why are you sealing the carb.

just for extra insurance.

I would suggest you ask in the Lucky7 thread, I have never had to seal my engines. If there is a leak new o-rings fixes it for me.

well i dont think its a leak and the carb o-ring looks fine its a nova carb ring its thick but it dint look damage its not old. maybe should just remove the sealent than.


cdc on here said to remove a shim to run 20% with a hot/meduim plug what do you think of that will it do any harm ? the s5 has 2 shims on it already but it hasnt ran right with a meduim plug so i was thinking there was a leak.

the shims are .20 mm.

If you know the signs to watch for to know if your engine is pre detonating you can try pulling a shim. I would stay with a medium plug to start. The S5 is not a high performance engine it is more of a mid level engine. I have felt an S5 be somewhat underpowered in a buggy for my driving style so in a truggy it will never perform like a high end race engine.

Just know that you can destroy an engine if you run it while its pre-detonating.

its only on its second gallon so maybe i should just used the stock shimming than and remove the sealent or just leave it and run the #77 odonnell plug thats a meduim/hot plug. i only club race by the way

i never overheated it there was plently of smoke it just wont run right im thinking a meduim/hot plug will help with the 20%.

im using a all alum med shoes with all gold setup .

You should run a hotter glow plug with lower nitro %.

yea, im going to try that i did check my gas tank for a leak by the way and i dint see any bubbles and im replaceing the fuel tubing so im going to give it a try with the stock shimming on the head also.

The engine will run hot if there is a air leak.

i know it did have a lean bog when i turned the lot speed needle to richen it did the opposite on the track. there was smoke coming out of the pipe though.

well lucky i sealed the carb and around the high speed needle area.

You could try using a turbo plug button. To make the engine have more torque

oh, yea but i already ordered some things that i needed so i wouldnt get it in time for my race sunday. i do run a 86 pipe with the stock header but i will get a nova long header if i cant get it to run where i want it.


whats funny though is i won a few heat races with the engine not quite running right lol. but i did notice a tear on the gasket on the back of the engine so that can be a problem with the running.

RB 2045 is a better tuned pipe for RB engines than the 086 and the 086 is a high speed tuned pipe.

yea i know but i have to deal with what im running on sunday intill the next time. i do race on a fast flowing 1/8 track

my axles where binding and the drivetrain bearings were gritty so that can have a lot to do with it also.

The 086 tuned pipe is not a good tuned pipe to use with that engine for a truggy and a torn exhaust gasket will cause tuning issues and cause the engine to not run right.

yea i know but like i was saying i will get a diffrent pipe after this race on sunday . so for now im replaceing the gasket and fuel line and hotter plug it should run a bit better .


i do have enough torque to clear jumps.

ok It should run better with a new exhaust gasket if the old one was torn. What tuned pipe are you going to buy.

ethier the rb 2045 or the 53 pipe mostly luckly i will get the 53 pipe since its cheaper.

the main reason why the gasket got torned is because my pipe mount got loose and the exhast spring cut a slit on it.

The 053 should work good.

RB WS7
 

Hi folks.

Thanks for all of the imput in reference to helping me to get the old WS7 back on it's feet and out of the starting blocks with flying colors.

Here is my last little problem though. I think this one is a simple one.

I am running the engine between 220 and about 240 degrees.

I know I can let her run around 280,but, seeing is she is pretty new coming out of a full rebuild, I thought I would keep her kinda cool.

The problem is, bottom end seems a little soft. If I lean the LSN out some, I get the stalling effect. If I fatten it up, I get the high idle for a short period.

Any thoughts.

BTW, When she is about to run out of fuel and she goes really lean

Holy crap !!! :sneaky::sneaky::sneaky:
Her performance I would say doubles.. Burn outs, Lifting the front end

Stupid-crazy-fast Only noticed this 1 time..

Since you replaced the piston and sleeve I suggest you take your time, these take close to a gallon when new to break in and with a fresh piston and sleeve it should be the same. Try to keep your temps where they are for now and you will notice the more fuel you run the better it will perform. The fact that it feels a little soft on the bottom is it being a little rich and still tight, as you lean the HSN out when it breaks in you will gain power from the bottom to the top. You will want to use the LSN for fine tuning the idle and off idle performance, but if it idles fine for now just keep running it and try not to worry about a tune for a while.

http://www.rbproducts.com/mainEn.php...E01010-SHARK10

Interesting. Looks like the Shark 10 is nothing like the Shark 9.

B10 crank/case + revised 5 port with 1 exhaust. 198 header + 9mm restrictor.

Sounds like a truggy engine, wonder why they didn't do a balanced crank like they did for the shark 9?

I think next up is for me to stuff a shark 9 crank into a B10 and see what happens... Either that or a B10 p/s into a shark 9 guts.

Says here in the manual it's a 5+2 port with 3 exhaust (MES)

http://www.rbproducts.com/explose/RB...10-SHARK10.pdf

interesting engine :nod:

Well after braking in my K9, i never really used it after because i had a lean bog problem, i went a head and sealed up the back plate and fixed my issues, ran the motor this past week/weekend at the bryons fuel challenge and the motor was on fire. not even a gallon on it and she was ripping around. run time was a little over 8 possibly? never pushed it but was awesome. Was able to put the RB into the expert B main!

Engine Fat
 

The engine is still fat and temps are still in the 220 range.

I have about 3/4 gallon on it now. maybe a little more. I started with 1 1/2 gallons and I have 1/2 left. But I have been trying to get another engine running as well. Hopefully, it holds up. Otherwise, I might have to break down save for something more current.

I hope I can keep up with some of the newer engines out there.

Werks B5.

B9 piston break.
 

Had a huge wreck on our local track BIG jump which I'm sure we all have done. Continued on in the race and had a flame out 2 min after wreck. Thought that was strange so checked it out and found that the air filter had come off.(crappy cheep cable tie had broken). Pulled off back plate and removed glow plug to flush out engine with fuel and all seemed ok not really scratched or scored. Reassembled and seemed ok but kept flaming out. Got home and checked out the motor and found that I had screwed up on re assembly and it looks like I've done the piston skirt and back plate thing.:flaming::flaming:
Anyway, just want to know where the best place is to get a new rod, piston , sleve and bearings for a B9. And should I go ceramic bearings. Does anyone do a complete rebuild kit.

Bit pissed about it but on a good note the wife gave me permission to buy a new motor and the B10 is now run in!!:nod::nod:

a main hobbies for the B9 rebuild. Make sure you run 1 gallon through that RB B10 before you race tune it and always use a heat gun to heat it up before starting it. The RB B10 is a awsome engine.

Where to buy parts
 

I agree. Give A-main a buzz.

They ship quickly and stock

Buggy 9 did you say??

I checked stock, they are out.


here is there part number RBD01146-53] This the piston/sleeve/con rod.

Price is $169.00. Same price as my WS7. Cool.

Towers has it in stock.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXWDZ9&P=SM

Use a coupon and it could be cheaper than amain.

I don't know. RB always used the ports as a part of P/S #. ie. 01146-53 (5 + 3 exhaust.) 01146-33 (3 + 3 exhaust.) the p/s has a 501 as last part of the code on this thing. We'll have to see when it comes out :nod:

If you ever had a C6USA it will perform very similar to that engine. I have an on-road crank that is even more aggressive than the USA crank I run sometimes for truggy too. Overall I really like the Shark9 crank the most tho as I seem to get the best mileage with it.

alright i raced today with the #77 odonnell plug it defielty did run better and i dint have any flameouts at all and it give me a bit more punch. well in my, third heat my idle woulnt come down it was high so i went back to, my pit table and i tried to slow the idle down and richen the low end up a bit and it woulnt come back down to idle ? i think maybe i have a broken clutch spring or the clutch bearings went bad on me ? it was running fine during practice and a for a few heats.

by the way im getting the 53 pipe for sure now but would i have to go to a 50/14 gearing since thats a more torquey pipe than the 86 ? i was getting catch in the corners by some people because of the lack of torque.

Might be the clutch or the lsn is rich. Run the same gearing with 053.

yea, i will check the clutch as for the lsn it might be a tad rich or so but i forgot to mention that it would idle back down a little when i hit the throttle and than it wouldnt it so im thinking yea its ethier something with the clutch system or the lsn too rich.

sounds like the lsn is rich and not a clutch problem

ok it was just weird that the tune changed when i got off the track it was running fine.


i have a enough top end so i guess i have lean the low end needle out more when the weather changes a bit. but could lean the main needle a bit more also .

The tune will change if the weather changes. Lean the hsn some to.

ok i , will give that a try than when i was in the main there was light smoke coming out of the pipe by the way but the idle still was kind of high when i pitted during the main.

i have my dad pit for me so he doesnt know .

If there was only light smoke then don,t lean the hsn.

=cdc;8020957]If there was only light smoke then don,t lean the hsn.[/QUOTE]