I put a new rb p/s/r assembly in it. It wasn't very snug when brand new. All my engines are modded. If you add up all the problems i've ever had with all my nitro engines over the years it's less than this engine has given me. I'm not saying the rb's are junk, that would be a ridiculous statement. In my opinion they are hands down better than novas. I have to tear the engine down cuz now it doesn't feel right when the piston is coming back down after tdc. It has some kind of strange drag on it. I bought a bottle of lucky 7 from Joe at the race yesterday and this doesn't compute since i've never had to seal an engine before. It already ate the 1st rear ceramic bearing a couple weeks ago when i was trying different carbs on it. It now has a new set of tko's front and rear. I'm gonna tear it back down again and get both p/s sets i have pinched, put the rb carb back on it and seal it up like a jackass. I will contact Uriah tomorrow and let him know what's going on since he's the one who modded it. And i will say if you are an rb fan and frown on Murnan Mods you don't what you're saying. He is thee RB specialist. A racing aquaintance had this engine before i bought it and always begged for my help to tune it. It's been a problem child for a while. Hell even my speed was a problem yesterday as the front bearing just falls outta the block now. I want to say that for maybe 2 min. intervals while warming up this engine was astounding. It was throwing my truggy around like it weighed 3 lbs. It's hard for me to believe a quality engine has an air leak but that is how it acts. I'm not buying the glowplug thing though.

Hey

I´d like to hear how you like your K9 or K10. How many Gallons have you through it? What did you change? What do you think about the performance?
And which pipes can you recommend? Is the 2045 the best?

I would be happy about any answer :)

Grinder knows RB's for sure.:nod: I would check the needle O rings and carb boot as well. It sounds like it may have sucked the element out of the plug and damaged the piston( I hope not ). Good luck with it.:)

It's never ate a glow plug and i've had the original carb, my nova fms carb and a speed carb on it.

I have had a WS7 III as well for over 3 years. I have done the same thing; bearings, seals, piston/sleeve, etc. I have gone the “new” P/S as well as the “pinched” route. I have also added a turbo head button also. When the engine is new/rebuilt and tight it runs awful; hot, no power, really does not respond to tuning very well. Almost the same symptoms as an air leak. The “mechanical pinch” from the new P/S generates a lot of heat as well a stress on the connecting rod. Take the glow plug out and spin the engine over. Do you feel any resistance at TDC? If so you still have “mechanical pinch”. A fully broken engine will not have much if any resistance at TCD. Like Chris said, after about 1.5 gallons to 2 gallons that baby will start to wake up! It happened to me this past weekend. The WS7 III was running so poorly I almost did not run it. Then during practice Friday night and Saturday morning it started to wake up. Buy the time the qualifiers started it was one of the fastest buggies on the track and it was still not in full race tune. I had forgotten how fast this engine is! I even got 10 minutes on one tank of fuel. I run an O’Donnell T97 plug, Byron’s 25%, RB 2045 pipe, and a RB 192 header, 1.0 clutch springs, Ascendancy Racing 4 shoe clutch, and a 7.5 restrictor. At Chris’s suggestion, I went to a larger spur gear to help the low end punch. That was the ticket! Ever since I switched to O’Donnell glow plugs I have not had any glow plug issues. I run them in my Novarossi Plus 21-4C "TEAM" as well with great results! I highly recommend them. They are cheap as well.

If your engine is good for the first two minutes then goes bad you are WAY to lean, these engines should be rich and slow for your first 4 laps or so. Maybe your right and I don't know what I am talking about.... Good luck!

Bad idle
 

Interestingly enough, I put in new bearings when I rebuilt the engine.

The font bearing apparently went bad.

Nice.

Replaced with a new one and so far, idle problem went away.

Bearing leaked through the double seal.

Take off one seal and you can see light throught the other (Surprised the seal

actually stayed on, flicked off with my fingernail)

Hmm. I don't think I will be purchasing Protek bearings again. I was just testing to see how these would hold up.

Back to TKO. Get what you pay for..

Always liked that saying You get what you Pay for. Man thats the truth. Iv also had a few problems with protek bearing. Went back to Tko and Boca bearing if you got the extra penny some times and never looked back. Speedyrob

Now where was i? Not accepting defeat i tore the USA down and to be honest didn't really see anything out of the ordinary except low compression. As i stated before the new p/s/r assembly i bought from rb had the least amount of metal pinch new than anything i ever bought. I found that the newer piston fit very snug in my old original sleeve, really snug. After a lengthy conversation with Neal at Clockwork he suggested the block may have a hairline crack so i swapped it out with a spare block i had. This was one of the tightest engines i've tried to start. My ofna blue box with a pair of lipos really struggled. Took a while to break it in. I even took the speed carb off and went back to my fms carb(can't seem to locate the rb carb at the moment). Both carbs look identical. After break in i leaned on it a little and had the carb setup identical to where i raced the fms. It's manners are perfect. I ran tank after tank without shutting it off. Always idled nice, never leaned out and will do full throttle to full stop to full throttle time after time and never act up. Damn block was cracked. I didn't put any sealer on the engine and i still have the P4 plug in it from the race Sunday. I want to thank everybody for their help and suggestions. Sorry to Chris Peralta for aggravating the hell outta ya, lol. If anybody has a spare block they want to sell pm me please. The one i'm using had the locater pin broke off for the sleeve and a new one is in not in the original location causing me to put a new notch in the sleeve. That's a pain.

RB,s are super tight when new.

Too bad the new p/s/r i bought from rb wasn't. If it stays running well i'll buy another new one i guess.

P/S/Rod
 

I agree, I just stopped using a heat gun. I am a few tanks out of break in.
:lol::lol:

No worries man, this hobby can frustrate the hell out of people when things don't work right. I am pretty sure I have an old crankcase for ya. It's not a USA case but it will still work. I will look thru my stuff later today for ya and let you know.

Thanks Chris. I do alot of engine work for racers, so when my own stuff won't run it's not a good thing. When an OS block cracks it's always wet in that location, that's what threw me off.

Glow Plugs
 

Hi. Question Chris.

What is the best glow plug for an RB Engine? An RB Plug??

RB Medium N0. 6

OS No 8.

Odonnell No 77

McCoy No 9.

How about the Nove Rossi C6G??

For use on tight tracks, out side temp from 75 degrees to 100, fuel is 30 percent

Odonnell.

Thanks

No one?

RB #6 or o,donnell #97 for turbo plug. RB #6 or o,donnell #99 for standard plug.

glow Plugs
 

Hi. The RB Plugs are kinda hard to get ahold of.

Anything Else??

Also, which seems to last longest.

Thanks
:D

As far as a standard plug goes the threaded part of plug is too short on the OS plugs. The LC3 is the longer OS plug. Most people i know that run standard plugs use OD99's or other OD plugs. I'm not qualified to answer that question since i've never owned or worked on a non turbo plugged engine.

So now the C6 USA is running flawless everyday. I went to .3mm head shims. I have noticed it's tough to get the OS plug to seal properly as it seeps some around the plug but it damn sure runs well with it. Now i will buy the whole farm and switch to RB plugs cuz i don't like tightening it that hard. I will probably go down to .2mm shims since the murnan modified head button has 2 more small cuts in it to help with flame travel adding a small amount of volume. I'm used to running engines with raised compression with colder plugs. With the shimming being lower do i want the #6 or will the #7 work without being too cold? I live in Pa. and our tracks are close to sea level. Thanks.

The RB #6 or #7 will work.

i have my rb engine running with a p4 plug and runs fine

I would run the 6.

I would also run a 6 plug, with pulling out the shim you might also be good with a 7 but I would only try one of them. I pull head shims a lot as I am at a higher altitude and generally go from a 5 to a 6 if I pull a shim. If oyu do try a 7 let us know as I might start keeping some 7's around.

Thanks guys. Finally got in touch with Uriah. He said the nova C6TGC or
C6TGF is what he uses, can't remember exactly. Nova has all kind of crazy plug numbers going on. A local hobby shop has the #7 RB's in stock but not the 6's. I'll order some RB #6's. I was also told by Uriah that if the OS's seal ok to keep running them. If i knew for sure the OD99T's were cold enough i would give them a try. Now they have a 87T out??????? Oh the simple days of OS Speeds with P3's! What have i done?

The o,donnell #99t glow plug should work.

Generally The nova C plugs are for offroad use and F plugs are for onroad use.

C = Conical (Is there such a thing as non-conical plug??)
6 - wire
T = turbo
G - gold
F = Cold C = Hot (pin size and body)

You should think of C & F in terms of

O.S P3/4/5 vs OS RP6/7/8.

C = caldo = adjective for hot in Italian
F = freddo = adjective for cold in Italian

the OD99T's were all i ran for years. they are colder than an RB#7
now that i can get the RB plugs i am running them again instead

The USA ran like a mofo today at the track. It's so quiet and smooth with the 2045/192 on it that it seemed kinda week. Then i got on the track with some buggies that had modded engines and i realized just how stout it is. Coming out of a tight corner or at the end of the straight it was running the buggies over. Nice engine. It idles all day. Tomorrow will be a 180 mile drive round trip for rb plugs. This is a tough call since the P4 has been working so well.

If the P4 plugs are working good for you and your not killin em I would just keep running them. Chances are the RB plug is not going to seal in there correct anymore either. Glad it's running good for you, the USA is an engine I wish I could still get!!!! I did find an old crankcase laying around if you do end up needing it send me a PM.

Thanks, Chris. I need it but i've been off work for 2 weeks cuz of my leg. Let me get caught up cash wise. One of my friends has a nib usa he wants to sell.

anyone looking for a brand new b9? email me at [email protected]

Anyone got an old C6USA they dont use anymore and would sell off?
PM me

hey guys and gals, I have a tm 523, got it with my revo, it also came with a vantage carbon fiber pipe, any of you ever had this combo?

whats a good plug and pipe for a k9 running in truggy with bryons 30

RB #6 turbo plug or o,donnell 97t. RB 2045 tuned pipe

Perfect, you beat me to it, depending on the track size you race on, 192 header for big/long track, 198 for short track.

i have a rb hobby 9 (s5) lg2 with the lightweight orange head its the stock head i took off the cooling head just to check something my question is does the hobby 9 print face toward the engine and the rb print faceing in the back ?

Go to rbproducts.com. should be able to see a picture on there site.