alright i looked at the manuel on the website so it looks like the hobby 9 print faces, foward with the small cut out on the bottom and the rb faceing to the rear of the engine.

CHEAP http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ne-w-pipe.html

Help
 

first post and new to the forum but not new to RC's, and well to make a long story shot i have a RB C12 that was bench-top broken in by myself and then is sat for years and now im back into it and am having problem with it running.

just put a new RB plug in it, and as soon as i take off the glow plug starter, it dies, leave it on and it runs. i do remember that when i was breaking it in i didnt have to leave the pluge hooked up. also what should my starting settings be on the carb.?

please take it easy on me. (still relearning all the RC terms) when i went to get the rest of the missing parts for the rest of the RC i found out how much has changed since i lasted ran RC's.

Have the HPI MT Racer and the C12

THanks :confused::confused:

is there a dynamite pipe that might work or how bout the orion 2065? rb pipesare alot of cash -almost like a ninja or os- never knew

You will get different opinions but I can tell you the 2045 RB pipe and header is the only way to go.

RB 2045 Best tuned pipe for RB engines.

Air Leak
 

Chris I have a weird one for you..


Well, here is an interesting issue.

I have rebuilt 2 engines. ;)

One, and Axe Rossi and the other is a RB WS7. :cool:

Both are doing something they didn't do before. :cry:

Both when reaching about 180-190 degrees will idle high.

AFter blipping on the throttle, it might come down after 5-10 seconds

If I rev the engine high, it will stay kind high for some time. 20 seconds maybe

Temps are around 230 when running on a tight track.

The engine didn't do this when I was breaking it in.


I have done the following: :weird:

replace all fuel lines.
sealed both carbs.
sealed both back plates.
seal adjustment nut to hold the carb on the block.
lubed the o-rings on the carb with silicone. (lite coating)

both have had front bearings replaced.

Nothing works.

Fuel tank doesn't leak.
Fuel tank seal looks like it's in good condition.
Tank doesn't leak when turning upside down.

Any idea what it might be?? :weird:

Orings in the carb maybe?? :weird:

What fuel % and glow plug.

If it is doing it on two engines that sounds like something in the fuel or exhaust system to me. Are you using the same header and pipe on the two engines? If so I have had issues like that when there was a tiny crack in the header. Could also be the rubber exhaust gaskets. Do you happen to see any air bubbles in the fuel line?

Well I know you said you put a new plug in it but it sounds like that plug is also bad. It does happen from time to time that plugs are bad even brand new. Try another new plug and that should work for ya.

Engine issues
 

Well, the Fuel is Odonnell 30%

Each engine has it's own header/pipe.

Glow Plug. Both are standard plugs.

1 is a OS No. 8
I think other is an RB plug. Not sure of the number.

sounds like the lsn is rich and the hsn is lean

Engine issues
 

Hi. Can the lack of a good gasket be an issue??

I don't think my gaskets are in bad shape. Fairly new, but,

what if the seal was not good. I was just thinking of possible issues that

might cause a leak.

Needle issues
 

Hmm. On both engines??

They broke in without a problem..

It's possible they are both just out of tune as well. If your rich on the LSN your idle gap is most likely open too far which can cause the high rev followed by dropping down. I would suggest on the RB that you open the throttle ALL the way and hold it open, close the LSN and then back it out 5 turns. Close the HSN and back it out 3.5 turns. Now pull off the air filter and remove the venturi from the carb and set your idle gap so that it's open about the thickness of a credit card (between .6 - .9 mm) This will probably be rich and will want to load up and die so lean the LSN till it will idle good. Now tune the HSN till it runs well up top. You may need to make some more small adjustments to the LSN and possibly the idle but they should be small adjustments.

Yes if those exhaust gaskets are bad you will have all kinds of tuning issues. That is the biggest issue I see people having at my local tracks. Many times the gasket between the header and the pipe is soo bad you can see oil has leaked and the header and pipe get a lot of buildup at the connection.

Leaks
 

Well, I have no leaks one either engine.

I think maybe it's on the o-rings. That's the only think I can think of..

Leaks
 

Aluminum washers on the Carb are crushed.

Maybe that could be it??

Well those washers are crush washers, when you tighten the HSN they crush and seal. If they are leaking you will see buildup around the HSN where they seal. I would really try to retune the way I suggested a few posts back. It's got to be either a tune issue or a fuel system issue.

New RB shark 10
http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/news...p?storyid=9007

Shark 10
 

Go Rinard.

:sneaky::sneaky::sneaky::sneaky:

Config
 

Does anyone have base line needle settings for a RB Worlds S7?? :cry:

Thanks

stock settings:

LSN: 5 turns out from flush

HSN: 3.5 turns out from flush

Turns out
 

Would that be turns from bottom??

I think 5 turns from flush would put the needle out.


right??

Settings
 

Hi Chris.

It looks like settings are from bottom to out.

Buggy started really rich. Needed to lean out, but, that was the trick.

Idle issue has not gone away, but, it's no where as bad as it was. (Idles high

after engine is up to temp and engine is being reved. Stayed high for some

time, now it drops almost immediately. 1 - 2 seconds off) Wish I could say

the same for my Rossi engine. That puppy will stay at high rpm when you let

off the throttle. If you use brakes, it comes down. Go figure. (Hmm.

Clutch maybe?? Doesn't die if you stop though)

Might be the clutch

If using brakes brings the idle down then your trims are not set correctly and when you go to neutral your throttle is not closing all the way.

Trim
 

Well, that's what I had already suspected. I see the linkage upon getting off the throttle goes to newtral, but, either the carb doesn't close all the way or the spring on the linkage isn't closing it. If I push the spring further, then I won't have any brakes.

If I push the linkage rod connecting to the carb, then it closed. I have spacing on the backside of the linkage for the carb, but, the space is only taken up slowly upon closure unless I use the brakes.

The linkage rod seems straight, the linkage plastic piece that holds the rod seems clear. The carb doesn't seem hard to close and it's all in a straight line.

But, it closes slowly at the very end. I'll check the servo. maybe there is some
slop in the gears which would only give full movement in one direction.

Check to see if your servo horn screw is loose, the locking collar on the outside of your throttle may need to be spaced out from the servo.

That is exactly what your problem is. That spring on your throttle bar should be tight at neutral and should push the throttle closed at neutral, if there is any slop in that spring you are not set up properly. If you give your radio a little brake trim this should move the throttle arm in the direction you want, if it starts to engage your brakes when you do that you may have to adjust your brake collars so they are not engaged when your at neutral and the throttle is being fully closed. If this fixes your issue you should set your brake trim back to 0 and make the adjustments from the subtrim setting in your radio.

Killer engines
 

Hi.

What plug, shim, nitro percent, pipe and header do you guys use with your Killer engines in a buggy?

Thanks in advance :nod:

I don,t run a RB k10. Though i recommend using a RB #6 turbo plug or o,donnell 97t. 30% fuel. RB 2045 tuned pipe.

You can always peek in the JL .21 thread in here as they are basically the same engine. A lot of guys have been trying different pipes and head shims in theirs but I have not kept up on what people like the most.

Throttle spring
 

Well, I've been doing this little standard trick with the spring since I started

with nitro in the 90s. Anyway. what I am finding is that the shaft is not sliding

quickly enough to close the throttle. The shaft is straight and the hole where

the shaft mounts on the servo horn is also free. Looks like the carb is not

allowing itself to close quickly. If I push with a finger, then it closes quickly, but

if I close with the servo, the linkage stays out and slowly goes back in.

Hmm. I'll readjust my servo horm to be 1 slot off and that way I can put more

pressure from the spring without loosing brakes.

Chris
Are you coming down for Bryons at the Pit this week.

Thanks guys.

I´ll check that thread :)

Man I wish, I just had surgery for a hernia and it really put me outta commission!!! I did not expect it to lay me out like it has. My daughter lives in Anthem, Az tho so I will be making several trips out there this winter!!! :nod:

Sorry to hear of your surgery, it's not fun, I had that, about 10 years ago, what a nut buster! Good luck.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...e-Return-Bands

Find them much better than throttle return springs.

i have a question about sealing the carb on a rb im using lucky 7 sealent are you supposed to seal above the carb o-ring or the bottom ? i used the sealet on the top and slided on the o-ring while it was still wet not dry and mounted the carb. i only used a little bit of the sealent.