have a killer 10 with 7 gal on it, needs new bearing does anyone know the rear bearing size?

hi guys... I recently bought a shark 10 for my buggy... its the very first time I ran RB... would like to know what is the time to change the rod...

planning of putting ceramic bearings after break-in and the changing the rod at 4 gallons as I ever do with the os, werks and nova... by doing this how many gallons of fuel would I spec the engine to run 8, 9, 10?

thanks

After 20 tanks with the head wrapped do u guys pull the wrap even if there is still a metal pinch.

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Yes you can pull it off. But be sure to heat it up before every tank though.

rod
 

segreda...after it loses the metal pinch around the 2 gallon mark would be the best time to change the rod. Randy here you go http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Crank-Bearing

That sounds like a plan. I ran a 10 min practice, 2 seven min heats and. 20 min main and she came in at 206 on the exergen. I still had it wrApped with an exception of the top portion of the head. I also never stayed in the throttle more than 3 secs even on the straight. I love this motor in my truggy. So is everyone running 7.5 mm insert in truggy and 7 in buggy.

Hi guys

I always run 7.5mm reducer on my truck and 7mm on the buggy. The truck needs more power because of the weight, and I always feel that we pull to much on a buggy engine. I think you should try the F11 which is a 7ports on the truck, it's a monster! For about $280 street price, don't wait any longer!!!
Also, I use the oval restrictors on my cars to give more torque and better fuel mileage!

http://www.rbproducts.com/mainEn.php...duit=02011-001
http://www.neobuggy.net/images/News/rboval.jpg

thanks Reno - I have just seen these pop up on amain although they are backordered. when will they be in stock

cheers
Ben

It was shipped to them early this week, so it should be available soon!

Just ordered some from amain, fuel mileage here i come. :D

I have a WS9 engine that I’ve just broken in. I’m about 3/4 a gallon through it now. Used the heat cycle method and kept it rich. Only just started really trying to open her up.

I added a shim to the head, so it now has 3 copper RB shims totalling .4, because I run 30% nitro.

I’m running OS P3 plugs.

The problem is, to get the engine to perform at high revs I need to lean it out to the point that it stops smoking at high revs and starts running hot (260F). Otherwise it’s too rich and boggy, never really screams like I’m told it should.

This is my first RB engine and I don’t want to run it too hot because I’m told they should go nuts and run on the rich side. Should I pull the extra shim out and drop the nitro to 25%? Or do I just need to wait until it’s had more fuel through it?

What is the elevation where you live? Most people I know run the 30% without adding headshims. 900 feet it about the lowest I have ever ran my engines with no shim added and 30%.

At 3/4 of a gallon it's not all the way broken in, it will run a little warm and not very fast until it fully breaks in. So yes just give it some more time and it will come around... That engine screams on the top end!! What pipe do you have on it?

Also know that since you put an OS plug into the head button you should always run OS plugs. They have a different taper on them and change the shape of the head button causing the RB plugs to not seal properly. It's possible an RB plug will work again but it's a better possibility that it's going to leak.

Thanks for the reply!!!

I'm in Singapore. So sea level, hot (25- 30c) and humid as hell. It has the 2045 kit on it.

Ok will be a little more patient and see how it is after 1.5 gallons.

Thanks for the tip on the plug.

You think I should take the shim out or leave it in to be safe given how hot it is here?

I would leave that extra shim till it finishes breaking in. Then try pulling the shim out and run like half a tank and then pull the cooling head off and check to ensure there is no detonation or small pit's on the piston or button. I have seen a lot of people in here post that they run stock shims with 30% at sea level, but I have never been at sea level to try it myself.

The 2045 is a good pipe for the engine to help it get the best possible run time. If you really want to see it scream try an 086 pipe on it.

30% at sea level doesn't normally request an extra shim. For break in it's ok, but for maximum performance, it would be better to pull it out

Enjoy your new ride!