The throttle trim might not be set right.

oh wait, i did have it a 20 % to the right on the throttle trim by a mistake but i did set it at 0 and i was having, a problem with the idle not coming down when i hit the gas it whould come back down than it wouldnt but i tried to slow the idle down so it must be the lsn too rich than.

but i am checking my clutch.

Ok make sure there is no broken clutch springs.

yea i will im going to buy some new ones.

im going to replace my clutch bearings i need to replace them anyways.

Replace the clutch bearings , springs and shoes if needed then reset the idle gap and the throttle trim. Then if the engine is still having that problem lean lsn a little.

well i know im going to have to reset the idle gap i will check the clutch shoes but i think there fine there not old really not even a gallon on them.

but im defielty getting the 53 pipe though.

Once you have your idle gap set right you just need to lean or richen the LSN till the idle is right. In general if your LSN is in from flush your too lean. You should run rich and somewhat slow for the first 3-4 laps and slowly get faster and faster as it warms up. These are cold blooded engines for the most part.

ok i got you i need to do the tuning more on the track than do bench tuning with the lsn . there is plently of smoke coming out of the pipe when i warm the engine up .

cold blooded engines ?

so with the idle about 1mm like the thicknest of a credit card ?

Yep about the thickness of a credit card but you MUST remove the carb restrictor to do this. If you set it with the restrictor in it your gap will be too big and your going to end up rich on the LSN to compensate.

I actually prefer to bench tune so you know you have it close before you get on the track. After you have the Idle gap set fire up the engine, if the idle is high richen the LSN, if it won't stay running you need to lean the LSN. This will get your LSN set good enough to start tuning the engine in. Now blip the throttle for a minute to get some heat in the engine. Once warmed up give it full throttle, you want the engine to rise in RPM's nice and fast but only max out at about 80% of the max RPM's. If it really screams and does not stop climbing you should richen it up. Once you can hold full throttle and it gets to max RPM and stays at max and does not continue rising your HSN is close. (When I say hold it full throttle thats only like 2 seconds max.)

Now when the engine goes back to idle after that full throttle hold what the idle does will tell you what the LSN needs. If it immediately drops to a nice steady idle and stays at the same idle for 20 seconds then you got lucky with the first LSN setting and your good to go. If the idle stays a little high for 2-5 seconds then drops to a low idle you will need to lean the LSN. If it drops to a good idle for a split second then revs high again you need to richen the LSN. Remember that now as you tune the LSN in small amounts you may need to make very small adjustments to the idle gap.

Now throw it on the track and run... when I said cold blooded I meant that they take a while to warm up.. like 2, 3 sometimes more laps.

oh crap when i messed with the idle i dint remove the restricter now i know why you are supposed to . good info thanks !

il be racing next weekend so i will try that and make sure my clutch is ok too .

i am going to get the 53 pipe so i have to retune anyways.

here, this one i did good in yesterday in the sportsman truggy class and i told my dad today that my engine wasnt running right.. and he said well you did good why do you want to mess with it and i said it wasnt running right you dont drive it you wouldnt get it.

The 53 should help wake that engine up a little more for you. With the idle set right, and tuned correctly you will be much happier. It is for the most part a sport engine tho so it will never be super fast so don't try to get too much out of it and kill it.

cool yea i think i can get it tuned better yea i know the s5 wont be super fast but im only club racing and i can catch up with guys with race engines inless i just drive better than them . its fast enough for me


for club racing i dont see the point for a race engine.

i love it when my dad says you were finishing good the whole day why are you going to mess with the engine well i told him your not the one driving it so you dont get it.

Glad it's working for ya!! Take care of it and it will last you a long time. I had an S5 for my first buggy engine and it lasted two full seasons and over 15 gallons. It was my first engine so it never had a rod or bearings replaced.. only glow plugs.

i looked at the 53 pipe and its says its a mid range pipe ? im pretty sure the s5 is a mid range engine but my track is fast flowing layout and its a big track .


now about takeing the carb residicter out when you adjust the idle now if im on the track and i have turn the idle down i would have to shut the engine off and take the residicter out to turn it down ?

nevermind i looked at the other dynamite like the 007 that is a torque and mid range but i would have to gear up a tooth for te top end.

053 tuned pipe will work good. You can adjust the idle while engine is running if you had to.

oh ok yea chris on this tread the team driver said to take the restricter out to adjust the idle while im bench tuning it . so on the track if the main and bottom needle is set than while im on the track i can leave the restricter in if i have to make the idle higher or lower ?

he gave me a great bench tuning tips.

yea im getting the 53 pipe than i was just checking out the other pipes.
i was looking at the rb 2045 pipe but no manifold when its $105 :weird:

You should set the idle with the venturi out while the engine is not running. Through if you had to adjust the idle while engine is running you can.

ok got you.

Ya man, set the idle gap at home away from any dust. You only set that idle gap as a starting point, but you really should not have to move it much. Use the LSN to keep it running on the bench. Just follow what I posted and you will have it set very close. Chances are your going to have to lean the LSN a lot tho as you were most likely very rich to compensate for the high idle gap.

ok cool yea it was running rich on the low end because of the idle being to high but it dint flame out with the #77 plug it did keep on running.

Pipe and number
 

Hi. Are all pipes rated the same?? Is an 053 from RB the same

configurations as an 053 from Dynamite? (Not saying Dynamite actually makes

one, just used them as a reference name)

Dynamite does make one and yes there is very little difference between different manufactures pipes performance wise. Some pipes will be thinner and perform better, but not last as long.

Answer
 

Well, I guess what I mean, is there some kind of guidelines that need to be

followed in order for a pipe to be called an 053??

RB Pipe
 

I have a few older pre-2001 pipes and they seem to be really banged up.

My JP-1, and 3 pipes don't seem to be banged up at all. No dimples like the

older pipes. Is this because the older pipes are thinner?

I have to put water in them seal them up and put them in the freezer to allow

the water expanding to ice to push out the bumps.

The older pipes were much thinner than the newer pipes, they generally will perform a little better being thinner but with all the new stuff always coming out the thicker pipes are making great power too.

I spoke with Ryan Cavaleri about pipes, resonating, as like with dirt bikes, he and his father did some research with that theory, and could not find any significant changes with think or thin pipes, or so little, it didn't seem noticable.

the more rigid the pipe, the better it reflects the pulses !

Pipe
 

You mean when the engine is pushing (pulling) fuel into the cylinder as the piston is moving up in it's stroke??

sticky carb
 

i have a k10 and the carb is sticking, disassembled and polished barrel oiled and was good for a q or 2 and bad in the main again, love the motor consistent good power under 200deg. what other carbs will work ??

None of the Nova Rossi Carbs, or OS Carbs will fit, the carb opening is smaller, not sure, maybe, Picco? If your carb is sticking, check your idle screw, it's maybe to far in, and will drag, if you took the carb apart, you could have put it back together 180 degrees from what it should be, that is possible.

Picco will work or carb off a JL will work.

i have, a question this was driving me crazy today during raceing my s5 runs good with, good punch with the 53 pipe and the idle isnt to high its about 1mm well when im on the track for the first few laps its fine. than all the sudden i start lousing punch.. likes its rich or something when it gets about in 200 s ? i did richen the low end about 1/4 turn and leaned the top about the same.


and when i pitted when i was on the throttle it sounded like a lean bog even though there was enough smoke ?

so is it the idle do i need to lower it when i go on the track about 2 to 3 laps ?

my gear mesh did get loose but i dont think that had anything to do with it .

dont read this question read the other double post i dint mean to do lol.

i have, a question this was driving me crazy today during raceing my s5 runs good with, good punch with the 53 pipe and the idle isnt to high its about 1mm well when im on the track for the first few laps its fine. than all the sudden i start lousing punch.. likes its rich or something when it gets about in 200 s ? i did richen the low end about 1/4 turn and leaned the top about the same.


and when i pitted when i was on the throttle it sounded like a lean bog even though there was enough smoke ?

so is it the idle do i need to lower it when i go on the track about 2 to 3 laps ?

my gear mesh did get loose but i dont think that had anything to do with it .

now my carb was sticking a little not bad though.

If the gear mesh was loose that could cause a problem. When the engine at idle does it act like is about to die.

oh when, its at idle its fine i mean when im at my pit table i go almost full throttle and than hit the brake and let it idle and it drops . so im guessing my gear mesh keeps on getting lose.. for some odd reason so i guess than it can make it like its lean bogging when i hit the gas while im getting pit ?

i guess so like i was saying its fine in the beginning of the race than after the gear mesh gets loose im guessing it sounds like it lean bogging like a rich bottom ?

The gear mesh being loose will not cause it lean bog.When refueling if spill fuel on tuned pipe that will cause it lean bog.

i dont think its a lean bog its just a bog it was doing it before i pitted when there was about 7 min into the race.

When you hit the throttle is it slow to take of.

not in the.. beginning of the race it does it later in the race it feels like i lose punch that might have something to do with the gear mesh or something ?

im pretty sure, the mesh got loose after some hard landings im using a king headz extented one piece engine mount and all the screws are tight and locktighted and the screws were tight .


its on my 1.0 t.