You can run an odonnell 97 plug, they work well with rbs, rb 6or7 is a good choice also, stay with stock shimming, it sounds like your having carb leaks, try to pick up the newer style rb carb, with the idle adjusting screw on top, the rb buggy 9, or a shark, the older style has the idle screws on the bottom side. Go back with the rb 2045/192 pipe, others tend to run hotter, and less fuel efficient. I have had rbs modded, had better performance and longevity with non-modded rbs.

The lower the number, the hotter the plug, 6 is hotter than a 7.

ok yah The #6 is hotter than #7.

i run a total of .3 of shims

the OD97 plugs work very well in this motor but if RB plugs are available run them
if its over 80 degrees out run a #7. i always run #7's but a #6 will be easier to tune

Mine sizzles inside with .3 shims. Just tried that today. I must have an airleak.

Do you know what the shim sizes are? You can spray nitro cleaner or motor spray around the carb, or back plate, pinch bolt, if the engines dies, thats where the air leak is. check back plate seal also.

I had .3mm shim in it, or .012" USA language, lol. I guess i should call Uriah about this one. I'm about ready to slap a standard C6 head button on it if i can't get it straightened out soon. When i broke it in it had .020" shims in it and didn't get any hotter than 235 deg and come to think of it the thing was sizzling inside that day when i cut it off.

What %fuel are you using.

30%

The engine or the fuel tank might have an air leak.

This is the only engine i have with problems. I'm gonna add shims tomorrow and seal the backplate. Never had to seal an engine before. All the o rings look great. This engine has a break-in and 1 day of racing in my friends buggy and hasn't functioned properly since. And come to think abt it that's when i went from .020" shims to .012" shims because somebody else that raced one told me the RB manual said .012"(.3mm) was the proper shimming. OS is so much easier, lol.

It sounds like have an air leak

if you dont want it ill be glad to purchase it off you

dont , give up on it i have a rb s5 and im on my second gallon and somehow got it to run and start and run about 235 @.

i run the stock shims because i run 20% ebmods race blead.

its pretty fast.

runs good !

0.20 shimming is proper shimming for 30% fuel.

Does the engine still have good pinch on the piston and sleeve? If you only have a break in and one day on track, it's not totally broken in yet, get your shims straightened out, and be patient, engines will tend to run hotter till fully broken in.

It's broken in. I took it to the track at least 10 times only to put one my other engines on for racing since the RB wouldn't function properly. I'll get some lucky 7 tomorrow and put shims back in. I keep hearing a OS .25 calling my name! Pain in the ass Italian engines, lol.

It should run better with 0.20 shimming.

Took shimmimg to .020" and ran out back for a bit. Way different engine. Had to readjust carb and it was acting very nice for a change. The true test will be tomorrow at the track. Thanks everybody for the help.

ok im new to rb engines just ran across a great deal on one and got it it a c6 with the Rick Brakes Mod on it does anyone know what temps it should run at if so that would be appriciated thanks

220-260

If you have been running OS plugs in your head button you have probably damaged the button and it will never seal right with an RB or Nova plug. You might have to get a new turbo button to run RB plugs again as the taper is not the same. The way you describe the engine going from good to bad after 5 minutes is very strange and seems like it might be an air leak of some sort when up to temp. I also agree with Nitronut about getting these engines modded, the C6USA is already a modded engine and when someone is grinding on a crankshaft or sleeve with a dremel it won't take much of an oops to make a stud a dud. I have also seen with most modded motors I have helped people with that the tuning gap ends up very very small, and when they are tuned right there they are amazing but when they are off they struggle. If you are at sea level the C6USA should pull your truck around very easily. I run at 6,000 ft and my USA is a ROCKET in truggy.

I shimmed it back to .020" and it runs well now. Somebody gave me the wrong info about the head shims. I'm sticking with os plugs, they have worked very well in the 3 nova based engines i've had. I don't know about rb plugs but nova plugs have been a joke the last 2 years at the track. And you're correct, once you go to os plugs you have to stick with them because they alter the taper at the plug seat. It's not like you can find a C6 USA head button anywhere, so os it is.

You can stay with the OS plugs, but go to a colder plug, rather then the plug you have been using is way to hot for the rbs, you can use like an A5, that hot plug you have used will make the engine run hot. You can use, i think the cross 10 head button, or if you have a old standard plug head button, you can use it.

the C6USA button is just a Rally9 or Rally10 button
You can still get them

They have the big cutout on the exhaust side? That was a Rody thing, didn't think they were available anymore.

Also the head button from the Shark is the same as the C6.

Damn sure is. 01082-R. Same p/n. I run P5 plugs in it. P4 if it's cold out. I'm not against RB plugs, they are scarce here. I can get OS plugs at taco bell's drive-thru, lol. P6's won't even keep my JP running cuz it's they're so cold and i'm only running .6mm shims in a motor that had .7mm in it. A 97t is hotter than a P3.

RB glow plugs do not have the issues that nova glow plugs have.

I said an A5, that's wrong, I meant P5, the P3 is a very hot plug, the OD 97 is more like a medium, what brand of fuel are you using?

I use a OD 97 on my B10 with byons 30% and it runs well even when it + 90's outside and humid as a mofo:)

c6
 

ok cool i think im wil like this motor i also want to know what Plug to run

RB #6 or a o,donnell 97

Fooled with this thing all day. I give up. Pulled it off just so i have a chance to finish a qualifier. I've had P4 to P6 in it. Very inconsistant engine. It showed signs of being an outright animal for maybe 2 minutes then it goes south. Compression is low now and it might have 2 gallons on it including break in. No more RB for me.

RB Issues
 

Hi guys and gals.

I have a problem with an RB Worlds S7. (Original)

I rebuilt the unit a few weeks ago.

Here is what I did.

New Front /Rear Bearing.

New P/S/Con Rod.

cleaned the case.

Installed the above.

sealed the carb/back plate.

Unit fired up with no problem. :nod::nod:

Unit was broken in with the breakin bible instruction. (First time)

Idled like a dream. :nod::nod:

Now. Here is where it gets interesting. :eek:

Finished breaking it in No problems. Idle still no problem. I live in higher

altitude 4400 feet above sea level.

First time out, I went to Revelation Raceway this weekend. (First time racing

there. Nice Track, great owner) :nod::nod::nod::nod:

Would not idle for anything. Wouldn't die either. (Good thing)

What I meant is, when it's cold, (just starting) outside temp 100 degrees, the

engine is fine. idles great, when the engine comes up to temp (180), it also

raised its idle. blip on it, it might come down, it might not. Tends to stay

that way even when running it. Temps are I think around 240.

I suspect the front bering might have gone leaking. Some oil on the front of

engine. Not bad, but, some.

It's not the tank or fuel line. When the mains came up, I missed 2 laps of my

race because I was swapping engines. The backup engine didn't have

idle issues or anything.



Any suggestions. ?? :confused::confused::confused:

What glow plug are you using.

Glow Plug
 

Hi. I don't know if you were talking to me or the other conversation.

OS No. 8.

RB,s don,t run good with os glow plugs.

Try using a RB or o,donnell glow plug.

Glow Plug
 

Hi.

I would believe you, but, why when breaking in the engine, I had no idle problems at all.

Even after I return home, the engine does the same thing.

Not to mention, why would the glow plug allow the idle to change ??

I have never heard of this.

BTW, put in an Odonnell last night. No change. Same thing.

If you really only have two gallons on it the engine should barely be getting broken in. If it is already low on compression something went wrong during break in because any of my engines with 2 gallons on them can't be turned over by hand when the engine is in the car. I do understand you being frustrated but you can't say it's the RB's fault when you bought a used engine added a new piston and sleeve and then had it modified.

When you put a new rod, sleeve, and piston it in did you also replace the wrist pin? What you problem sounds like is what the engines do when they are stillnew and tight. These engine take 1 sometimes 2 gallons to fully break in and when they are tight like that you have to run the idle a little high or it will get stuck at the top and die on ya. at 100 degrees outside 240 might be a little rich still but thats actually good if your still rich. These engine take so long to break in it really isn't a good idea to do a break in of 5-10 tanks then take to the track to race it. Most times I have seen people do this they run them too lean while they are too tight because they want max power now, this wears out the engine and you will loose compression FAST.Try getting out for a practice day and just run it and run it and run it and you will notice it will get faster and faster the more fuel you burn thru it.